KDX250 Swingarm removal - I can't et the bolt out?

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edhjr9
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KDX250 Swingarm removal - I can't et the bolt out?

Post by edhjr9 »

I just picked up a 1992 KDX250 that was obviously not taken care of too well. I want to replace the swingarm bearings but can't get the swingarm bolt out. The nut came right off and I can turn the whole bolt but it won't move. There's not something crazy like a C-clip in there holding it or something is there? I looked at the parts microfiche and it doesn't show anything. Any ideas what is holding it in there and how to get it out?
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Post by Varmint »

Did you try tapping it lightly with a brass drift? I believe its meant to slide out. Be careful! Don't whale on it! I learned a lesson taking one out of my 200.
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Post by KarlP »

I suspect rusted bearings are holding it in.

Soak with penetrating oil, warm with torch, soak with penetrating oil, see VirtualVarmints experience.
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Post by skythrasher »

If it will spin but not slide out it may have worn a ridge or ridges on the bolt. Try having a helper spin the bolt while you tap on it with a drift or dead blow. This might help if the inners are not stuck to the bolt too awful bad. If the inners are locked on the bolt then you'll probably have to get ugly with it. As long as you don't beat on the frame you should be able to get pretty rough with it and not hurt anything.
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Post by MXOldtimer »

Lay the bike on it's side. Flood it with penetrating oil over night, longer the better. Get a length of 1" oak dowel and one of these.

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Make sure the nut is on and flush when you whack away.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: 'I can turn the whole bolt but it won't move'

The pivot pin is rusted/corroded to the bearing collars..due to, you guesseder chester...insufficient maintenance.

Try progressively more aggressive tactics..as already suggested. It may end up coming out with a reciprocal saw (cut the pivot pin).

Good luck. Getting stuck pivot pins out can be quite the PITA.

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Got it out! Now what's the trick to getting the new bearing

Post by edhjr9 »

I took it to work and use door jambs and a porta power (a redneck press). Got it to move then just tapped it out. Some of the bearings had actually disintegrated and was dust. Any tricks to get the new bearings in....thinking about making a trip to Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap press....unless there's an easy way I don't know about!
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Post by Julien D »

a proper sized socket slipped over a piece of threaded rod with washers and nuts on either side works pretty well to get them moving. It's not fun...
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Post by fuzzy »

Freeze bearings, heat installation area prior to inserting frozen bearing.
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Post by Colorado Mike »

I worked on a KX swingarm that was a bear with rusted bearings. I hosed them with PB Blaster, wrapped them with plastic to soak over night, then pressed them out. The HF press makes it easier, but you still need to be careful that you're going straight and you support the arm well. Very easy to bend something with 12 tons of pressure.
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Post by canyncarvr »

PortaPowers are great! Sure beats trying to fit the whole dang bike into a press. Congrats to any redneck that came up with the machine!

Good to hear you got the pin out. You're more'n 1/2 way there!


Bearings are easier to remove in one piece than when the only thing left is the outer shell. The shell might not be strong enough to take the pressure required to get them out.

I've used a cold chisel and a ballpein before in such a situation. Sometimes a punch or a nail set can be used to start an edge curling to the inside.

Good luck with that part, too!

Put some anti-seize on the bearing shells when you put them in, too. That will help next time!

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Post by edhjr9 »

Well............i trashed 2 of the new bearings already. I got them started and about 3/4 of the way in then it stopped. I pressed a little more and el-mushroomo! I know they should be a tight fit but that tight? I had the bearings in the freezer all week while I was out of town and I heated the swingarm a bit with a heat gun and still did it to 2 of them. And I tried one in each side thinking one side might be screwed up.

Any ideas? If I need to find a new swingarm anyone have any info on what will fit.......KDX250's aren't too plentiful (none on ebay 91-94).

Thanks in advance for any help!
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Post by canyncarvr »

Should be easy enough to see anything IN the swingarm that will stop a bearing press.

If you see nothing of note, my vote is 'wrong bearings'. There has been no input on this board that I know of having to do with that tight a fit on any KDX.

I do not know what swingarm would fit in its place.

Are you replacing two bearings on each side with a single bearing?

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Post by edhjr9 »

Yes it is 2 bearings in place of the old one. I took a scotch brite pad and cleaned the holes completely. I tried both sides of the swingarm so I'm thinking it's a problem with the bearings. I ordered a new set and will see what happens with those later this week. Does anyone know if there is a spec on the hole size........or if I mic the hole and the bearing what is the most the difference in the measurements should be.

I've done a lot of wheel and head bearings but my firt time with the swingarm. Never ran into anything like this.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: 'Two bearings in place of the old one'?

:hmm:

The 200/220 OEM configuration is two bearings on each side. Some kits (Pivotworks for example) have only ONE (about twice as long/wide) bearing on each side.

Your saying, 'two in place of the one' says you are putting OEM bearings in where an aftermarket bearing has already been installed.

All of that based on the 200/220. I didn't go looking for a 250 fiche to see what is denoted as OEM.


All things considered, you will have an easier time putting two where one was than one where two were...particularly if damage has been caused to the swingarm from displaced bits of needle rollers knocking around inside the swingarm.

I took a seized swingarm pin out awhile back on a friend's machine. Had to cut it out. The pivot pin was beat to HELL and gone from the rollers that had come out of their shells..and then migrated to the space between the pin and the swingarm and played 'garbage disposal' for months.


Whose bearings are you using?

There are a list of 'differences' between metals when it comes to press fits. I don't know what those listings are. A bronze bushing in a piece of aluminum is going to be sized differently that hardened steel (bearing race) in steel.

Of course there IS a spec to the swingarm hole size. I have no idea what that is.

Sorry.

With a caliper it's about impossible to tell...but do you have any impression or idea that the machined surface in the swingarm where the bearings sit is tapered or damaged?

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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Seems to me some bearings have different sides on em

One side for driving and one side thats chamfered to fit easier

I ruined some Moose bearings like that
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Post by edhjr9 »

These were pivot works. According to the microfiche the KDX250 came with 1 long bearing which leads me to believe the ones removed are stock. The replacement from pivot works has 2 for each hole. The difference in the hole and the bearing seems way big of a difference for the bearing to squeeze in. I ordered a new set of All Balls so we'll see what happens.
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Post by KarlP »

I've the best luck with OEM. Probably just luck.
A "kit" from Pivot Works had an inner race that was too small.
Wheel bearings from All Balls seemed cheap compared to the old ones.
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Post by canyncarvr »

>|<>QBB<
edhjr9 wrote:These were pivot works. According to the microfiche the KDX250 came with 1 long bearing which leads me to believe the ones removed are stock. The replacement from pivot works has 2 for each hole. The difference in the hole and the bearing seems way big of a difference for the bearing to squeeze in. I ordered a new set of All Balls so we'll see what happens.
Under the heading of 'Why ask why?'

...uh...WHY?

That's just strange that the exact opposite is true for the KDX..2/per OEM, 1/per PivotWorks.

What is a 'way big difference'? Seeing as you munched a couple, I assume the bearing is bigger than the hole..which it should be..but certainly not 'way big'..ger. A couple thousandth's? More?

Re: 'I've the best luck with OEM. Probably just luck.'

I disagree. :rolleyes: Meaning, I don't think it's just luck. With few exception, I've found OEM bearings to be better quality than most aftermarket stuff. One exception I can think of is the lower shock bearing. The OEM bearing is simply crap. On a brand new bearing the needles fit so bad you can SEE they are crooked in the race! And, no...they don't straighten out when the outer race is 'squeezed' into the unitrack piece.

AllsBalls? Please, no 'I use 'em all the time and don't have any problems with 'em' retorts..but they're junk. Not worth the time it takes to put them in.

Not that this is a majority vote situation...buy MY vote is to send the AllsBalls back..get OEM bearings/sleeves/seals.

It will be interesting to see if another brand is different. Measure 'em up afore you push 'em in? Inquiring minds (mee too!) wanna know!

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Post by canyncarvr »

>|<>QBB<
Mr. Wibbens wrote:Seems to me some bearings have different sides on em

One side for driving and one side thats chamfered to fit easier

I ruined some Moose bearings like that
Picked up some OEM bearings today. While I generally press against the end that has the bearing numbers on it, I've not looked closely at a needle bearing. I took note today that the marked side is indeed 'flat' while the other side has NO flat to it but is radiused over the needle end-pins.

You would want to press against the end with the flat on it.

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