KDXRIDER.NET

Re: 'Does the method in the manual really work?'

I have a manual on the desk in front of me...but I don't feel like looking. Four days riding with Wibby complete with a double confrontation with The Law tired me out.

(Begging a question? Wullll...what's THAT supposed to mean?)



It wasn't KDX related, so don't worry 'bout it.

Re: KIPS..and 'major'

Define 'major'.

You can get the KIPS out without removing the cylinder. I've done it. But...it probably took more time and effort that I thought I might have saved.

If it's gunked up enough to need cleaning..then clean it. Correctly. If it's not and you're looking for something to do to it that will substitute for a good take-apart-cleaning..don't worry about it.

canyncarvr wrote:Re: 'Does the method in the manual really work?'

I have a manual on the desk in front of me...but I don't feel like looking. Re: KIPS..and 'major'

Define 'major'.

You can get the KIPS out without removing the cylinder. I've done it. But...it probably took more time and effort that I thought I might have saved.

If it's gunked up enough to need cleaning..then clean it. Correctly. If it's not and you're looking for something to do to it that will substitute for a good take-apart-cleaning..don't worry about it.

Manual says this:
"To clean the carbon deposits from the silencer, remove the drain plug at the bottom using a 12 mm wrench.
Warm the engine up. While revving the engine up and down, tap the silencer with a rubber mallet to dislodge the carbon buildup. Replace the drain plug and tighten it securely."

"Major disassembly" = removing the cylinder
I'm a 4-stroke guy, so all of this stuff is pretty new to me. The bike seems to run fine, good torque down low with a power hit higher up.

I'm aware of the drain plug and it may be useful for draining some sludge..but it ain't gonna drain no carbon buildup inside you bang off with a mallet. Maybe take the plug out just for giggles, see what comes out. You won't get anything out of it unless it's a huge mess inside.

My opinion and all...but if the bike works...if you have no reason to suspect the KIPS is a problem from either performance degradation or observation of its operation (you rev the engine, the shaft doesn't move)..don't worry about it until your next top-end, which shouldn't be years and years from now.

Not usually, anyway.

Well, I got my jetting dialed in this weekend. I ended up with the stock needle 2nd clip position (from the top), 145MJ, 42PJ, and the air screw 1.5 turns out. It's a little on the rich side, but I prefer it that way for piece of mind and to accomodate the wide range of riding we do here in Tennessee. On question, if I switch to the DEL needle should I go with the 2nd clip position? I would like to thank everyone for their help.

Do the DEL for smooth power, get rid of the stock needle and it will be easier to get the jetting correct. I ran a 142/40 w/DEL in 2nd position, and it was very crisp and controllable throttle response.

In the process of new top end for my 2003 KDX220 to replace the reported problematic stock piston, and it was acting a little non crisp. I can tell you at that jetting, the piston looked like it was right out of the box and new, on a 2003! If you take care of a KDX, it will plain last, very impressive. (Amsoil is great stuff) I think the biggest thing I found was the KIPS needing to be cleaned up, it was sticky, and I had left some gas in the bike too long that I believe messed with the carb.

Changing to Boyesen reeds and rev pipe in the process, so I will need to figure this out again. But once you play with it, you get pretty good at dialing it in.

Take the good adice of all these people who have done the testing for you. Keep the carb clean, and clean the KIPS when it tells you to, and you are good to go. Frequent top ends are not called for.

bmase,

thanks for the feedback. good luck with your top end rebuild. the reeds and rev pipe will really bring it to life. what gearing are you running?

have fun,

john

Stock gearing. I had a Pro Circuit Works pipe on this bike which is a really good exhaust. It just broke the rear tire loose too much with the stock gearing when I let it rip. It had enough torque to crawl up a tree. I did not put on the rev pipe because others had said not to do it with the stock piston. I had tried it and the bike was trying to seize. It was trying to pull harder, but I am not so sure it was doing anything other than make some cool noises. We'll see what happens with the Wiseco piston and new reeds, and I think I will get RB'd at some point.

Thanks to everyone for their help.