KIPS actuator gear alignment

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pjmac28
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KIPS actuator gear alignment

Post by pjmac28 »

Picked up a '01 220 for $1300 over the winter and after finding out the V-Force pedal had broken off into the engine and decided to maintenance the top end. New Wiseco piston, cleaned the KIPS, new gaskets etc. Haven't gotten a manual yet due to it was a debate of KDXRider stickers/Scotts Dampener/service manual. I chose the first two, the manual is next. I do have cyclepedia but it is not detailed in the KIPS portion.

I had found a post here that had a diagram from a manual of the power valves where someone had some questions on the install of the power valves but have not been able to locate the post. When I reassembled the KIPS I ran into the same problem that was in the post where the gear on the actuator (left side when facing the exhaust port) didn't have the 'notch' or the white paint to indicate where the gear is set when I disassembled the KIPS. Even though the rod that pulls, for better words, the exhaust tongue, back there is only two orientations it can be in due to the screw that attaches the rod (center of the rod) to the 'exhaust tongue' (can't remember what that is called).

I am sure I got he power valves in correctly and the gears that rotate them. My question is if I start up the bike and either the actuator gear is not positioned properly what can I expect or is there any concerns I should be worried about? Even though I am pretty sure I am going to take the top end back apart because I am questioning myself or at least the actuator gear cover, I still may attempt to fire it up anyway. Just seemed that it was off by a tooth or two from recollection when I disassembled it from reassembly but maybe I was wrong since I didn't have any markings to go by on reassembly.
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

There should be a divet on the top of the gear over the tooth on the actuating gear that shows contact point on the rotating assembly for the KIPS. If not it looks to be the second tooth from the right that is making contact.
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Post by Indawoods »

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Post by canyncarvr »

The KIPS goes together ONE way correctly. If you manually 'activate' it and 'stuff' moves like it's supposed to...it's right.

That's been my experience anyway. I haven't tried every convolution of put-together just to see what happens.

Anyone that knows different, I'd like to hear about it.

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Post by Indawoods »

Well... I didn't go through the trouble of warming up my scanner, getting the manual and scanning the page, editing it, uploading it and finally posting it for nothin!

You best use my pic! :evil:
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Post by canyncarvr »

The next time you DO go through all that trouble..see if you can find something to scan that fits the model year in question. :grin:

When the main rod is 'detented' via the spring/ball on the LH (shifter) side and the governor rod (coming up from the RH case) is in a 'closed' state (at rest), just place the gear segment 'claw' piece on top of the rod where it fits and tighten it up (while supporting the shaft!!).

Manually activate the KIPS via the nut on the LH end of the main shaft, ensure the subport drums rotate in sync from the same stopped point TO the same fully activated positions.

You can do it all without no marks nowhere if you keep in mind what the result is supposed to be. Might take a try or two if you didn't have any marks, but it's doable.

Re: 'My question is if I start up the bike and either the actuator gear is not positioned properly what can I expect or is there any concerns I should be worried about?

No damage will take place if something is not aligned. The bike won't run well if the KIPS is not aligned properly..but you're not going to break anything.

..could be a bit hard to start...depending on how BADLY it's misaligned.

How'd it turn out? Good?

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Post by Indawoods »

er... that's straight out of my manual! :?
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Post by canyncarvr »

I'm missing the 3D part that's missing in the 2D pic, I think. I can't make it look like what I know it looks like...when I'm looking at it!

I don't see the 90º part of it that the 'H' advancer shaft has to the main shaft.

I'll look at my manual when I get home...maybe after some Southern Comfort, Bicardi, TripleSec, Malibu Coconut, Grenadine and a touch of fruit juice (gott'a drink healthy yanno!) in a big 'ol tall glass...it'll make sense!

Yeah. I'm sure of it!!

:partyman:

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Post by pjmac28 »

Thanks for the pic Indawoods. If my memory recalls me ( :lol: ) that is how I put it back together.

Canyncarvr I think you hit the nail on the head with your description. If my memory recalls on how I put it back together with the detended ball and the actuator shaft at rest and verifying the drums were in sych , then you just verified that I was correct in reassembly. I feel a little better of not tearing down the top end again.

Haven't attempted to start the bike yet. I need to go pick up some tranny lube. Tomorrow or this weekend I should have some progress if I put it back together correctly.

I did read a post where you, Indawoods, had a question as to why the drums seemed to either be only fully closed or fully open. Did you ever figure out what that was? I would assume it would have been because drums were not in sych with the gears? (Another one of those lurking things in the back of my noggin)

Thanks again for all the help! :partyman:
Last edited by pjmac28 on 09:16 pm Mar 19 2009, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by pjmac28 »

My blundering self just found my rebuild pics on my desktop. Maybe I should have went by this! :blink:

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Post by lemmy »

I had a small hole on the lever but I didn't have a notched (as the factory manual states) or painted (as cyclepedia says) tooth. I just put mine together with what seemed correct and it works fine.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Hey! My manual looks just like Inda's!! Amazing!!

Engine top-end pg. 4-8.

Makes exactly the same amount of sense to me as Inda's pic, too. :neutral:

I put a note in my manual, 'Main shaft..full CCW when assembled. Driver (on top of actuator shaft) is pinned, marked to fit w/tooth that has white paint. I see no punch on the gear...just paint.'

I might have missed the notch in the tooth if I was looking for a punch ON the tooth.

I know the notched teeth on my subvalves weren't real easy to see. They were there though.

I don't think I've actually read the manual but once. Other times, I put it together like it seems right..check the timing when I'm done.

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Post by pjmac28 »

Took the chance today that my memory still served me well and attempted to start the bike. Other than I forgot I had the SA plug still in after about 25 kicks, going over fuel system, being de-fuddeled since it was first start after a rebuild, the bike fired right up.

Still in the break in process so I haven't really had it high enough in the RPMs to see if I got it right but so far it sounds as it should. Rode it around for about 5-10 minutes for the first ride break in.

Did notice a couple things to go over. Fuel petcock doesn't seem to want to allow fuel in the normal 'down' position, works though for the reserve 'up' position. Probably take out the petcock and go through it to make sure it is all clear. Was one of those things I didn't go through on the rebuild.

When the bike is idling the RPMs go up and down quite a few hundred RPMs. This is not a rapid change, more as though 10 to 20 secs or so at the lower RPM then 10 to 20 secs or so later it will increase. It will oscillate in this pattern. I also noticed if the bike is sitting vertical or on the kickstand postition affects the RPM of the idle. I am sure I put the float back to the default specifications.

I may have a leaky air screw, it doesn't seem to take change to it unless you really adjust the screw. don't know if that is related the oscillation I am experiencing. I hate the factory air screw anyway.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: 'When the bike is idling the RPMs go up and down quite a few hundred RPMs.'

One of the symptoms of an air leak. Usually faster than the period you mention..10-20 seconds.

But...you already know that, having said: ' I may have a leaky air screw..'

But #2..air leaks that cause idle oscillations or hi idle surges are downstream...not upstream.

If the pilot jet is on the large side, the air screw will tend to have less effect than if the pilot was a 'better' selection.

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