K&S Switches

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theckeler
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K&S Switches

Post by theckeler »

Anyone use a K&S switch (looking at the K&S Mini Headlight Switch with Kill Function) for your headlight? I want to put a headlight back on and need a kill since I'm missing both.
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Don't need a switch for the headlight, unless you wanna turn it off
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theckeler
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Post by theckeler »

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Mr. Wibbens wrote:Don't need a switch for the headlight, unless you wanna turn it off
Ya would be nice to turn it on and off... guess I could just wire it to stay on.
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jc7622
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Post by jc7622 »

My light switch got damaged, so I put a toggle switch on my headlight. I can take some pictures if you want to see it.
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Post by theckeler »

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jc7622 wrote:My light switch got damaged, so I put a toggle switch on my headlight. I can take some pictures if you want to see it.
Just a reg. olde switch, ya if you have picts, thanks!
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Post by canyncarvr »

1. I don't have a K&S switch and know no one that has one.

2. It looks to be a nice unit!


It looks kind'a like THIS.

IMO...you will be much better off with a switch that is at least 1/2 fast designed for the intended purpose over some kludge you make up yourself from hardware store selections.


That said...my lights and grip heat are switched/controlled with a kludge setup I made up myself from hardware store selections.



But...DennisKirk was fresh out of DPDT hannlebar switches when I was looking for 'em. Come to think about it, one switch DID come from Steahly OffRoad....

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Post by theckeler »

Got another question since I'm on the topic, it looks as if my voltage regulator was replaced with something else. Guessing who had this bike last put on signals, brake lights, etc... anyhow the wiring is a huge mess. I don't care to or plan to put lights, signals and the like on it, mostly because of the cost. Anyhow, I'm either going to just try and buy a wiring and reg. from ebay or try to rewire it myself and just get a reg. How difficult is it for the average person to rewire a bike?
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Post by canyncarvr »

Not a problem. Use decent connectors..something weather protected if you can.

The basic wiring diagram is pretty simple:

Image

Yes...that is for a '91 250..but not significantly different from anything else. Which, btw, you didn't mention what bike you're talking about.


If you are going to wire in brake hi/low lights and stuff...gertie6 posted a very nice drawing awhile back:

Here!

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Post by theckeler »

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canyncarvr wrote:Not a problem. Use decent connectors..something weather protected if you can.

The basic wiring diagram is pretty simple:

Yes...that is for a '91 250..but not significantly different from anything else. Which, btw, you didn't mention what bike you're talking about.


If you are going to wire in brake hi/low lights and stuff...gertie6 posted a very nice drawing awhile back:
KDX200 1995... got the manual with the diagram and does seem simple on the surface ha... few questions since you know about this stuff. What wire is best to use? What wrapping is good?
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Post by theckeler »

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canyncarvr wrote:If you are going to wire in brake hi/low lights and stuff...gertie6 posted a very nice drawing awhile back:

Here!
Wow that looks a lot like what I have going on, can't wait to compare the colors to my wiring, hope it's close and maybe I can use the existing with a new switch.
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Post by canyncarvr »

I don't have a make/model/year of wire to give you. Anything suitable for 12V automotive use will work. Of course...the bigger the better (within reason). A 24awg wire will carry the voltage, but 20' or so of it is going to have a considerable resistance to current (someone's gotta have something to say about THAT choice of words I'm sure!), and a resultant voltage drop. Vice versa, neither do you need something that will handle 30 amps. The bike only puts out about four amps.

Some particular wiring applications work better with a particular wire. I use test lead wire for example on my grip heaters because it is very flexible, fine wired, and thickly insulated.

Generally...many fine conductors in a wire will work better than fewer larger conductors in a vibrating, bouncing mess of an environment a dirtbike lives in.

Wrapping? Not sure what you mean by that.

Do some shopping at your local automotive supply place. Any one you choose should have everything you need.

Don't overthink it. Good wire, decent connectors and attentive assembly of the pieces will work just fine.

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Post by theckeler »

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canyncarvr wrote:Wrapping? Not sure what you mean by that.
Thanks for the info... keeping all the wire together. I've used that shrink stuff before, pretty sure you can get it longer?
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Post by jc7622 »

Here is a pic of my toggle switch for the headlight. I mounted it through the plastic mounting tab on the headlight housing. It is out of the way and safe from damage, but easy to get to considering it is a headlight switch that won't be used that much. I got it at Ace. It came with a little rubber boot for the toggle. I'm don't know how water resistant the back side is. I might put a little slilcone in the rivet holes an wire opening. I also helped to clean up a crowded handlebar.



Image
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Post by theckeler »

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jc7622 wrote:Here is a pic of my toggle switch for the headlight. I mounted it through the plastic mounting tab on the headlight housing. It is out of the way and safe from damage, but easy to get to considering it is a headlight switch that won't be used that much. I got it at Ace. It came with a little rubber boot for the toggle. I'm don't know how water resistant the back side is. I might put a little slilcone in the rivet holes an wire opening. I also helped to clean up a crowded handlebar.
Nice job... thanks. Gives me some ideas on how to proceed. I just got a Acerbis Dimension Headlight off ebay for $55 (score), when the weather gets better here hopefully using my existing wiring it will light up. Add a toggle or switch too it if all goes well.
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Post by canyncarvr »

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theckeler wrote:>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:Wrapping? Not sure what you mean by that.
Thanks for the info... keeping all the wire together. I've used that shrink stuff before, pretty sure you can get it longer?

There is plastic tubing meant for protecting wiring..the bendy split stuff you can put on even after the wires are connected?

Like this:

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