Loose Gear Lever KDX220
-
- Member
- Posts: 235
- Joined: 04:47 pm Mar 19 2009
- Country:
Loose Gear Lever KDX220
Team,
I have recently acquired an OEM new gear lever for this bike - as a lot of play was evident in the previous lever that was on the bike.
I put this new lever on and still the same play is evident.
The shaft teeth stilll appear unworn and in good condition.
I cannot wiggle the shaft at all.
PLease help me resolve this wonkiness in my gear shifting.
Should I change shift shaft or should i simply red locktite the lever to the shaft?
Byte
I have recently acquired an OEM new gear lever for this bike - as a lot of play was evident in the previous lever that was on the bike.
I put this new lever on and still the same play is evident.
The shaft teeth stilll appear unworn and in good condition.
I cannot wiggle the shaft at all.
PLease help me resolve this wonkiness in my gear shifting.
Should I change shift shaft or should i simply red locktite the lever to the shaft?
Byte
- Indawoods
- Creator and Founder
- Posts: 9951
- Joined: 09:59 am Jun 12 2003
- Country:
- Location: Midwest
You need to get down and really eyeball what is going on before trying to come up with solutions. What you perceive as play on the lever may actually be that the shaft is moving with the lever and it is not the lever at all...
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- skipro3
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4329
- Joined: 11:58 pm Nov 04 2004
- Country:
- Location: BANNED FOR LIFE!!
- Contact:
If the shift lever bolt is tighened and there's play between the shift lever and the shaft, then remove some material in the slot of the lever so that by tightening it, the splined opening can be pulled tighter.
I hope that makes sense...
I hope that makes sense...
Jerry
I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
- Indawoods
- Creator and Founder
- Posts: 9951
- Joined: 09:59 am Jun 12 2003
- Country:
- Location: Midwest
I have never done anything to mine.. been on there for years with no play whatsoever....
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- skipro3
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4329
- Joined: 11:58 pm Nov 04 2004
- Country:
- Location: BANNED FOR LIFE!!
- Contact:
I can only think that the Aussie version has a different sized shaft and that the lever is for an American bike. Or some such combination. You might be able to check part #'s for US vs Aussie bike parts and see if there's a difference.
Jerry
I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
- Dewey
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 88
- Joined: 12:50 pm Jul 31 2007
- Country:
- Location: South Central TN
I have not had a problem with the KDX, but my son races quads and we have had problems with after market shifters not staying tight. You might want to check into Industrial Loctite 609 or 620. It is for mounting bearing on shafts and is designed to fill very small gaps in mating surfaces. This is NOT the thread Loctite, you usually have to get it from and industrial supply company. I clean the mating surfaces well with brake cleaner and them fill the splines with the Loctite 609 and immediately install the shift lever and tighten to spec. Let the compound cure completely before riding or moving the lever around.
Not the perfect solution, but has proven to work pretty well for me. As Skipro3 said be sure there is enough gap in the split part of the lever so the bolt can pull it down tight. I have seen where a ding would push the metal up into the slot and prevent it from clamping tight also. You should be able to clamp it down tight without anything to fill in the splines. The Loctite just helps fill in the areas where the splines are not touching so you have more mating surface and helps it stay tight.
Not the perfect solution, but has proven to work pretty well for me. As Skipro3 said be sure there is enough gap in the split part of the lever so the bolt can pull it down tight. I have seen where a ding would push the metal up into the slot and prevent it from clamping tight also. You should be able to clamp it down tight without anything to fill in the splines. The Loctite just helps fill in the areas where the splines are not touching so you have more mating surface and helps it stay tight.
Dewey
02 -KDX220
02 -KDX220
-
- Member
- Posts: 235
- Joined: 04:47 pm Mar 19 2009
- Country:
-
- Member
- Posts: 235
- Joined: 04:47 pm Mar 19 2009
- Country:
If Loctitie 620 or 609 Industrial Strength was used and then the lever had to be removed at a later date - how woudl the lever be removed wiht it being stuck in there?Dewey wrote:I have not had a problem with the KDX, but my son races quads and we have had problems with after market shifters not staying tight. You might want to check into Industrial Loctite 609 or 620. It is for mounting bearing on shafts and is designed to fill very small gaps in mating surfaces. This is NOT the thread Loctite, you usually have to get it from and industrial supply company. I clean the mating surfaces well with brake cleaner and them fill the splines with the Loctite 609 and immediately install the shift lever and tighten to spec. Let the compound cure completely before riding or moving the lever around.
Not the perfect solution, but has proven to work pretty well for me. As Skipro3 said be sure there is enough gap in the split part of the lever so the bolt can pull it down tight. I have seen where a ding would push the metal up into the slot and prevent it from clamping tight also. You should be able to clamp it down tight without anything to fill in the splines. The Loctite just helps fill in the areas where the splines are not touching so you have more mating surface and helps it stay tight.
Also, it has just been observed that 1mm daylight gap exists (all around shaft) between the shaft spline teeth and the sheath internal thread of the brand new OEM gear shift lever - with the lever bolt tightened to spec.
There is no wear in the spline teeth and no free movement in the shaft.
How much (mm) meat/metal should I remove to increase the clamping gap of this lever so that the lever can be clamped tighter?
Byte
- skipro3
- Gold Member
- Posts: 4329
- Joined: 11:58 pm Nov 04 2004
- Country:
- Location: BANNED FOR LIFE!!
- Contact:
Well, that's gonna just be an experiment. I'd start off in small increments removing the metal to make for a larger gap.
It sure doesn't sound like you have the right lever for your shaft though. I'm suspecting that the R version is different than a US version and this may be one of those parts that are different. Not that you can't "fix" and make it work. You just want to be sure the # of splines to the number of teeth are matching before clamping down on it good and tight.
Jerry
It sure doesn't sound like you have the right lever for your shaft though. I'm suspecting that the R version is different than a US version and this may be one of those parts that are different. Not that you can't "fix" and make it work. You just want to be sure the # of splines to the number of teeth are matching before clamping down on it good and tight.
Jerry
Jerry
I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
- Dewey
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 88
- Joined: 12:50 pm Jul 31 2007
- Country:
- Location: South Central TN
I agree with Skipro3, it sounds like you have the wrong lever. 1 mm is a huge gap in mating surfaces. Does your old lever have this much gap?
As far as the loctite compound goes I use the 609 and you can apply some moderate heat with a heat gun to soften the compound. However the 620 is the high heat version so that may not work as well. I use the 609 and it hasn't been a problem with removing. Caution - do not over heat the shaft!
Dang, I can't concentrate with Skipro's avatar!
As far as the loctite compound goes I use the 609 and you can apply some moderate heat with a heat gun to soften the compound. However the 620 is the high heat version so that may not work as well. I use the 609 and it hasn't been a problem with removing. Caution - do not over heat the shaft!
Dang, I can't concentrate with Skipro's avatar!
Dewey
02 -KDX220
02 -KDX220
- ihatefalling
- Supporting Member
- Posts: 410
- Joined: 09:30 am Jul 20 2008
- Country:
Hey guys...after riding this weekend I notice my shift lever was flopping around too. Shaft looks tight (did I just say that?).
Shift lever bolt was tighened pretty good. I guess I need to remove it and try the "shave a little metal from the mating surfaces" fix. I tried loosening the bolt that holds it on but couldn't get the lever to slide off the shaft. So I stopped there. Do I need to just need to try and yank it harder (did I just say that too?) or do I need to totally remove the bolt and get a screwdriver in there and pry it open? Make sense? I don't want to goof the lever up if it is salvagable....thx
Shift lever bolt was tighened pretty good. I guess I need to remove it and try the "shave a little metal from the mating surfaces" fix. I tried loosening the bolt that holds it on but couldn't get the lever to slide off the shaft. So I stopped there. Do I need to just need to try and yank it harder (did I just say that too?) or do I need to totally remove the bolt and get a screwdriver in there and pry it open? Make sense? I don't want to goof the lever up if it is salvagable....thx
Last edited by ihatefalling on 10:43 am Oct 26 2009, edited 1 time in total.
2005 KDX 220
R&B Carb Mod
R&B Head Mod
Fork Swap - 99 KX125 Valved for B woods plush
FMF Gnarley
Airbox Mod
Tagged
R&B Carb Mod
R&B Head Mod
Fork Swap - 99 KX125 Valved for B woods plush
FMF Gnarley
Airbox Mod
Tagged
-
- Supporting Member III
- Posts: 1484
- Joined: 02:26 pm Jun 29 2005
- Country:
- Location: Alabama
-
- Member
- Posts: 192
- Joined: 09:39 pm Dec 01 2004
- Country:
- Location: Huntsville Al
Yes you should have to remove that bolt completely. If you do not want to buy a new lever or trust loc tite glue to get you around in the woods you can tack weld yours to the shaft and grind the weld off next time you crash it up. Last week I got a IMS lever for less than 30 bucks that bolted on real tight and looks good too. I also like the way the end folds over better than the stock one.
its a '04 KDX 220 cadillac
-
- Member
- Posts: 235
- Joined: 04:47 pm Mar 19 2009
- Country:
I have the US imported version bike and purchased/imported the OEM lever from USA.skipro3 wrote:Well, that's gonna just be an experiment. I'd start off in small increments removing the metal to make for a larger gap.
It sure doesn't sound like you have the right lever for your shaft though. I'm suspecting that the R version is different than a US version and this may be one of those parts that are different. Not that you can't "fix" and make it work. You just want to be sure the # of splines to the number of teeth are matching before clamping down on it good and tight.
Jerry
I have not yet closed this gap but need to.
Byte