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What I thought to be the carb leaking (in another post) turned out to be shock oil. Its leaking oil and is all squishy. I have a planned ride next Saturday and need this fixed. I found an 02 220 rear on ebay and the part numbers match up, I'd just like a confirmation from you guys that it will fit my 03 200.

$135 to get it rebuilt locally! Any other options? FRP?

Thanks!

Confirmed match with local dealer. $70 on ebay, not bad. I hope I can get it in time!

It's not that huge a deal to rebuild it yourself. Then you need a shop that will charge it with Nitrogen for you. Some of them are whiney that their tech can get injured if you didn't assembly correctly. I just charged mine with about 130 psi of air to prove it was solid before they charged it. I think it cost me around $50 for the parts and oil, then $15 for Nitrogen. I don't trust people to work on my stuff, so did it myself. Huge difference after.

I bought one on ebay because I panicked I wouldn't have a bike for next weekend's ride. I've been planning it for four months. So after the buyers remorse, I thought, "man I can fix this myself, after all I got the kdx guys to help me!"

I just disassembled it (using the service manual) and I am looking for suggestions on what I need to replace. Just the shock seal? and oil of course.

In the service manual I read something about the bladder being "partially collapsed". I didn't understand that part. Mine looks partially collapsed, meaning it is not perfectly cylindrical... the gas is out so I wouldn't expect it to look inflated. Maybe you can explain.

Any tips and tricks would be appreciated.

On the refill part and getting hurt... if you get both snap rings in there properly there should be no issue right?

Partially collapsed: I'm guessing this is the assembly procedure. You put enough pressure in the bladder for it to hold its shape, grease the lips, put it in. THEN you pressurize it the rest of the way.

Do it right and there won't be any 'bleeding' required..you will have put it together without any air anywhere.

When inserting the bladder, put it in just enough to let you seat the clips..no more. Completing the pressurization will push the bladder out to the clips.

Of course...if it was leaking, you will need a new seal.

A leaking shock is not a common KDX problem. Likely the thing wasn't serviced as it should have been.

With the clips seated correctly..it's not going to blow up on you. Still...some shops simply will not charge a shock they didn't assemble.

Bladder... got it. On to the seal. How do I remove the seal from the rod? From the top or the bottom? I posted this question elsewhere as well. Looks like the top threads are a bit peened.

On the pressurization topic... I going to try ColoradoMikes idea of inflating it with air to 130-140PSI and verify it holds. Any tips for this procedure (so I dont get hurt) would be appreciated.

1. I don't know about the seal. I have not replaced one. Seems very unlikely it would come out the bottom. I very much doubt you mess with the rebound clicker.

That the top is peened/staked is evidence enough that's where 'stuff' exits and enters the shock assembly.

Tips? Meaning..how to get 140psi in it? Most compressors don't run that high. I have a shock pump I got for that purpose. Not this one, but something like it:

http://bicyclewarehouse.com/itemdetails ... oogle_base

Whichever brand/type you choose, make sure it has a lossless valve on it. Most do..as shock requirements air-volume wise are quite small and a slight 'pfffft' when you take the pump off is NOT acceptable.

IF what you're after is enough pressurization to prove the thing won't blow up when the shop puts nitrogen in it, any decent compressor will accomplish that.

Thanks CC. So do I need to file/grind the peened/staked thread or just turn the nut off? I don't want to cross thread anything.

Rule of Law:

NEVER force a fastener (nut or bolt) past a staked end.

I just checked, and contrary to my PM to Varmint, the racetech site shows the price for the oil seal, bushing and the dust seal are cheaper than at the MX-Tech site. however, they charge $65 for the whole seal head, vs. $49 at MX-tech .

You want to go with the whole seal head to avoid any stressed parts... believe me!

Been thinking:

I don't know what the word 'peened' means regarding the shaft. The word seems to be misused pretty much most of the time..and I'm one of 'em that do it.

Note:

peen
n.
The end of a hammerhead opposite the flat striking surface, often wedge-shaped or ball-shaped and used for chipping, indenting, and metalworking.

tr.v. peened, peen·ing, peens
To hammer, bend, or shape with a peen


It would seem from the definition that to hammer/bend/shape using a punch is NOT 'peening' if you don't use a peen to do it.

Anyway...IF 'peen' above means the threads of the shaft have been 'dimpled' (bent..shaped) to affect a locking effect on the nut then, unless the threads are really hammered, simply removing the nut should be fine. I've done such (bent/shaped) to kicker knuckle threads to further enhance the assembly staying attached. The nut may not vibrate loose and fall off..but a wrench removes it easily.

I don't find the word 'stake' or 'staked' anywhere as a verb that has to do with how I've always used the word: A punch on the end of a shaft to swell the shaft, hampering separation of any fastener, OR cutting vertically into (in this case) the rod then spreading the pieces with a punch to similarly hamper fastener disassociation.

THAT will likely destroy the fastener if you force it.


Shocks can be expensive if you don't find a good deal on one. It certainly would sucketh most large if you ruined the shock shaft trying to take it apart.

I don't know if it's peened, staked, swaged, or what, but from the factory the top of the shaft is smashed into the nut real danged hard. If you try to loosen or even unloosen it, you'll be screwed (not unscrewed). you have to grind it down. MX-Tech says to grind into the nut. I bet there's a reason why these guys sell replacement nuts.

Here are some pictures for informational purposes.


So I should grind down to the nut or take a file to the edge and make the thread smaller and remove the nut without damaging it?

And whats the top section called? spacer, piston,valve, all the above?

I would call that the valve, but I'm no suspension genius. the seal head is the thing below that. keep your shims in order on a wire tie or stick and clean them, all the other parts, including the shock body.

Man I am having problems deciding whether I need to remove the valve. Explain to me (again) why I just can't take the cleavis end off and slip the seal head off that way. Does the cleavis nut remain on the shaft which would effectively block the seal head anyway?

I understand cleaning the valve would be easier disassembled but I don't have the tools to properly grind the top down.

I'm trying to solve the leak which, I believe, is caused by the seal head.

I don't know if the seal head can be taken off the bottom.

A seal Head is on there super tight.... you would have problems and possibly damage a new one installing it.

Find a buddy who has a grinder....

Colorado Mike wrote:I don't know if the seal head can be taken off the bottom.

I think you are right. I think that 22mm nuts stays on the rod.