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Hi everyone,

I just picked up a 1999 KDX200, $440! Its in good shape overall. The head gasket leaked and owner let it sit for over a year, rusting the crank and bearings.

The cylinder looks to be in decent shape but it does have some rust stains (all the plating is still there) Can I hone the cylinder to clean things up a bit?

Also, can someone recommend a good place to send my crank to be rebuilt?

Thanks for the help

Sean

Ron Black does crank rebuilds check the "Links" page to contact him. You can hone a plated cylinder, but Kawy plating is mighty thin and delicate compared to some other bikes. I think I would just use a scotch-brite pad and see if that works.

..rusting the crank and bearings.

Not to pick...but not to overlook, either....

The 'leak' was coolant into the crankcase? Any idea why it leaked? That's not a common KDX problem. It's not the sort of thing you would want a repeat of, which will happen if whatever caused the problem in the first place isn't taken care of.

i dont really know what happened. I always pressure test my motors to make sure theres no leaks, that should help me find anything.

what else could it be if it wasnt antifreeze?

they guy that owned the bike took it to a dealer to get a quote to fix.. so the cylinder was already off. they quoted him a new crank, piston and rings.

I'm not saying I know...obviously that isn't so.

Being told that a bottom end needed to be replaced, my first thought wouldn't be, 'The coolant must have leaked.'

For $400, it's worth taking the thing apart to see what happened...and fixing whatever's wrong with it (probably).

It will be interesting to find out...and we'll be waiting for you to tell us all about it!

As far as the plating, just clean it up with some scotch brite...This is the same for when you do top-end jobs...

With cases split I'd love to know if there is another rod a few mm's longer that would work in the KDX (to be used in conjuntion w/ a spacer plate)....Never done the research. A 210-215cc stroked 200 would be the shiznit.

*edit* CC caught me without enough coffee again. The above statement wouldn't increase stroke. A re-pinned crank, or different crank would. Spacer plates are sometimes used to maintain port timing with a drastic bore change...

If the coffee you HAD at least had the right amount of flavoring (born of hoary nights) in it, you would've been jus fine!

Cheers!

The motor is apart. Tranny, clutch, shift forks were all perfect. The only thing out of spec were the clutch springs.

Nothing apears to be wrong (the head could be warped) but I will find that out when it gets back together.

So....the crank was seized? Rust?

I've been around that clutch spring issue. Brandy new ones from the dealer were out of spec...short.

canyncarvr wrote:So....the crank was seized? Rust?

I've been around that clutch spring issue. Brandy new ones from the dealer were out of spec...short.

The crank was seized with rust, the rod would not move, nor would the main bearings.

So which clutch springs do you use? I just ordered new ones from the factory

"So which clutch springs do you use? I just ordered new ones from the factory"

I would think the OEM ones will serve you just fine. Others may know better.

I went through a similar situation on a motor I picked up from a motorcycle shop. The motor had been siezed due to no oil in the gas. The MC shop busted it up a bit more taking it apart- KIPS rod snapped due to LH nut, alignment dowels missing, who knows what else, etc.

I sent the whole mess off to Fredette. I paid a lot, but I haven't had to worry about it since.

I used OEM springs when I resprung. My experience with aftermarket (Barnett) springs isn't too good. Unreasonably stiff and in at least one case, too LONG...no threads sticking past them, had to compress them to get the bolts started. That's a good way to muck up something aluminum (and expensive).

I've never had the KDX clutch slip when it wasn't supposed to. See no reason to get stiffer springs.