Honda CRF Front master cylinder

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 12:07 am May 06 2005

I've been going through my bike and fixing up the front brake to work with as little effort as possible. I guess the old age is catching up with me and I am getting arm pump on my throttle hand and I think it is due to the braking action. So, I've gotten an oversized floating rotor to increase braking sensitivity / performance by 30%, stainless steel brakeline to get rid of mushy feel (especially when the braking starts to warm up and the brake line starts behaving like a ballon), sintered metal brake pads, and now I'm looking at the Honda master cylinder. I've noticed the CRF master cylinder has it's banjo bolt mount on the inside, next to the bars, compared to the Kawasaki master cylinder which has the connection on the outside. The stock MC has the brakeline interferring with my brush guards and I can't rotate my brake lever down as much as I like. When I'm riding in a standing position, this causes my hand to break at the wrist and it tires easily. If I could rotate the MC and the lever down more, then my wrist, forearm and fingers would all be on the same plane and should provide more skelatial support so my muscles won't cramp or pump up. The Honda CRF style MC looks like it might allow my brake line more room be rotated into a better position. I can get a CRF MC off eBay for a good price if I'm patient.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Post by **Indawoods** » 08:40 am May 06 2005

Simple solution is to grind the top protrusion from the master cylinder off to allow you to rotate the brake line. Shouldn't hurt a thing.....

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 10:20 am May 06 2005

I've thought about that Inda. If I can't obtain the honda MC, I may have to give that a try.

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 05:49 pm May 06 2005

What happened to the CR 'kit' you got...that amounted to a brakeline?

Did you ever put it on? Brakeline routing/attachment method?

How does an oversized rotor make any difference if you don't change the caliper for larger swept area? Did the caliper position change?

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 07:05 pm May 06 2005

I knew you were waiting for a report on the CR type steel braided brake line!! Ha!

I matched the brakeline up next to my origonal line and routed it as designed just to see that it would not hang up on anything and how it would ride. I ran it through the fork guard guide and moved the heavy outer black plastic sleeve covering the middle section of the brake line up so it doesn't hang or interfere with the fork guard guide. The ends of the brakeline that hang out of the heavy black sleeve covering the middle of the brake line are very flexable. Just by routing the brake line through the grommet and the fork guard guide seems to be enough mounting to keep the brake line where it needs to be. I looked at how Yamaha does it, and they don't clamp theirs down like Honda does, just a couple of hooks molded into the fork guard that the brake line slides through. A clamp was provided with the brakeline, but no instructions showed how to mount it.

Since I was set to run an enduro last weekend, last thing I wanted to do was test the brake line on a race run, so I am waiting until tomorrow to stick it on.

The oversized rotor working surface has the same width of the stock rotor and brake pads, just in a larger diameter circle. The rotor came with an adaptor to relocate the caliper out to the new rotor surface location. But, it didn't come with instructions either, so I'll just have to check Titax's website or hope it's intuitive. The claim is 30% more braking power and I'm figuring it's due to the rotor surface is further from the axle so one revolution covers more rotor surface than the stock one.

Anyway, It will all be installed tomorrow with a ride and product report to follow.

Let me just say, the stock front brake is strong, it will allow me to do stoppies very easy on the street....scary easy. But I'm trying for one finger brake control. These long 5+ hour (6+ in my case) enduros are really wearing out my hands. It's my hope that if I can get the front brake to have the same precise control my hand operated rear brake has using just one or two fingers, then fatigue will be reduced.

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 05:31 pm May 09 2005

re: 'through the grommet and the fork guard guide..'

Grommet? What grommet?

I doan have no steenking grommet.

How about a pitchur? Please?

Is it tomorrow yet?

Post by **Indawoods** » 05:36 pm May 09 2005

Every time I do a stoppie... it turns into a floppie!

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 06:21 pm May 09 2005

check the product review section. I posted there. OH, he11, here's the link lazy!! Ha!

http://www.kdx.woodsrider.net/viewtopic.php?t=748

The grommet I spoke of attaches at the lower triple tree. A nylon grommet held to the pinch bolts via a metal clamp. (Mine hits the fork guard when I bottom my suspension so I'm going to have to move it up, remove it and replace with a loop type setup on the # plate or something else.)

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 06:35 pm May 09 2005

Thanks for making it easy!

Oh. THAT 'grommet. Never occured to me to think that guide was a grommet.

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 09:39 pm May 09 2005

Pardon my french for calling the guide a grommet.
(See ya in a couple weeks or so!!!)

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 11:06 pm May 09 2005

Hey!

Just 'cuz someone is dense to the point they don't understand the simplest things doesn't mean the speaker need apologize.

I was only seriously debauching myself for my own lack of understanding.

So there!

Yep. Couple of weeks! YeeHAw!!

Looking forward to it!!

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 11:29 pm May 09 2005

I'm trying to stay as busy as possible until then so I don't think about the time.

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Honda CRF Front master cylinder

Honda CRF Front master cylinder