KDX wanting to move ahead a little with clutch pulled in.

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smuggler
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KDX wanting to move ahead a little with clutch pulled in.

Post by smuggler »

HI,
Just checked through forum for info on my subject but couldent find anything, so here goes... I have a 2001 KDX 220 with not many hours on it. When in neutral switching into 1st with clutch pulled in sometimes it will go in hard, with sort of a bump. And when in gear, coming to a stop with the clutch pulled in the engine sometimes slows and and you have to hit the throttle a little to break it free.. if you know what I mean. But its inconsistant. I use amsoil 10-40 synthetic. I also adjusted the clutch freeplay But no different. Any ideas???

Thanks
2001 KDX 220
2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
1996 Polaris XLT SKS
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Julien D
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Post by Julien D »

Remove the clutch cover and check the basket for grooves in the fingers. That's generally the cause of such behaviour, and can be fixed by filing the grooves out or replacing the basket.
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Pretty much normal

Might try a lighter oil

Cold temps we've been having, mine was pulling hard enough that I could not hold it in place, but that was while the motor was still cold, after it warmed up it was fine
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Post by GS »

I second the respectable Mr. Wibbens on the lighter oil.....might take an hour to make any difference, but it reduces the draggin.
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Post by smuggler »

Thanks,
I will try the lighter oil. If that dont work I'll take off the clutch cover and have a look. Great to have access to experienced riders when you dont have a service manual.


Thanks again.
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Post by canyncarvr »

You can get a look at the clutch basket through the oil-fill plug. If you can see dents it's time to consider getting rid of 'em.

You might check the rest of the clutch activation setup..not just freeplay. 'Fer instance:

Clutch lever/perch wear

Clutch activation lever movement at the top of the cover

Proper activation lever alignment (it's in the manual...that would be helpful to you. Basically, the arm should move through a 90º orientation. That angle changes with shims placed on the TO bearing).

Cable housing worn out?

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Post by skythrasher »

I would pay close attention to what CC is saying. I think a lot of people miss the boat by just adjusting free play at the lever. Keeping a good eye on the basket wear, cable and perch wear and especially the activator arm can great increase the life of a clutch. I would almost bet money that keeping all of these items in check probably would add 25-50% more life to a clutch. These are items that often get overlooked until there is a problem. These adjustments are second on my after ride maintenance ritual after the air filter swap, and before I check brakes. Since I added the hydro clutch I keep the evil eye on the basket and acuator arm, the hydro clutch is self adjusting and will mask some of the early signs of clutch wear.
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Post by canyncarvr »

The KDX clutch (activated from the outside, 'stead of the inside) is a known sticker. Ex: With the engine off, in gear, clutch pulled, you aren't going to push it anywhere without skipping the rear wheel. At least not until you break the plates apart. A bit of back-n-forth motion will do that. It will be easier to push then, but you'll still feel a lot of drag thru the transmission.

Same for the KDX being harder to start IN gear than in neutral.

While all of that is true..your described situation sounds to be a bit on the worse side of 'normal'..so I'm guessing you don't have the 'optimum' adjustment/alignment/nominal wear in any number of places. Making all that right at this time will still not get you to what many consider 'normal', that being pulling the clutch lever completely disengages the tranny from the engine.

It's a bunch of little things that add up to a less-than-tenable sitchyashion.

Check the basics...change your oil..things might improve enough to not worry about it.

Skythrasher's right. Dirtbikes have a tough way to go..and not keeping at least half-fast up on maintenance and adjustment isn't generally the path to trouble free riding.

Agreed, 10-40 (even 10W-40) is a bit on the heavy side for winter riding, imwo, and will add to the 'stick' effect.

....especially up north where lonely men struggle thu hoary nights to keep their fires lit and cabins warm.

:grin:

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Post by smuggler »

Thanks for the replies guys, my bike is now in a heated garage and i have changed the oil. What came out was fairly clean. I refilled with new oil (amsoil 10-40 again for the lack of anything else at the time) and the problem is fixed :supz: You guys are wonderful help. :prayer:
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Post by canyncarvr »

How often do you change transmission oil?

For a 2-stroke bike oil to come out anything other than fairly clean, it's had to have been in use for way too long a time.

Is the heated garaged the 'fix' reason? If so, it's a pretty good indication the oil is too heavy for the outside. This time of year, anyway (AND in the northern hemisphere for anyone reading this from the up-side down half of the planet).

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Post by smuggler »

The last ride of the season(Dec 6 or7th) was when I noticed the problem and yes it was cold, around 3 or 4 celsius. What grade oil would you recommend for this temp? I try to get every day in before it freezes.
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Post by canyncarvr »

I wasn't referring to your last ride, but to your comment that an oil change fixed the problem. Having changed the oil and done any testing (putting it in gear to see if it jerks as bad as it did..or any other method of checking it out) in a heated garage doesn't tell you anything about what it will do with 'new' oil RIDING in 3-4ºC weather.

Kaw's spec lists 10W30 OR 10W40 for the KDX. A generic oil temp chart I looked at lists the LOW end of both oils to be the same, it's the high-end temperatures that change. Still, as already noted, you will have greater 'sticking' problems with 10W-40 in the cold temps than you will with 10W-30.


Exactly what oil are you using? Amsoil XL writeup for example says:

Improve Fuel Economy
AMSOIL XL Synthetic Motor Oils are fuel efficient oils formulated with friction modifiers ..

NEVER run that kind of oil in a wet clutch application. No oil with ANY friction modifiers, or any oil that claims to be 'Energy Conserving' or the like. Amsoil has a product that is designed for wet clutch applications.

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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Need to make sure the bottle does not have this symbol on it!

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Lower half of the symbol needs to look exactly like this

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Post by smuggler »

I am familiar with oil that has friction modifiers like most all car oils. I was told by the guy I bought the bike from that it was just changed and it was amsoil 10w40 for motorcycles. The oil I used was for motorcycle, amsoil 10w40 not sure if it was synthetic or not due to throwing away bottle. I have had the bike about a month. I only had 1 other 2 stroke bike that was a 1994 kx 250. As a Jr I had a xl 80, xl 125, xr 250,and a dr 250, (all used) 4-strokes that did make the base oil dirty. I read somewhere on this forum about using transmission fluid( ATF )?? Just curious.
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

I've tried ATF but it seems to go south rather quickly
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Post by smuggler »

Another quick question for you pro's, do you like Ipone semi synthetic 2-cycle oil? And if not, why? I used it in my kx 250 with no issues but I only had it a little over a year.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Ipone? Like Box2 Synthesis or somesuch?

Sounds foreign to me.......

Everyone has their own idea of what 'the best' oil is....and generally anyone that doesn't agree with that idea is simply wrong!

Use a quality lubricant, one designed for your application (like Amsoil's motorcycle oil designed for wet clutch use) and you will be OK. I'd never heard of Ipone 'til you brought it up.

The post that started this thread had a number of indications that something wasn't up to snuff...some adjustment, out-of-tolerance worn part, or maybe you were simply overdue for an oil change.

...which, you didn't say anything about. Some dirtbikers change their trans oil after every ride, some when they have to look in the manual to find where the oil plug is 'cuz it's been so long since they changed their oil, they forgot where it is. Nothing wrong with the former, the latter is certainly not taking care of their machine.

Use the correct oil, a good one, change it often (every several rides anyway). As long as their are no symptomatic issues that come from using an unsuitable oil (clutch operation problems 'fer example), as long as all the other stuff (mentioned earlier) is good...just ride! :wink:

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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Most 2stroke oils are just fine

I did hear about a guy that had a problem with Belray though, so I have always steered clear of that stuff
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Post by canyncarvr »

That was premix. ...so I heard, anyway!

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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Seems to me he was asking about 2cyce oil? :?



>|<>QBB<
smuggler wrote:Another quick question for you pro's, do you like Ipone semi synthetic 2-cycle oil? And if not, why? I used it in my kx 250 with no issues but I only had it a little over a year.
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