Cannot Disengage Gear - KDX220

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Byte
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Cannot Disengage Gear - KDX220

Post by Byte »

i just operated on my kdx220 to find out why my kicker was not kicking over. I have fixed that but in the process somehow locked my clutch so that it remains in gear and cannot move it out of gear..

In this operation, I removed the clutch basket and removed the clutch cable from the clutch lever. Now, after putting evything back together again, I find the lever will not disengage from gear and is locked.

I don't know how to relieve this lever from gear.

Can anyone advise please?

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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

Sounds like you dropped the washer/spacer that goes between the basket and the clutch pack... very common mistake.
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Post by Byte »

thanks indawoods.

OK - I pulled motor apart again.

I can confirm washer/spacer that goes between the basket and the clutch pack remains in place.

Cable OK but return spring 92145 is unable to embed itself (or be centred around) the spring return bolt.

For some reason I cannot get the bolt to protrude above the return spring - maybe the plates on shift shaft 13161 cannot be lowered enough for whatever reason...

Help.

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Post by Byte »

thoughts?
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Post by Byte »

Image

here are some photos...

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Post by canyncarvr »

One more time, please?

You said, 'I find the lever will not disengage from gear and is locked.'

..meaning when you pull on the clutch lever on the handlebar, the clutch will not 'disconnect' the engine from the transmission?

And, 'locked' means....what? If the bike is in gear, you pull the lever, you try to push the bike, it's HARD to push and maybe the back tire drags?

That's normal for a KDX.


In your shift rod pics...you're saying the rod doesn't drop down far enough?

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Post by Julien D »

I also am unclear on what the problem is here. The clutch lever is stiff and can not be pulled, the bike will not shift from whatever gear it is in, or the lever pulls but the clutch does not disengage. Which problem are you having?
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Post by Indawoods »

Sure sounds like the washer issue to me.... STILL!
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

>|<>QBB<
Indawoods wrote:Sure sounds like the washer issue to me.... STILL!
How many beers have you had?
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Post by Indawoods »

Why.... I ain't got nun for U!
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

>|<>QBB<
Indawoods wrote:Why.... I ain't got nun for U!
Obviously you've had a few if you understand what the OP is saying :partyman:
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Post by Byte »

>|<>QBB<
Indawoods wrote:Sure sounds like the washer issue to me.... STILL!
As mentioned, I can confirm washer/spacer that goes between the basket and the clutch pack remains in place.

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Post by Byte »

>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:One more time, please?

You said, 'I find the lever will not disengage from gear and is locked.'

..meaning when you pull on the clutch lever on the handlebar, the clutch will not 'disconnect' the engine from the transmission?

And, 'locked' means....what? If the bike is in gear, you pull the lever, you try to push the bike, it's HARD to push and maybe the back tire drags?

That's normal for a KDX.


In your shift rod pics...you're saying the rod doesn't drop down far enough?
i can confirm the lever is now disengaged from gear and is unlocked - only because i removed the shift spring from the return bolt.

please ignore this locking issue.

the outstanding issue is now that i cannot get the return bolt to protrude through the shift spring - as shown in pics..

i cannot select gear because of this issue.

this is my only problem now and need your advice as to how i can get this return bolt through the return spring.

help?

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Post by Julien D »

Looks correct in the 2nd picture. You pulled it out and now can't get it back like it was in the 2nd picture?

Still confused. Perhaps I should drink more beer....
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Post by Byte »

OK - made some progress.

I am able to lock in the bolt into the return spring and happily select gears - with the crank case off though.

But, when I reinstall the crank case cover, I cannot easily select gears with the shift lever (on LHS).

It's like when I insert crank case cover, something impedes the movement of the return spring.

What is my next step to allow easy gear selection with crank case cover installed?

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Post by fuzzy »

Reverse engineer based on parts diagram in manual.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: 'please ignore this locking issue.'

Done.

Re: 'OK - made some progress.'

What exactly changed to make that happen?


Say this is true..or not:
You took the cover off to address a kicker spring issue, had trouble with the clutch on reassembly, took the cover/clutch apart again.

Why did you take the shift rod out?


To check for interference between the shift rod and the cover, use something like plumbers putty. Mold a ball of it over the part you think may interfere, put on the cover, REMOVE the cover. The putty will be squeezed to the thickness of the clearance between the parts and the cover.




The collar (92143a) under the spring (92145) looks suspicious in your pic to me. Is it completely under all wraps of the spring?



Also, check the collar (92152) under the shaft. Does it fit into the rod mechanism? Note that it is NOT simply a flat washer. I think it acts as a bushing to the shift shaft. Looks that way anyway.


Again...I've not had mine apart. Wouldn't matter if I had...'cuz I wouldn't remember it to the extent of being able to apply factual info to this problem anyway. :oops:

Oh...too many things for one post seeing as understanding just one is iffy...but there is a problem fitting the case when it comes to the kicker spring. It is VERY easy to knock the kicker spring out of place.

Jeb needs to chime in on this one.

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Post by Byte »

"Re: What exactly changed to make that happen?"
i removed shift spring, pushed in shift lever (LHS) and then positioned the return bolt through the shift spring.

"Re:You took the cover off to address a kicker spring issue, had trouble with the clutch on reassembly, took the cover/clutch apart again."
True - I removed cover off to address kicker spring issue.
Not True - I did not have trouble with clutch on reassy.

"Re:Why did you take the shift rod out?"
Shift rod was not pulled out.

"Re:The collar (92143a) under the spring (92145) looks suspicious in your pic to me. Is it completely under all wraps of the spring?"
Yes.


"Re:.... but there is a problem fitting the case when it comes to the kicker spring. It is VERY easy to knock the kicker spring out of place."
How do i know if kicker spring is out of place?
Case fits on OK.

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Post by canyncarvr »

Thanks for the item-by-item response. It's more helpful than everything said together!

"Re:.... but there is a problem fitting the case when it comes to the kicker spring. It is VERY easy to knock the kicker spring out of place."
How do i know if kicker spring is out of place?


The kicker lever will not return to its upright postion after it's kicked.


Re: Case fits on OK.

:hmm: Then maybe I don't understand this:
But, when I reinstall the crank case cover, I cannot easily select gears with the shift lever (on LHS).

It's like when I insert crank case cover, something impedes the movement of the return spring.
IF the bike shifts fine with the cover off...and that CHANGES when you put the cover on, then the cover most likely does not fit OK.


You missed one:


Also, check the collar (92152) under the shaft. Does it fit into the rod mechanism? Note that it is NOT simply a flat washer. I think it acts as a bushing to the shift shaft. Looks that way anyway.

There should be some marks on the spring stop (the bolt) where the shift shaft return spring has been rubbing for years. Is that relationship (spring to bolt) the same?




Maybe a by the way..but you cannot change gears when nothing in the tranny is moving. At least the rear wheel needs to be moving to 'happily select gears'.

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Post by Byte »

Thanks Canyncarvr for stickign with me... :-)

Re: kick lever return travel:
Can I test for this (return to upright position) with case cover still removed?

Your'e right on the case cover not fitting OK - I guess it's not afterall..

Collar (92152) under the shaft is checked and seems to be where it should be..

Relationship (spring to bolt) is the same when markings are observed.

Re: Rear wheel - atm it (and whole bike) is tied up to trailer so rear wheel is not moving or free to move. WOudl this make a difference - despite the fact that I can 'happily select gears' with case off still?

Byte
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