Here is my new addition and I'm officially a KDX owner!

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zombiescustoms
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Here is my new addition and I'm officially a KDX owner!

Post by zombiescustoms »

Just picked up a 1992 KDX 250, I ended up trading a R/C boat I was trying to sell for it so not out any cash, but what I had in the boat which was not much,everything in the motor is brand new including the cylinder and power valves, piston and rod all new crank bearings, and clutch, the suspension was set up for about the same weight as I am and it seems good, no bottoming out, it starts up easy and has plenty of power and you can lug the crap out of it, I dyed the seat and it still has the stock pipe on it which I will most likely change but it is nice and quiet! I need to figure out how to hook the lights up, any one have a wiring diagram ?? Anyway here are the pics:
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

YIKES! :shock:
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Post by canyncarvr »

That's one helluva R/C boat you got there!! Wiring is generally simple enough...unless someone has hacked it to perdition. It's still got the light shell on it...so maybe the bulb is just out? You have a meter? Know what to do with it?

I have a wiring diagram for an 'H' model (not a KDX250) around somewhere. There are some 250 riders 'round that could answer any specific question, I'm sure.

Welcome to the fam!

...where's ur kickstand? :shock:

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Post by zombiescustoms »

I need to find a kickstand, the red wire that goes to the rear light has continuity but the light switch is missing, I was going to wire up a waterproof toggle switch. any Idea what wire to check to see if the lighting coil has any output?
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Post by Indawoods »

>|<>QBB<
Mr. Wibbens wrote:YIKES! :shock:
What do ya mean Wibs? That's a perfect Wookie machine! :supz:
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

That blue hurts me eyes!

But now I know what color to NOT paint my frame, not that I would do something so foolish as PAINT my frame :lol:





BTW, unless you want to be able to turn the lite on and off, you don't need to wire in a switch
Last edited by Mr. Wibbens on 07:57 pm Dec 28 2008, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by canyncarvr »

>|<>QBB<
zombiescustoms wrote:I need to find a kickstand, the red wire that goes to the rear light has continuity but the light switch is missing, I was going to wire up a waterproof toggle switch. any Idea what wire to check to see if the lighting coil has any output?
Not to be snide...but the wire from the lighting coil would be good, wouldn't it?

Don't want to get into a big explanation of 'the way things work' on a KDX250. I no nothing about 'em. Nothing said about an 'H' model bike need apply to you whatsoever.

FWIW, in an 'H' model 200, the wire from the light coil is yellow. It goes to the headlight switch. Yes, I read that you don't have a switch.

Without the proper schematic for your bike, one way to tell for sure what is what is to take the flywheel off to see what's attached to the lighting coil. Be pretty easy to tell if you HAD a lighting coil, then, too.

If you have only two wires coming from under the mag..you don't have a lighting coil.

Well, assuming the bike runs, anyway. :rolleyes:

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Post by Mountainman650 »

Here's a site with some good info on the KDX 250's ..
I have one, a 94' , and it is one fun bike , such a smooth and torquey powerband . That will get up and go when you need it to..
I must admit , I've never seen that color on a bike frame before...

http://www.garage.whatburns.com/KDX2.htm :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
94' KDX 250
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Post by zombiescustoms »

>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:>|<>QBB<
zombiescustoms wrote:I need to find a kickstand, the red wire that goes to the rear light has continuity but the light switch is missing, I was going to wire up a waterproof toggle switch. any Idea what wire to check to see if the lighting coil has any output?
Not to be snide...but the wire from the lighting coil would be good, wouldn't it?

Don't want to get into a big explanation of 'the way things work' on a KDX250. I no nothing about 'em. Nothing said about an 'H' model bike need apply to you whatsoever.

FWIW, in an 'H' model 200, the wire from the light coil is yellow. It goes to the headlight switch. Yes, I read that you don't have a switch.

Without the proper schematic for your bike, one way to tell for sure what is what is to take the flywheel off to see what's attached to the lighting coil. Be pretty easy to tell if you HAD a lighting coil, then, too.

If you have only two wires coming from under the mag..you don't have a lighting coil.

Well, assuming the bike runs, anyway. :rolleyes:
the bike runs just fine, there are 4 wires coming from the stator cover, so the yellow wire running up to the headlight area should have voltage?? how much and is it AC or DC?
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Post by canyncarvr »

We keep heading (I keep going) down a path that will likely contain some wrong information or at the least misleading information sooner or later. Hell..I'm wrong enough of the time when I think I know what I'm doing..let alone when I know I don't.

Using the web anytime on the weekends stinks, Sunday evening usually the worst..have been trying to get to http://www.buykawasaki.com with no luck the web is so balled up. Go there, look up your bike, see what you can find for wiring information.


No warranties expressed or implied, everything said applies to the'H'. To Your bike? Don't know:

The yellow wire is probably the hot from the lighting coil. It will be AC, as it's the product of a magnet spinning around a coil..and that AC will be unregulated. Speaking of which...where is your regulator? Do you have one? In the 'H' it's under the seat, bolted to the frame. It differs from the spark box in that it will have only two wires going to it...hot in, regulated AC out.

If the yellow wire is either disconnected or not connected to the regulator or load, you will see voltages approaching 100VAC as engine RPM increases. Bikes a bit older'n yours sometimes had no regulator at all..the system depended on lighting filaments for their 'regulation'.

If you have a regulator, it will be wired after the (missing) switch. When the switch is made, lighting coil output is connected to the regulator and the lights (or whatever load..I run grip heat 'fer instance). It is an AC regulator, and it will be around 13VAC depending on your light load, your light coil, and primarily the engine RPM.

OEM lighting coils are good for about 45 watts. The OEM headlight and taillight have it about maxed out.

Note the regulator not being switched into the circuit until the light switch is 'on'. That is of particular note when you are wiring up a new shell, or troubleshooting the lighting system. DO NOT FAIL to include the regulator when you are testing your lights or wiring. Ex: You loosen the shell from the clamps so you can get to the backside of it, disconnect the wiring headed toward the back of the bike for more clearance. To 'simply' find out if your lights work, you connect one side of the lamp to ground, the other side to the switch load tang. Start'er up. Hit the switch. Great! The light works! You blip the throttle to see how bright it gets....


...and it does get real bright...for a split second..and then it blows.

Why? 'Cuz you left out the wire going to the regulator.

Remember you are switching the regulator in AFTER the switch..it is in parallel with the lights!

One more time...all of the above applies to the 'H' model KDX.

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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

I looked all over the parts diagrams

I did not find the regulater
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Post by zombiescustoms »

There is a regulator listed in the parts diagram, and it sits under the seat attached to the air box, will teat there tomorrow, thanks for all the help so far!
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Post by canyncarvr »

How many wires are on that 'regulator' attached to the air box? Are there fins on it for heat dissipation.

1. The airbox isn't metal.
2. The VR needs a good ground.
3. The VR generates a good bit of heat.
4. Where is the spark box?

The answers to those questions will likely take you in a different direction.

This is from RonAyers. The Kaw site is still unavailable (better views there 'cuz you can move the parts list):

Image

There's the regulator. No wires shown to it in this pic..can't tell from looking at it what kind of connector it has...but there it is. Either save the pic and zoom it to make it easier to read, or take a look at RonAyer's site on your own 'puter.

**edit**..and it don't appear (if the graphic means anything) to have any fins on it, either. See? I told you going down the 'H' road was going to cause a problem..........
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Post by canyncarvr »

Seek and ye shall find.

Image


No warranties expressed or implied for this, neither! But...it looks good!

I'd be more'n happy to properly attribute the pic..but I don't know whose it is. It is from HERE!

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Post by zombiescustoms »

Sweet!!! I'll get the old meter out tonight and see if I can find some juice!!
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Post by canyncarvr »

Remember...AC...and LOTS'A volts until the regulator is in the circuit.

I wanna know about this part:

'and it sits under the seat attached to the air box,..'

:hmm:

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Post by zombiescustoms »

part 21066-1070 in the RonAyers diagram is attached to the front edge of the airbox, has a plug with 2 wires on it , I'll see if I can get a pic tonight.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Th'ar 'ya go.

The 'H' CDI (so-called sometimes...the sparky box) is attached to the airbox..thus the question. Also..with the heat generated by the VR..it would like being mounted to the frame over a plastic box.

Notice the 'fin' part. YOUR VR evidently doesn't have any...if you can trust the graphic (any you can't).

Cool! You're on your way!!

Follow the light....go to THE LIGHT!

:wink:

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Post by zombiescustoms »

OK I dug into the old basket last night and found out every thing is working as it should, I have about 10v AC at idle going to the lights, some moron put a 6v bulb in the headlight and there was no bulb in the taillight, off to the store I go today, and here are the pics of the voltage regulator:
Image
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