Chain and Fork Questions
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Chain and Fork Questions
Just getting back into riding after many years away and have aquired an 04 KDX 200. Working on dailing it in for me and have a few questions.
What is the proper chain slack?
For adjusting compression dampening on fork which direction on the clickers for stiffening, Clockwise or counter looking at the bottom?
What is proper technique for bleeding air from the front forks?
What is the proper chain slack?
For adjusting compression dampening on fork which direction on the clickers for stiffening, Clockwise or counter looking at the bottom?
What is proper technique for bleeding air from the front forks?
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Chain slack is 55 mm to 65 mm per the Cyclepedia manual, which I convert in my head to "a little over two inches" to "about two and three-quarters inches".
Full clockwise on the forks (all the way in) is stiffest. Stock setting is 10 clicks out.
I never bother with bleeding the forks, so I don't know.
Full clockwise on the forks (all the way in) is stiffest. Stock setting is 10 clicks out.
I never bother with bleeding the forks, so I don't know.
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I see this is a bit old, but a 520 street chain rated for 1000cc bikes doesn't stretch. I ran one of those on my 400KTM through 3 sets of sprockets, in the course of a year and a half, with many many many hours.
I do have a question, how many links does a stock kdx (05 200) chain have. 108?
I do have a question, how many links does a stock kdx (05 200) chain have. 108?
The object of life is not to cross the finish line safely, but to slide across sideways, battered and bleeding,
bike smoking and leaking, screaming "YEEHAWWW, Lets do it again!"
bike smoking and leaking, screaming "YEEHAWWW, Lets do it again!"
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- canyncarvr
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Re: 'What is proper technique for bleeding air from the front forks?'
Invest in some bleeders. MotionPro has 'em. The short ones require drill&tap, the tall ones (the short ones screwed into a thread adapter) don't.
The OEM forks (mine anyway) built up a considerably amount of pressure during a ride. The single most productive, beneficial thing I ever did to the OEM forks was put some bleeders in 'em.
After which time the answer to the question became: 'Unload the forks, push the button.'
You could carry a little screw driver around with you and do the same thing. But, about the time you either drop one of those bleed screws and can't find it...or the pressure in the forks blows it into the weeds somewhere, you're going to be wishing you had a set of poppers in their place already.
IF you happen to run your forks up in the clamps some..AND you have fat bars, I'd guess there might be a lack of space issue if you try to use the longer bleeders.
Invest in some bleeders. MotionPro has 'em. The short ones require drill&tap, the tall ones (the short ones screwed into a thread adapter) don't.
The OEM forks (mine anyway) built up a considerably amount of pressure during a ride. The single most productive, beneficial thing I ever did to the OEM forks was put some bleeders in 'em.
After which time the answer to the question became: 'Unload the forks, push the button.'
You could carry a little screw driver around with you and do the same thing. But, about the time you either drop one of those bleed screws and can't find it...or the pressure in the forks blows it into the weeds somewhere, you're going to be wishing you had a set of poppers in their place already.
IF you happen to run your forks up in the clamps some..AND you have fat bars, I'd guess there might be a lack of space issue if you try to use the longer bleeders.
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Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
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