preparing for plating
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preparing for plating
hiya fellas,hope your all well.i've decided to strip the top end of my bike ('00kdx220) and replate.i've removed the kips and the head studs and while cleaning the cylinder i discovered an allen plug directly below the exhaust port.should this be removed before i send it to the platers? if you are unfamiliar with this plug i will be happy to post a pic.
thanks.
thanks.
- Indawoods
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All the platers will do is clean your cylinder and plate the bore... nothing else unless you are getting something fancy.
I do not know what you are talking about on the Allen Plug however....
I do not know what you are talking about on the Allen Plug however....
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****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
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I dont think langcourt will do anything with the ports if you request a bore increase, and increasing bore will alter port timing. In a bad way? Dunno.
Looks just like a freeze/casting plug...No need to mess with it for replate.
Looks just like a freeze/casting plug...No need to mess with it for replate.
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- canyncarvr
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That plug's in the water jacket, ain't it? The best source for the correct answer is Langcourt. As unnecessary as removal of a water jacket plug would seem to me...I'm not doing the work. For all I know the electrical charges involved in a replate job fuses all separate metal parts!
Langcourt has a good reputation on this side of the puddle, too.
Don't forget some pics of the finished product!!
Thanks!
Langcourt has a good reputation on this side of the puddle, too.
Don't forget some pics of the finished product!!
Thanks!
Consider the source
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- canyncarvr
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So...where are the plugs for the subport drum rods?
Seems odd they would replace the one..but not those?
Seems odd they would replace the one..but not those?
Consider the source
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Check to be sure the right hand subport actuating rod moves smoothly in its bore......
That rod has a o-ring/packing/seal on it that keeps ehaust gasses from blowing by. The plating process can leave the inside of that bore rough and the rod can therefore not move as smothly as it needs to.
The whole KIPS mechanism should move smooth as silk..
That rod has a o-ring/packing/seal on it that keeps ehaust gasses from blowing by. The plating process can leave the inside of that bore rough and the rod can therefore not move as smothly as it needs to.
The whole KIPS mechanism should move smooth as silk..
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'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
KX100 for the boy
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KarlP wrote:Check to be sure the right hand subport actuating rod moves smoothly in its bore......
That rod has a o-ring/packing/seal on it that keeps ehaust gasses from blowing by. The plating process can leave the inside of that bore rough and the rod can therefore not move as smothly as it needs to.
The whole KIPS mechanism should move smooth as silk..
karl,it was rough in there.the left had rod went in easily.i had to clean the right side casting out.i wish now that i had been more thorough as the actuation of the kips felt a little stiffer than before the rebuild.
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