KDXRIDER.NET

Local shop told me 300, does this sound about right? I realize they will farm it out but id like to start a relationship with this shop, being new to the area and all.

Thanks,

Sean

Dunno about the cost, but if it was me, I'd send it to a reputable place like Eric Gorr. There's been quite a few cases on this site where the job was done by locals and it turned out pretty bad (US chrome comes to mind) I'm sure some others will shime in and explain what happened to them.
BTW what happened to you cylinder?

I think I paid $250 a few years ago so $300 today is not off the wall.

I'm with Scheckaet, though. I'd send it out through someone who has a reputation riding on delivering you a good plating job. Let the local dealership develop a relationship with you in small easy to do things, like getting you the right stuff the first time.

I sent mine to Jeff Fredette last year. Plating and a new piston for well under $300.

Fredette has used USChrome in the past. I don't know if he still does or not. There are more than a couple of tales of woe from riders on this board that used USChrome. I'm one of 'em.

EG used to use USChrome. He doesn't anymore. I've not heard exactly why he changed, but he did.

Maybe it's 'cuz they stink. Maybe for some reason.

The price doesn't sound out of line. DO be sure the replater has the piston you are going to use. If they don't require the piston be supplied with the cylinder, use another vendor.

What model of bike? You realize you do NOT use an OEM piston on a 220, correct?

I think langcourt charges $185, and from what I've heard the work is much better/more consistent than US Chrome.

http://www.langcourt.com/

An assumption, but I assumed the $300 figure to include the piston and associated parts required to complete the job.

IF it's ONLY a replate figure...it's high.

Who's taking the thing apart and prepping it for the trip to the plater?

USChrome wanted ONLY the raw cylinder..no KIPS, no studs, no plugs, no nothing.

EG said to send him the assembled cylinder and he would take care of the 'extra' parts strippage.

There's considerably more to a replate job than the replate job!

thanks for all of the replies!

The 300 does not include the piston.

What do they need the piston for? setting the ring gap would be my only guess?

I have already removed everything from the clyinder.. I am having the guy deck my cylinder and head to enusre they are flat before the plating. (could be why the head leaked antifreeze)

There is only a few places that plate (this guy farms it out). Tts not langcourt or uschrome... cant remember the name but hes been using them for many years with no problem

Re: 'What do they need the piston for?'

The bore needs to be sized to the piston you are using. Piston-to-cylinder clearance is much closer than is ring gap. Piston-to-cylinder clearance can be fit to suit during the honing process after the replate. Not all pistons are the same size. Pro-X for example has .01mm groupings..thus the 'A' 'B' and such alpha markings on those pistons and the cylinders they go in. Wiseco has one size...period.

Why have a 'one-size-fits-all' bore (and get a .007" fit) when you can have your cylinder fit to your piston type (and get .003" maybe)? Yeah...the latter is pretty close..but that's what break-in processes are for.

A replate outfit that cares not what piston you use and what their resultant fit is going to be is NOT a replate outfit I'd want to have anything to do with.

Ring gap is pretty much 'You get what you got'. You don't change it. It's not a V-8 where you file ring ends to get a specific gap for different cylinders. 'Sides, the ring ends on a 2-smoke are formed to fit the placement pins in the piston ring lands. No flat filing going on there.

"Ring gap is pretty much 'You get what you got'. You don't change it. "

huh? Wiseco tells you to measure ring gap. I measured on a recent rebuild of a YZ, and found it tighter than their listed tolerence. I filed to fit in their guidlines.

You saying doing that makes the ring bind where the pin is, and the end gap is just window dressing?

Re: 'You saying doing that makes the ring bind where the pin is, and the end gap is just window dressing?'

Could be. Depends on you much you filed it. Maybe yamahahaha rings come with long tangs for the express purpose of filing.

Nunn'a the Mayaha rings I put in my R5s/RDs did.......


It would be possible to file too much off the tang such that the inside of the ring hit the pin..in which case the gap you measured isn't the gap you got (when installed on the piston).

I wouldn't worry about it much. Next time maybe check to ensure the filing doesn't interfere with the ring and pin...yun (ha ha I'm so funny!)

**edit**

Two Stroke Top End Replacement

From: here!

8. Check the ring end gap. The gap should be .004" per 1.000" of bore.


Example: your cylinder has a 2.500" cylinder bore

2.5 x .004 =.010

Your ring end gap should be no smaller than .010". Gently push the ring into the cylinder bore so it is parallel and about 1" below the head surface. Use a feeler gauge to measure the end gap. Larger is OK, smaller has to be corrected. Use a flat file to remove material from the ends of the ring if needed.

See? Happens all the time 'eh?

Considering the possibility of it needing to be done...I WITHDRAW my 'get what you got' statement.

I've filed a lot of 4-stroke rings..never a 2-stroke ring...but that NOT because I was concerned about the locating pin interfering with the ring. I've not found a 2T ring that was too tight, so have had no need to worry about it.

I would suppose that a decently engineered ring would incorporate the idea such that an outside diameter smaller than the piston would still allow acceptable pin clearance. That would be fairly fool proof. As proof against fools as could be reasonably accepted when considering human intervention anyway.

I'm looking at an RD piston. With a ring compressed to NO ring gap (it's smaller in diameter than the piston..let alone the cylinder) there is still considerably ring-pin clearance.

Fool proof or no..seems not UNreasonable to make sure that aspect of ring fit is OK if you're filing on the ends.