Ooops. I did leave that out. Sorry.
No. My carb is an airstriker. SSS was the same on the OEM 35mm as I recall. Others have noted the modified OEM 35mm PWK to have it, too. Also, it's been noted to have been found on a 220 as well as a 200.
Re: 'I am familiar with SSS but never experienced it of course. Does that apply more to the 2nd barrel (high revs)?'
No. The difference is off-idle pull. That and IDLE pull. When it's right, you will be able to count the ticks of the motor and it will NOT stall.
Not exaggerating for effect..the difference is huge. 3rd gear will pull every bit as well as 2nd used to, there will be NO noticeable lazy throttle (not quite a bog) that is common between 3rd-4th ('cuz the ratio spread between the two is pretty big).
Re: 'past 1 1/2 I do not notice much change, especially regarding my bog.'
I can't say your response problem HAS to be the air screw...but I know for sure it CAN be.
You won't notice 'past 1 1/2' if that means moving it to 1 3/4 or two full turns.
START at 2 1/2, bracket changes on either side from there, in
small increments..like the width of the marker line on one of RB's knurled screws. Take the time it takes to find it. It's there. Once you find it, you will learn quickly what makes it change and will be able to adjust it on-the-fly if you wish as temps/conditions change during your riding day.
IMO, but I would tune what you got before you change stuff. At 40/150, you're close enough to get that AS set to where it will work noticeably the best it can get. That said, I'd change the needle..but that just 'cuz I've found -4 to consistently be the best choice in the C/DEK needles in the modified carb.
Given the above, then, re:
Re: 'Just not sure which may to start here smaller jet or bigger? Could both of you please describe the symptoms of a lean and rich condition right off idle.'
A lean pilot will be harder to start when choke-cold (than a pilot that is NOT lean). A too-lean pilot will exhibit a hi-rev condition on choke-cold start that you can 'regulate' with the kill button. By 'hi-rev' I mean it will rev hi enough to scare you...'She's gonna blow!!!' high...well past the KIPS point. As far as throttle response, a lean pilot will be downright touchy. It will pull quite well in low-speed stuff but with just a tad too quick a twist of the throttle will get you a
very non-linear response..as in loop-it hit.
..which is kind'a fun..and what I get with the 38 in current 'conditions'.
A too-lean pilot will rev cleanly off-idle..but it won't have the pull a better choice pilot will have..and if you run the bike there a lot (off-idle), you will likely notice your coolant gurgling when it never used to (things will get hot).
The end result you're after is to have
your bike run to suit
you. It doesn't take a ton of time to get it sorted out, but it certainly takes some..and you have to pay attention to what's going on response-wise. The benefit is you won't be wondering, 'I think there is more to be had...'
Then THAT idea will get blowed out of the water when you 'find' the next greatest thing. Say....toluene 'fer example...........
When your bike runs well, your riding experience improves BIGtime. You come to trust your bike to do what you know it WILL do instead of wondering when its shortfalls will bite you in the rear.
Change that clip..move that AS...post-up what you find out!
BTW...you will likely find that the bike WILL start better (talking choke-cold..not every time you start it over the course of a days ride) at a 'reduced' AS setting. If so, then simply take note of where you started from, turn it back out to that spot (to start with for the day) after you get it started. I used to do that..but decided to leave that step out (turning the AS in)..and kick it maybe a couple-three more times than I would otherwise.
