KDXRIDER.NET

do the boysen 607 reeds fit the stock reed block on my 03 220 ? whats the differnce between the 607 and the rad reeds ? thanx

Yes.... 607's are a much better reed than the RAD setup for a KDX .... The RAD is a new cage and reeds. You must have the RAD cage to use the RAD reeds.

I like the 607's just fine but do yourself a favor and check out the Moto Tassinari Delta V Force 3 reeds and cage....

http://www.mototassinari.com/

The V Force 3's are more expensive than the 607s but they provided a performance advantage on my 220.

If you go with the V Force system try ebay to save a few bucks . . .
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VFORCE-V ... ccessories

Hey guys........I recently got a huge parts lot off of Flea-Bay that included a V-Force Delta 2 system (I'll only have to replace the Delta reeds since the ones in it now I'm not sure I trust...they don't look all that great)

Is fitting the Delta2 a problem on the stock air-boot?
From what I have read it has to be altered somewhat.

Is the older Delta 2 system good enough in comparison to the Boyeson 607's I'm currently using now to warrant changing the Boyesons out to the Delta 2 system?

The bike is a 1991 KDX-200 E-3 --
FMF Gold K-14 pipe & stock KDX silencer
Fredette Torque ring
12/47 gearing
Airbox lid removed
1173 needle / 2nd position from top
Airscrew - 1 turn
Jetting seems pretty close but I assume it still has the factory 158 main and the 48 slowjet...not really sure what is in the carb..
It runs well (knock wood) without too much spooge anyway.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
My first post here and this is a helluva website I have to say..

I'm running a VFD2 on my '92

I had to sand down the sides with a belt sander to get it to fit just right

it'll blow the doors off 607's, hands down

That's good to know Mr. Wibbens....looks like I better get out the old sander then.... did you have to sand the reed cage slightly or the intake rubber??

The cage, it would not fit into the intake of the cylinder

10-4 Captain.........I appreciate the information very much.

The II is a good setup.

But...something to keep in mind: There are two different reed stops for the II. There are two different reed TENSIONS for the II. Each reed stop has two different SETTINGS, one for 'hi' one for 'lo' tension.

I've tried 'em all. My preference (keep in mind on an 'H' bike) was the LO tension reed stop, set TO low, with the LO tension reed.

If they don't look 'great'...replacing them is probably a good idea. Generally, a reed is worn out long before it LOOKS like anything is wrong with it. I've broken 607s..and they still LOOKED fine.

..well...except for where they was BROKE!

**edit**

I'd just delete some of the above...but maybe somebody already read it.

There may well not be any choices for the II as noted above. It's been some years since I changed to a III..haven't had to get replacement parts for a II. It was quite a few years back I had the chance to be on the original sorting out of the MotoTassinari II reed setup for the KDX. MT didn't make a II (there was no III then) for the KDX and they were looking for riders to give them some feedback on what they had in mind. It was the 'lo-lo-lo' that I ended up with, but that result came from talking to Jeff (the then MT guru at MT). He was the one that offered the different choices. When I did order replacement reeds, I got them only by talking with Jeff. He also offered the lower tension stop. For all I know, there aren't any such choices any more. IF you are ordering new reeds for your II, it's worth a call to MT, ask if Jeff is still about. He will know what they have...what they don't.

canyncarvr...the reeds are toast for sure.

I talked to those folks yesterday ( not Jeff/I just now read your post ) and they were super helpful........talked to one of their tech people too and got some much needed info.

Was considering a Moose spacer also while I'm changing it all over but I'll be damned if it looks like there is ANY room to install ANYTHING with extra thickness given the tight tolerance between the cylinder/intake side and the air-box.

...how do you guys fit a spacer in there????

It's a spacer in itself.... no need for an additional one.

Re: '..how do you guys fit a spacer ..'

Now THERE'S a question with a VERY simple answer!!!



'We' don't!!

There has been a reference or two to intake spacers over the years. I don't recall anything of value coming from it.

Besides...as you say...it wouldn't fit 'fer diddle.

THIS is a reed that's toast:



It's a Boyesen RadValve reed..one year old. I've seen worse condition RadValve reeds..also about a year old. Yet another reason (besides the fact that it don't work 'fer crap to start with) to stay away from a RadValve.

Thanks much for the info gentlemen.

I'll $h*tcan the idea for the Moose spacer while I'm in there rooting around.

I'm already using a Fredette Torque ring so I can live without another gizmo.

Seems like half of the fun for me is working on these bikes to get 'em tip-top.

I snagged a new (89-94) KDX Maier headlight shell form Flea-Bay this afternoon....no headlight included obviously but I'll hunt down a Halogen 35 watter from NAPA or somewhere.

Do you fellows know the height/width dimensions for the typical (stock) headlight for these little rockets??

Thanks Again

Your referring to the bulb itself? Probably not.

The OEM shell? I have one I can measure up...if you will tell me why it matters, which might generate enough interest on my part to go out into the dark and cold of the night to dig it out of storage and actually measure something.........

The bulb itself Buddy..........thanks!

That's a known configuration. Sorry...I'm not going looking for it. 'J' comes to mind. Some 'sub-type' would be part of that. You don't need height, length...or any of that...just the 'type' of bulb it is. Try RonAyers for that.

I know that bulb is used in some John Deere equipment. Take the bulb to a dealer, they would probably know what it is.

Besides...what is the point? You want to know so you can replace it? It's not worth a lot of time trying to find the base 'type' of that bulb..for no reason in particular.


Something like this:

http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/01-6245J.html

The OEM bulb is a twin-filament, shell grounded unit. Only one filament is used at a time. ..which is why you can 're-use' a burnt out one by joining the bottom tabs and using the 'new' one.

I already spent too much time looking for what I think you could easily find yourself. Helping out is fine. Answering questions for those that don't want to spend the time looking themselves gets tiresome. No..I don't know what that has to with anyone in particular. Ask a wide-open question, get no answers. Condsider US English and The Queen's English to be an impediment you need to handle.

Pfftt!!



The fate of Planet Earth is not currently in danger so calm down Beavis.


Too much caffeine or are basic reading comprehension skills evading and plaguing you??




"snagged a new (89-94) KDX Maier headlight shell from Flea-Bay this afternoon....no headlight included obviously but I'll hunt down a Halogen 35 watter from NAPA or somewhere."



"Do you fellows know the height/width dimensions for the typical (stock) headlight for these little rockets??"

Simple enough inquiry (for most) but I appreciate the Sermon .. it was slightly amusing.

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This is NOT that kind of forum. We do not flame on this forum so keep the silly kids stuff for when your with the kids....

I'll make a note of that Sir.

Unprovoked attacks seem fine though if you have enough posts.


"I already spent too much time looking for what I think you could easily find yourself. Helping out is fine. Answering questions for those that don't want to spend the time looking themselves gets tiresome. No..I don't know what that has to with anyone in particular. Ask a wide-open question, get no answers. Condsider US English and The Queen's English to be an impediment you need to handle."





I understand the rules now....crystal clear.