KDXRIDER.NET

OK couple of questions. Since I am changing out the front fork springs and the bike is an 05 with basically no miles on it do I need to change the fork oil?

Also I figured on doing the shim stack mod at the same time as the spring change should replace the springs first then do the shim stack mod or the shim stack mod then the spring change.

Also do I need to pull the fork legs when I do either or can I do it on the bike?

I assume the fork legs need to be upside down when I pull the shim stacks or the oil will run out

Thanks guys

Yes... they use pond scum for fork oil from the factory. You will want to change it out, clean with kerosene... make sure you pump the crap out of the cylinder to get all the pond scum out and also when you clean them with the kerosene.

On a full service... it is best to just pull the forks. It doesn't matter the order you replace the springs and pull the valve since they are going to be cleaned anyway.

Indawoods wrote:Yes... they use pond scum for fork oil from the factory. You will want to change it out, clean with kerosene... make sure you pump the crap out of the cylinder to get all the pond scum out and also when you clean them with the kerosene.

On a full service... it is best to just pull the forks. It doesn't matter the order you replace the springs and pull the valve since they are going to be cleaned anyway.

I would really like to know what the crap they call fork oil really is ??
My KDX original fork oil was just like Indawoods describes.
My KX450f was the real thing........

Re: 'I assume the fork legs need to be upside down when I pull the shim stacks or the oil will run out'

Inda has a pic of his method 'round here somewheres. He turned his bike upside down.

I've had my base valves out with the forks in the bike..just layed it over so the oil ran what was then downhill. Cinch up the front-end with a strap to keep the cartridge from moving, THEN lay it over, prop up the front-end, zip out the valves, make the changes you want..zip 'em back in. Will take you a couple of minutes once you get used to doing it.

You can change springs with the forks in the bike. I wouldn't. Tried it once. Took more time messing with the inconvenience than it did taking the forks out.

Measuring/figuring/assembling preload spacers with the fork in the bike would be a pain. Pumping the forks to clear bubbles with forks in the bike? More of a pain.

Base valves (in the bike)? Fine. Anything else (in the bike)? Pain.

canyncarvr wrote:Re: 'I assume the fork legs need to be upside down when I pull the shim stacks or the oil will run out'

Inda has a pic of his method 'round here somewheres. He turned his bike upside down.

I've had my base valves out with the forks in the bike..just layed it over so the oil ran what was then downhill. Cinch up the front-end with a strap to keep the cartridge from moving, THEN lay it over, prop up the front-end, zip out the valves, make the changes you want..zip 'em back in. Will take you a couple of minutes once you get used to doing it.

You can change springs with the forks in the bike. I wouldn't. Tried it once. Took more time messing with the inconvenience than it did taking the forks out.

Measuring/figuring/assembling preload spacers with the fork in the bike would be a pain. Pumping the forks to clear bubbles with forks in the bike? More of a pain.

Base valves (in the bike)? Fine. Anything else (in the bike)? Pain.

Thanks, going to pull the fork legs seems it is going to be a lot less of a pain