KDXRIDER.NET

I have a new clutch kit waiting here (plates and springs), how do i go about replacing the clutch on my 01 KDX220?

Do i need a gasket of any kind?

My bike was working great one day, and then all of a sudden no matter what it wont go. you can shift through all the gears but it's like the clutch is permanently pulled in, it just won't go!

BTW - i do have a cyclepedia, but i would love to hear it in lamens terms as the cyclepedia confused me a bit.

Pretty easy. You'll need a gasket unless you can remove the old one and keep it in good shape.

Remove the clutch cover. Take out the puch rod thing and its bearings (just pull it out). Remove the four bolts holding in the plate thingey and springs in (I apologize, I'm doing this from memory). Then you will be down to a big nut holding in the clutch basket. Remove that with a big impact wrench (22mm nut). Then the basket should slide out along with the clutch plates. Replace the clutch plates (soak them in oil first). Not too hard.

sounds simple enough, thank you!

Re: 'Remove the four bolts holding in the plate thingey and springs in..'

When removing/installing the bolts with the springs, always use a criss-cross, progressive method. 'Progressive' meaning turn each one only a little at a time..a couple of turns.

KNOW the torque value of those bolts, and use a wrench that can correctly apply that torque. They tighten to about nothing force-wise..and if you break/crack one of the bolt bosses, you will be out a LOT of $$.

There are TWO washers in the assembly...one of them VERY easy to lose. Make sure they are both properly placed on install...one under the basket, one IN the basket.

If you have an OEM setup, you will have two large diameter metal rings that work on the outside plate. One is a spring (it's curved) one is flat (spring seat). Put them back in place in the correct order with the spring facing the correct directon.

Re: '..soak them in oil first.' CRITICAL!!

I don't think you need to remove the basket (big nut) to change the plates.
Just the four bolts holding the plate thingey and the springs.

CC is right- lay everything out in order as it comes out; it all has to go back in correct order to work. I usually have to do it three times to get it right......

Let us know if this resolves the original problem of the bike not moving. I've never had a clutch plate wear problem cause the bike not to move at all. Slip a little yeah, but not allow you to go through the gears like that.

As an aside, my son once pushed his bike back to the pits at practice. When I asked him what happened, he said his clutch failed. I told him that really sucks, and to go back to the point on the track at which it failed, and look around for your chain. "We'll need that after we get your clutch fixed genius."

I'm sure you have a chain, just funnin'.

KarlP wrote:I don't think you need to remove the basket (big nut) to change the plates.
Just the four bolts holding the plate thingey and the springs.

That is so.

But....I'll bet'cha a donut there are basket fingers that need filing...and you can't know if that washer under the basket is in place 'lest you take it out to check.

There are some tips that might be helpful...........

Laying the bike on its side would be good when it comes to putting the pack back in. The two pieces (hub/basket) have to fit 'together' with all the plates. If you line up the friction plate tabs with the basket (hub not in yet), you will have trouble lining up the steel plates to the hub when you try to put IT in.

Vicey versa...if you put the pack together on the hub and try to insert IT into the basket, the friction tabs will have to be lined up to the basket...but that's a good bit easier to do 'cuz you can move the friction tabs with your fingers as you put the thing together.

In either case, it's easier to do with the bike horizontal. imo

If you haven't done it before..realize that it isn't likely to slip back together as easily as an old slipper onto your foot. Know what the end result is supposed to be (keep track/remember what plate goes in first, don't miss a plate in the sequence) and putting it together will be eaiser.

Laying things out in order is a very good idea.

...and don't miss the two washers!

...and don't forget..the plates MUST BE soaked prior to assembly. No, not coated with oil...SOAKED in oil. How long? Overnight is good!

Ha!...those soaked plates aren't easier to handle when it comes to stacking your clutch pack on reassembly! You can wipe them off, btw. They don't have to be dripping, soaking wet with oil..just soaked.

ze bikey does go!

Clutch changed and problem solved!

...with nothing out of the ordinary/out of place noted on disassembly?

Plates were worn to the extent it gave the effect of being engaged (lever pulled) all the time?

I wouldn't expect it could GET that bad 'all of a sudden'. ..that it would've BEEN slipping a good bit for a long time before it altogether quit.

Or...what CM already said.

Glad it worked out!

nothing at all out of place. Bike never slipped once.

Weird thing is the EBC springs came in a pack of 6 not 4... I hope i used all the parts i was supposed to...

Not uncommon to package parts in a 'more than one' fit configurattion. Saves the trouble of packaging for more than one application.

Do you have a static spring length measurement? How about plate thickness measurements?

Is your clutch lever harder to pull than it was with the OEM springs?

The end result is what you're after..something that works. Still, it would be nice to know what led to the problem in the first place.