Riding in the powerband or lugging?

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firffighter
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Riding in the powerband or lugging?

Post by firffighter »

I've been riding my 220 a little more in the powerband lately rather than riding a gear higher. It seems like I have been faster doing this, but its hard to tell, might just sound like I'm going faster.

I've been entering and exiting corners reving her out more instead of lugging and I think it has helped. But, it probably wears you out faster riding in the powerband all day.

I've always heard that riding a gear higher gets you maximum traction and lets you relax and conserve energy, and I have been riding most of this season using this technique. But, last weekend, I decided to shift down and let er rip and I was pushing my riding buddies harder than ever.

Just wondering what techniques you all use and if anyone has had similar experience.
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Duke
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Post by Duke »

Riding conditions dictate which approach is best. If momentum can be maintained, then riding a gear higher without lugging it would be in order. But if you have to cut and square corners, then you would have to ride it like a 125 MX'er; basically the way you have described above. I ride a particular fire road that is about 12 miles in length each way. It consists of wide sweeping corners, tight rutted dog leg turns, ascents, descents leading into the turns. Turn that are moist from morning dew as the over hanging trees provide shade, while other portions are for ever exposed to the sun rendering classic So-Cal blue groove. And of course deep sand at times. With no two turns being alike, one approach isn't going to serve you. Being familiar with the basic overlay, I have outraced MX mounted riders on both 2 and 4T. Its not me or the bike, its just that I know the best line selection and which style is best for that turn. The subject is a complete science into self and much of it delves deeply into line selection, conditions (racing vs riding solo like an enduro, clutch modulation, etc). Thats what makes even trail riding a legitimate sport in my opinion. It ain't just about pinning it
firffighter
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Post by firffighter »

Good point about terrain dictating how to ride a section.

Anyone ever watch a really fast guy on a 2-stroke in the woods? They are always screaming the motor. I watched some of the ISDE from both last year and this year and those guys on 2-strokes are railing through the woods.

I never saw Jeff Fredette on the KDX. I wonder if he was a lugger or screamer?
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Duke
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Post by Duke »

I would surmise the tactic of keeping momentum via wide sweeping line selection, when feasible. In the qualifier style events, the grass tracks serve as the tie breaker quite often, and it is here where riding like a road racer best serves the KDX rider, or anyone who is sitting atop a slower bike. Perhaps you could ask him on his web site, or do a Google search
firffighter
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Post by firffighter »

I've never watched the "Dirtwise" video by Watts, but wonder if he covered this at all since her rode a KTM200 so well.
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Duke
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Post by Duke »

>|<>QBB<
firffighter wrote:I've never watched the "Dirtwise" video by Watts, but wonder if he covered this at all since her rode a KTM200 so well.

Perhaps. His is about the only instructional video that is devoted to off road, as opposed to MX. He is smooth and does really advocate the tactic of momentum. Thats how he was able to win GNC's on a 125EXC . Might be well looking into. Good riding skill and conditioning pays dividends over any bike modification. Also, take an honest assessment of your self, and be guided by common sense. What is touted as appropriate for a talented 19 year old with tons of free time to devote to training, may not correlate well to a middle aged working stiff (thats me) who trail rides once a month or so
firffighter
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Post by firffighter »

Who you callin' middle aged :mad:

Very true on the 20 year old riding technique. A couple of the races I did this year were pretty hilarious to see the 20 year olds on their 250f's fly out in front on a 3 hr. harescramble only to be passed by guys over twice their age 1/2 way through the race.

I am just curious about what technique yeilds better effectiveness. Like I mentioned above, I tend to be a lugger because my modded 220 allows me to go up hills, over obstacles and through corners in a gear higher and pull out without shifting. But, lately with riding in the powerband on a more consistent basis I think I may be faster and am still maintaining traction.
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Duke
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Post by Duke »

Yea its a toss up that will find nay sayers for one and proponents for the other.
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Rick
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Post by Rick »

Go to your local "place", and time your self. Try lugging for one lap, and on the pipe the other. If on the pipe is faster, see how long you can maintain that pace. If you can maintaian that pace for a while, then there ya go!
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firffighter
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Post by firffighter »

Keeping it in the pipe does yeild faster times for sure, just keeps you busy and on your toes a bit.

Just read a great article from Trailrider magazine talking about reaction times and having the bike repond quickly to your reactions.

Basically, you want a bike that will respond ASAP when you see an obstacle since you move toward that object a good amount before the your reaction goes into effect. If your bike bogs or takes too much time to respond, then wham you hit the obstacle or are struggling through it.

Made me think about if you are lugging instead of riding on the pipe, the bike would take longer to respond.

Make any sense?
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Jeb
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Post by Jeb »

RE: Make any sense? I think so. There was, however, a fine line between "lugging" and "on the pipe" on my 220. Only at the lowest of RPMs did the bike respond any slower than at other RPMs; most of the "power band" was graciously spread over most of the RPM range. I could tell when the power valve opened up, though, and there is a way to get the powervalve to open a little sooner that would likely benefit you.

For the RM250 though, lugging it is preferred at this point in my experience with the bike because "on the pipe" takes on a bit of a different meaning. I've got the powervalve to open up later and that helps in the woods. And lugging is made possible with Steahly's gem called the flywheel weight. The stock flywheel size on the RM is absolutley puny.
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