Eletrical help

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zombiescustoms
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Eletrical help

Post by zombiescustoms »

OK I got the wiring figured out thanks to everyone here but I can not get the lights to work on my KDX250, I have 9-12vAC power at the light sockets but the lights do not work, is there something that converts it to DC power???

I'm not well versed in AC vs. DC but I thought most lights worked on DC

I just put new bulbs in and nothing :?
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

Something else is wrong.

The lights in the bike are rated at 12VDC...but they work on the bike's AC.

Hook your light/socket up to a 12V battery...or use a battery charger..see if that works. It probably won't.

Having power 'at the light sockets' doesn't mean it's getting through the bulb.

Do you happen to have that measured voltage on both terminals of the socket? That would mean you're missing a ground. You could check that power is getting through the socket and bulb by disconnecting the ground side. You should see source voltage on both socket terminals/wires/connectors at that point.

Doesn't happen too often, but it is possible that you can use the resistance/ohm scales of the meter to find there is continuity through the socket/bulb, ground is good..and it still won't light. That's a btw..and likely has nothing to do with your situation. You need connections that will handle the current required to light the bulb. Meters don't put out any current of note.

Do some more testing..check continuity from the source connector of the bulb to frame ground. Try the battery charger idea to see what works, what don't.

That does NOT include a maintenance charger. I use those all over the place..mine generally put out 170ma. You aren't going to light up your bulb with that. A 6A charger will work fine. It will crowbar if it's shorted, light the bulb if the circuit is good. A battery..even a fairly small battery..will start smokin' stuff (test leads 'fer example) if it's shorted.

As to your question, '...is there something that converts it to DC power???'

Not on your bike. Obviously there are things that convert AC to DC...but you don't need it...unless you're talking about a bike that has a battery system, one that recharges the battery. Gotta have DC for that.

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zombiescustoms
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Post by zombiescustoms »

OK I got the grounds fixed and I GOT LIGHTS!! well for a little while any way, as soon as I took it for a ride the both burned out, I think I need a new voltage regulator!
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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: ' I have 9-12vAC power..'

..you said, but didn't say at what RPM. How high does the voltage GET? 12VAC isn't going to blow out your lights.

If you have an intermittent connection to the regulator..such that it is not always in the circuit..that will blow your lights in a handful of milliseconds. You might never see it on a meter, either.

Check every connection to the regulator. If any of the connectors are only crimped...solder those. It looks to be a spade connector at the regulator itself. Clean that to spotless, squeeze the female connector some to get some more tension, put it back together with a suitable grease..something like GB OX-GARD.

Check ground connections the regulator uses, too.

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Post by zombiescustoms »

Well my 9-12vAC was at idle, I never checked it at half throttle, but I guess I will now! and I am going to pull all the connectors apart and put di-eletric grease in them. yhe plug at the regulator is a molded plastic with a push down lock wand the connectors inside.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Don't miss checking where the wire is connected to the 'connector' too..not just the connector. There's a release for those VR wires to get them out of the connector shell. Some of those releases are easy to figure out, some of them are darn near impossible.

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Post by zombiescustoms »

OK I found the ground wire going to the VR not connected in the plug, too late now to start it and check. will fire it tomorrow and see what the voltage readings are.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Ha!! You got it!!

Well...you're getting it anyway.

Good job!! Dang...I'm proud of 'ya!

'...not connected inside the plug'

It wouldn't be too hard to miss that. Bet'cha most folks would simply reseat the connector and call it good.

I'll bet'cha too that someone gave up on keeping lights in that bike a long time ago.....


I like it when things get fixed!!! :shock:

Well...I didn't enjoy it too much, but that's another story! :neutral:

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Post by zombiescustoms »

IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!, Actually got to ride it for about an hour today, put on some new grips and welded up the crack in the silencer, other than that It's ready to go, runs real good. :supz: :supz: :supz:
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Post by canyncarvr »

I like it I like it I like it!!!

Dang! Sometimes you just HAVE to be happy about very small things that work out well...even if they ain't your things!

BTW: That wire broke for a reason. Look into restraining wire movement going into the connector..or maybe put a plug of sillycone IN the backside of the connector to stop wire movement at a very critical connection..heatshrink the connection..at least put some GOOD (not the $.79 a roll vinyl crap) electrical tape wrap on it. Use some Scotch Super 33+. It's a lot more than $.79 a roll...and worth it.

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zombiescustoms
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Post by zombiescustoms »

I used the Super 33 on it and some of the other areas of concern, when I get some time I'm going to see about making a new harness, and put a switch in for the lights using Elektralink™ connectors to replace the crap that is there now.
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Post by canyncarvr »

I used the Super 33 on it....
:shock:

I'm impressed.

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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Super 33? :?
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