pipe guard ?

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getzom
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pipe guard ?

Post by getzom »

does anyone know of a good carbon fiber pipe guard for a fmf woods pipe? thanx
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Re: pipe guard ?

Post by canuckhybrid125 »

>|<>QBB<
getzom wrote:does anyone know of a good carbon fiber pipe guard for a fmf woods pipe? thanx
Freddete racing makes one out of fibreglass,its not too bad for $55
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Post by Indawoods »

Make your own out of fiberglass....
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Post by island220 »

For the price fiberglass is the way to go, carbon fiber is overrated and very expensive. and fiberglass guards are pretty tough compared to aluminum guards. I made my skid plate out of fiberglass also and its holding up fine,the only drawback is that I have to paint it about twice a year.
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Post by jaydollar »

iv'e got an frp for the torque pipe.it needed some minor deburring...aka sharp edges... other than that no problems.the e-line looks cool out of carbon fiber but its a hundred bucks more. if you can afford that , you can go guardless and buy a second pipe!!! frp is good. busted butt my twice on pipe side , no damage.ymmv.j$
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Post by SteveWR450f »

Unfortunately, the eline carbon fiber is out of production. Have not made it in over a year. I got one of the last ones. Its nice but I also have used the FRP fiberglass one and its just as good and alot cheaper.
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Post by island220 »

Before I made my pipe guard I talked to a few kyak builders, they all used fiberglass, carbon is not much stronger but is heavier and very expensive, if you do make one out of fiberglass try to find a kyak shop or boat builders the stuff is expensive if you buy from napa or home depot etc. Try to find someone that buys bulk. Good luck on what ever you decide.
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Post by jc7622 »

I built a kayak several years ago out of ultra-thin plywood and fiberglass/epoxy. It was more fun building it than paddling it.

I bought West System brand epoxy that came with the metering squirt pumps on top. Those really made it easy to accurately squirt the correct amounts of resin and hardener. I know there is a pigment you can add to the resin, but I'm not sure how translucent it will be. I have also recently seen a black fiberglass cloth on the web but can't remember how much it cost. Making stuff out of epoxy and fiberglass is really fun, or at least I though it was. Make sure to read all you can about it and use the correct respirator mask.

Check out this site: http://www.fibreglast.com/ There is alot of info there and they sell pretty much everything you could ever need.

I'm thinking about building some skidplate for my kids bikes. I was planning on drainign all of the fluids and fuel, turning the bikes upside down, applying pieces of foam in the nooks and crannies on the bottom, file the foam down to the desired profile, taping over the bottom to make a smooth surface, applying the wax and release agent, masking off the rest of the bike in case of drips, laying up the part, and then do the final trimming to get it just right. I was going to squeegie the resin into the cloth and keep laying up layers. I planned to let the weave show through on the outside. That would really give it a unique look rather than the smooth look that most FRP (fiber reinforced plastic) parts have.
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Post by island220 »

Thats a good idea using foam, when I did my skid plate I used cardboard for backing it worked ok, I just stood my bike on its rear wheels and that worked ok, I made one for my kids cr 250 also, you got the right idea the smother you can make your backing the less sanding for prep. I was surprised how stong they are I came off a 4 foot drop on to a rock with no damage to bike did have to fix crack in skid plate but that was easy compared to a cracked case.
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Post by jc7622 »

Did you use all fiberglass or does it have some carbon fiber in it? How many layers did you use? Did you leave it natural or paint it with something? You should post some pics when you get a chance. I always like to see people's home built parts.

I found the black fiberglass on the link above. $20 for one yard 50" wide.
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Post by island220 »

Just fiberglass, I think I used 5 or 6 layers of some tight weave material black paint with clear coat,between coats 400 grit wet dry and wax dont want mud sticking. I will call my son tonight I think he has the pics on his computer
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Post by island220 »

Found reciept paid 7.50 per yard 7.5 ounce material, resin was 20$ a gallon Easy rider canoe and kayak seattle wa. they do have a web site easyriderkayaks.com the material I used was tight weave and very pliable easy to mold into tight spots or round items like pipe. I used a brush to apply resin guys at shop recomended spraying it on.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: 'I found the black fiberglass...'

You can get colors (including black) to add to the resin.

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Post by 80elkster »

I repaired a metal rusted out seat base with fiberglass and added black pigment to the resin. Didn't need to paint at all. Can't recall where I got the pigment seems it was an auto parts store or was it an auto paint store hmm not enought synapses fireing :?
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Post by canyncarvr »

I got mine from the same place that I got the resin/cloth.

**note**
I recall the 'structions say to add the color BEFORE you add the activator/hardener.

If you put enough activator in it to cure quickly, you might have a problem with the time it takes to mix in the color. I've not done it both ways...just the wrong way..and it got a bit thick a bit too quick.

Yeah...everybody else reads all the instructions FIRST I suppose. Probably in all seven languages, even!

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Post by canyncarvr »

Used on an FRP pipe guard. The guard was painted black. Being painted, it needed to be repainted once in awhile (if it being black was the intent) after some heating, scraping, banging.

Using a pigment in the resin pretty much precludes having to mess with that.

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Post by island220 »

Sorry it took so long to post pics took awhile to find pics an figure out how to post pics.
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Post by pietman »

island220, Did you use heat resistant paint on those pipe gaurds, or will regular spray paint do fine?
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