Brake pads, which type and what brand?

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Brake pads, which type and what brand?

Postby skipro3 » 07:16 pm Apr 30 2005

O.K. I got my stainless steel CR style front brake line and now realize that my front rotor is warped, (not bad) worn so you can feel that it is thinner where the pads rub, my rear rotor is also thinner where the pads rub.

I searched over on rockymountainmc.com and found a rear rotor in stainless steel by titax for $39.99 clearance and the front rotor (for a KX125) oversized to 280mm includes the bracket for relocating the caliper for $59.99.

What type of pads would be best? I see there are carbon, metal, and sintred. I need new pads for the front (KX125) and for the rear.

Thanks for the suggestions!!
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Postby Jason » 09:52 pm Apr 30 2005

Have you tried to get an adjustable wrench, tighten it down on the rotor and bend it back some?

dry / racing / wet
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

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Postby skipro3 » 12:11 am May 01 2005

I'm more concerned that it's worn down thin than being tweaked. I can feel the thickness difference with my fingers where the pads rub the rotor. I can't see putting new pads on if the rotor is worn out. I didn't see a wear limit in the manual. Maybe I wasn't looking in the right spot.
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Postby Jason » 12:29 am May 01 2005

No need for a micrometer when fingerometers will do. :rolleyes:

If it is a stock, 1996 KX125 front rotor, then the service limit may very well be 2.5mm. Check again in your manual to be certain, as I have no 1996 KX manual.
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

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Postby skipro3 » 12:31 pm May 02 2005

O.K. no recommendations on which type pads, so I'm going with the cheaper ones from rockymountain.
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Postby m0rie » 12:41 pm May 02 2005

Let us know how the titax rotor does.

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Postby canyncarvr » 12:48 pm May 02 2005

re: fingerometer

The spec is ON the rotor. Don't recall what it is, but you're pretty much always going to be feeling the difference between the pad contact area and otherwise.

Pads: I've used EBC -x..sintered copper, listed on the EBC site as:
EBC wrote:
High density material for longer life

Sintered copper alloy perfect for wet, mud and slurry

Lowest rotor abrasion


BUT....you get only the pads.

Look up the part in BuyKawi and you find them to be an 'assembly". Indeed, if you get OEM parts, they come with the backing plate and the fiber pad that goes between the plate and the brake pad.

I swapped those parts successfully a few times. Then one of the backing plate tabs broke and it would not stay properly seated on the pad.

So, my last brake pads (rear) were OEM from RonAyers. They are outwearing the EBC pads.

BTW, I have a Braking brand rotor on the rear, now. I replaced it because the oem rotor had some severe (via fingerometer) ridges (more like 'waves'?) worn in it, and I didn't want to waste a good bit of the new pads hitting just the high spots.

Points:

Braking seems to make a good rotor. I've bought a Titax before..the workmanship wasn't impressive, although it WAS cheap. I'll bet you get what you pay for in rotors.

Consider OEM pads.


AND...consider replacing your pins, too. I sanded mine clean/smooth a couple of times, but 'ya need new ones eventually. They aren't cheap, as I recall.

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Postby skipro3 » 01:27 pm May 02 2005

Thanks CC. BTW, look for an e-mail soon. I'm still coming up on the 20th but will only be able to stay for one day riding!
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Postby canyncarvr » 02:37 pm May 02 2005

Let the regression begin!!! :sad:

Only one day!! Heck..that's no good!!

I've got enough riding on the list for more'n just two days....Timber Mtn. one day, Bunny Flat (hop-hop-hop) the next.

Say it isn't so!!!

Come up early enough 5-20 and we can ride some that afternoon!!

You're gonna disappoint all the other guys that made plans!!

...Don't be sayin'....what 'all the other' guys?

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Postby m0rie » 03:16 pm May 02 2005

canyncarvr wrote:...Don't be sayin'....what 'all the other' guys?


I'm one of those other guys...can I still come?

I'm planning on coming up, as long as I solve my carbs incontinence problem before then....

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Postby canyncarvr » 03:33 pm May 02 2005

You bet! We'll tie-wrap Ski to his bumper so he can't leave!

Did I mention my cat was a snack for a cougar last night?

...Don't worry about being stuck to your rig all night, Ski. That purring sound you hear is just a puma contemplating a good meal!!

What sorta depends problems you gots? Cleaned the seat with a cotton swab and a strip of wet-n-dry yet?

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Postby skipro3 » 03:34 pm May 02 2005

I'll see if I can drop a car off at the airport for the wife the night before. Just be gentle with me on the trails, o.k? My body is reminding me of the punishment I delt out to it yesterday!!!

m0rie! You're going to make it?!

What other guys are coming? That Wibby has probably forgotten how to ride a KDX by now. Marty I hope! He's fun. I don't know if Doug is coming. He hasn't said.

Doug's selling his KX500. Anyone interested? 2003 with Eric Gorr "mo everything", EFM Auto clutch, big tank, jetted perfect, IMS pegs, fat bars, brush guards, and enough plastic to outfit 3 bikes. He's getting a 250, probably a Kawasaki. Says the KX frame is too long and can't do the switchbacks like he would like. Also, he wants to get a 2002 or older so he can have a green sticker.
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Postby canyncarvr » 03:45 pm May 02 2005

Have the lady call Enterprise. They'll pick her up!!! :wink:


We're talkin' three weeks away!! Whatever happened to you yesterday will be ancient history by then!

I dislocated one of my knees (again) yesterday. Is that going to be a good excuse for the weekend 5-21/22?

Ha! Doubt it!!


...I'll have to remember that..........

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Postby m0rie » 04:23 pm May 02 2005

canyncarvr wrote:What sorta depends problems you gots? Cleaned the seat with a cotton swab and a strip of wet-n-dry yet?


It leaks like a sieve, namely it doesn't hold gas very well :roll: I cleaned it before with the cotton swap and wet-n-dry and it didn't seem to help. The needle had a bit of a lip on it so i've got a float needle and a couple of jets and such coming from Sudco. Dunno when they will be here though. Sparkies (thanks karbon_dunn) should be here today. When the float needle shows up i'll do the polish and clean routine again and see what happens.

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Postby skipro3 » 04:39 pm May 02 2005

The airport is about an hour and 15 minutes away. I'll get something worked out that way. It's getting her to agree that it won't be me there to pick her up and she's gonna have to drive home that I need to work out. She's the one that is changing her flight schedule. She wasn't supposed to come home until Monday but no one in sandy eggo was going to be around to take her to the airport Monday, so she rescheduled for Sunday. Grrrrrrr!!!!!

Cougars, yes we be havin' troubles with those too. My doggy comes home the other morning after her constitutional with her paws and snout all covered in bright red blood. I followed her back to a deer that's been covered up with leaves over on my neighbors property. Neighbor Tom was home and said that's the third one this spring!!! My other neighbor across the street, part timer who only comes up on weekends from San Jose, watched a mountain lion catch and kill a turkey a while back as well.

m0rie, come and bring your bike anyway, even if it is peeing. We will be glad to get it back running again!

Three weeks, yes! But there's the 49er Enduro this coming weekend, and the Polecat the weekend after that. Ha! I think I'll skip the Polecat or just work it as a volunteer. (Must work one enduro a season for good Karma)

Did you like my water crossing photo in the ride report?

Clicky on this link to see more of the enduro if you didn't:
http://photobucket.com/albums/y168/daud ... QSOuhH41ky
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Re: Brake pads, which type and what brand?

Postby Jason » 05:28 pm May 02 2005

skipro3 wrote:O.K. I got my stainless steel CR style front brake line and now realize that my front rotor is warped, (not bad) worn so you can feel that it is thinner where the pads rub, my rear rotor is also thinner where the pads rub.

I searched over on rockymountainmc.com and found a rear rotor in stainless steel by titax for $39.99 clearance and the front rotor (for a KX125) oversized to 280mm includes the bracket for relocating the caliper for $59.99.

What type of pads would be best? I see there are carbon, metal, and sintred. I need new pads for the front (KX125) and for the rear.

Thanks for the suggestions!!


Carbon is for dry conditions. Metal is for wet and sintered are for racing, as best I know. They should have some information on that on the EBC chart. You can download a PDF of their catalog.
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs in Berryman's to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
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Postby skipro3 » 05:39 pm May 02 2005

Thanks Jason. I found that. I'm going with the sintered. Price wise, there isn't much difference; 10 bucks seperate the cheapest from the most expensive. I wish I could justify fancy wave rotors but my concience won't let me! Ha!

So come out west in 3 weeks buddy. I want to roost you! :lol:
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Postby Jason » 05:44 pm May 02 2005

I will not be able to make it, of course. :grin: Since my bikes are stripped to the frames, I could only serve as the designated beer / sandwich chest guardian.
Thank you, Julien D for all your hard work!

PLEASE! Do not "dip" PWK Keihin carbs in Berryman's to clean them! It will damage the internal o-ring (jet block gasket).
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Postby skipro3 » 05:48 pm May 02 2005

m0rie wrote:
canyncarvr wrote:What sorta depends problems you gots? Cleaned the seat with a cotton swab and a strip of wet-n-dry yet?


It leaks like a sieve, namely it doesn't hold gas very well :roll: I cleaned it before with the cotton swap and wet-n-dry and it didn't seem to help. The needle had a bit of a lip on it so i've got a float needle and a couple of jets and such coming from Sudco. Dunno when they will be here though. Sparkies (thanks karbon_dunn) should be here today. When the float needle shows up i'll do the polish and clean routine again and see what happens.

-Maurice


m0rie: I've used brasso to clean and polish the seat. It's much less abrasive than wet-dry. The new float needle should do the trick.
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