Winter Project - Bottom end rebuild
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Winter Project - Bottom end rebuild
I am not too mechanical but I would like to learn to do bottom end rebuild over the winter. Good excuse to hang out in garage and drink beer. I have seen some good videos from Rocky Mountain talking about the basics of doing it.
Any suggestions or threads would be appreciated. I did search bottom end rebuild but did not find out that much. Maybe I should change my serarch terms.
Any recommendations on what parts I should order - such as gaskets, seals, bearings.
This motor is about 6 years old. I am the second owner. Comparing it to my other KDX that I got brand new - 4 years old - the motor vibrates a lot more. Really feel the buzz while standing on the footpegs. Thinking that crank bearings should be replaced.
Thanks for your time. Steve
Any suggestions or threads would be appreciated. I did search bottom end rebuild but did not find out that much. Maybe I should change my serarch terms.
Any recommendations on what parts I should order - such as gaskets, seals, bearings.
This motor is about 6 years old. I am the second owner. Comparing it to my other KDX that I got brand new - 4 years old - the motor vibrates a lot more. Really feel the buzz while standing on the footpegs. Thinking that crank bearings should be replaced.
Thanks for your time. Steve
WR sold. Now have 03 and 04 KDX 220s.
KXF 250 forks. RB Carb and Head. FMF rev pipe. Long live the KDX !!!
KXF 250 forks. RB Carb and Head. FMF rev pipe. Long live the KDX !!!
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- canyncarvr
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I think RB rebuilds cranks.
If you need a source for pounding in wedges and banging on a counterweight with a shot-filled hammer, I'm sure you could not do better...and he's right in your backyard!
Look forward to a write-up with lots of good pics!
Those pullers/splitters and such from RockyMtn. would certainly be helpful. A small press (something that a case 1/2 will fit into) is something that would certainly be of use. Beats mucking around with a vise.
Have you looked into the crankshaft jig tool to 'hold' the crank in place while you're pressing the halves back together? I'd sure want one'a those.
If you need a source for pounding in wedges and banging on a counterweight with a shot-filled hammer, I'm sure you could not do better...and he's right in your backyard!
Look forward to a write-up with lots of good pics!
Those pullers/splitters and such from RockyMtn. would certainly be helpful. A small press (something that a case 1/2 will fit into) is something that would certainly be of use. Beats mucking around with a vise.
Have you looked into the crankshaft jig tool to 'hold' the crank in place while you're pressing the halves back together? I'd sure want one'a those.
Consider the source
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Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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- Colorado Mike
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There is a crank install tool that eliminates the need for a press to get the assembled crank back into the cases and the case halves back together. Just make sure all the tranny shafts/shift drum are in the right places or you will probably crack the case when you put the squeezation to it.
Mike
Life's tough, it's even tougher if you're stupid.
'04 KDX220
Life's tough, it's even tougher if you're stupid.
'04 KDX220
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Good ideas guys. Yes, although I have never talked to the mythical Ron Black before I understand he is very close to my location. About 20 miles away. So he would be a great resource and his prices are always very reasonable.
WR sold. Now have 03 and 04 KDX 220s.
KXF 250 forks. RB Carb and Head. FMF rev pipe. Long live the KDX !!!
KXF 250 forks. RB Carb and Head. FMF rev pipe. Long live the KDX !!!
- canyncarvr
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Best to send him an email, I'd think. I don't know if I recall correctly that he rebuilds cranks..but I think he does.
Probably not a lot of reason to assume that the crank needs to be split..didn't mean to imply that it would be a GP approach if you're inside for a bearing replacement. It was an 'in case (ha ha) you need to....' comment.
That crank installer sure beats pressing the crank in. The crankshaft 'jig' tool (not what it's called..the name of it escapes me) I mentioned isn't needed if the crank is pulled into place, but only if it's pressed into place.
Probably not a lot of reason to assume that the crank needs to be split..didn't mean to imply that it would be a GP approach if you're inside for a bearing replacement. It was an 'in case (ha ha) you need to....' comment.
That crank installer sure beats pressing the crank in. The crankshaft 'jig' tool (not what it's called..the name of it escapes me) I mentioned isn't needed if the crank is pulled into place, but only if it's pressed into place.
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!
- Colorado Mike
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- Colorado Mike
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- Colorado Mike
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Nope, I wanted to, but it already cost me a bundle since the kid blew up everything. I had to put in a new crank, Piston kit, water pump seals and bearings, shift stop gizmo, all the tranny bearings needed to be replaced, plus a power valve which cost $168 with a discount .
Mike
Life's tough, it's even tougher if you're stupid.
'04 KDX220
Life's tough, it's even tougher if you're stupid.
'04 KDX220
- kawagumby
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I've put a LOT of hours on KDX's and never had a lower rod bearing fail, so I never replaced one, even through two complete lower end rebuilds on the same bike. I always replaced the crank bearings and seals. I guess what I'm saying is the job is a lot simpler if you don't split the crankshaft (unnecessarily).
1994 KDX200, Beta 200rr, yz125, yz250, kx100 modded for adult, gasgas contact 250.