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FIXEN TO DO MY SONS AND MINE IS THERE ANYTHING THAT I NEED TO KNOW BEFORE I START. ANYTHING THAT I NEED FROM THE OLD PACKING THAT I NEED TO KEEP. THANKS FOR ANY HELP

Anything you need to know?

Guess that depends on what you know now.

Some 2T packing, allen wrenches, masking tape, RTV silicone, a wire brush..that should do it.

Nothing is kept from the old packing.

If you end up with much of anything of the new packing left over, you need to re-think your procedure. It'll all fit in there.

THANKS FOR THE ADVICE.

A bit off topic but I use "house insulant" instead of "real motorcycle packing". Any reason not to do it? Never used the "real stuff" cuz I'm too cheap, just wondered what the differences are aside the price.
I usually repack 3-4 times a year and can't notice any difference performance wise before/after repacking ...

Here's a tip.

Never ever drink beer then get the big idea to repack your muff. I was half shizt-faced and started repack'n the muff, sitting on a stool, WITH SHORTS ON and did it on my lap.

Beer wears off, fiberglass stays put in your legs for days.


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I used house insulation for exhaust repack once for the very same reason, cheap. It lasted about a month. Just spend the money and do it right the first time.

Masking tape ?

Fiberglass ?

NewMexico505 wrote:I used house insulation for exhaust repack once for the very same reason, cheap. It lasted about a month. Just spend the money and do it right the first time.

Ditto.

It don't work.

'Don't work' meaning it doesn't last, it does burn, it doesn't...well..work.

I tried 4T packing once, too. It didn't work, either.

BTW, there is a lot assumed here.

There is NO information as to what is expected to be repacked except 'exhaust'..which tells no one anything. NOT all 'exhaust' can be repacked and some pack differently from others.

Wibby's completely senseless post is likely referring to the fact that he likes to use the string stuff. That product isn't going to work in an 'H' or 'A' model TCII or PC S/A unless you repack by taking the arrestor out and leaving the silencer portion intact.

Good luck with that. I tried it once..ruined the entire unit. The arrestor came out only with severe damage to it and the cannister. That has not been the case every time it's been tried.

I, too, have tried the insulation fiberglass and agree with those above - don't waste your time. Maybe there's some "grade" of the stuff that might be more useful but don't know where to find it.

The Moose Racing 2T packing works fine and is a shade cheaper than the FMF stuff (one of my few successes with Moose Racing products). I don't know which (Moose or FMF) has a greater longevity because I change packing out probably 4 times a year and they look about the same - goo on the inside of the wrap, fairly clean on the outside. I always wonder if I'm doing it right because some directions say to wrap "snugly", some "tightly", a matter of subjectivity I think, so I change often.

I used "Lexx 2-stroke packing" once. You can find it on Rockymountainmc. Very dense, looks more like batting. I had trouble installing it because I tried to shove too much in there but it seemed to work well. Anybody try the stuff?