Powder Coating my Frame
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Powder Coating my Frame
I will be getting my frame powder coated sometime in the next couple months. Is there anything to take into consideration before I do this or to ask the place that is going to do this?
- Indawoods
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Ask them how many pounds it will add...
*** Administrator //***
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
****'95 KDX 200/****
"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
- canyncarvr
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I'd ask for some references. Talk to some of their customers to see how it turned out.
I've had plusses and minuses from powder coating...from the same shop.
I had the heads done on my Duster..inside and out! I was concerned when I heard that some coatings didn't hold up well to continued oil contact. I didn't want the stuff coming off INside the engine.
So, the next time I had the heads off, I took them in to get 'fixed'..recoated with the REAL stuff that DIDN'T flake/peel.
When I took the heads off, the coating INside the heads was perfect. Not a flake, chip or peel nowhere. The NEW stuff? That lasted a month or so before IT started to peel.
Yeah...preparation is important..and coating something that has had an oil bath for years probably isn't going to work well. Still...the FIRST coat was PERFECT. That kind'a blows the 'oil impregnation' idea out.
I'm sayin' you just never know. Your result will certainly be a product of their prep and product..and the best way to find out about that isn't to ask'em about it. Ask their CUSTOMERS about it. Go LOOK at some of their jobs. Pay real close attention to how it's holding up on welds.
I've had plusses and minuses from powder coating...from the same shop.
I had the heads done on my Duster..inside and out! I was concerned when I heard that some coatings didn't hold up well to continued oil contact. I didn't want the stuff coming off INside the engine.
So, the next time I had the heads off, I took them in to get 'fixed'..recoated with the REAL stuff that DIDN'T flake/peel.
When I took the heads off, the coating INside the heads was perfect. Not a flake, chip or peel nowhere. The NEW stuff? That lasted a month or so before IT started to peel.
Yeah...preparation is important..and coating something that has had an oil bath for years probably isn't going to work well. Still...the FIRST coat was PERFECT. That kind'a blows the 'oil impregnation' idea out.
I'm sayin' you just never know. Your result will certainly be a product of their prep and product..and the best way to find out about that isn't to ask'em about it. Ask their CUSTOMERS about it. Go LOOK at some of their jobs. Pay real close attention to how it's holding up on welds.
Consider the source
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- Dewey
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Take it to a shop that has an oven big enough to do the frame, don't accept lamp cured it doesn't hold up as well. Most professional shops will easily accommodate a bike frame. As mentioned above, prep is critical, have it stripped throughly down to the bare metal, either through media blasting or chemical stripping. If you can, take the opportunity to go over the bare frame and inspect for cracks and/or worn holes, also clean up any weld splatter that was left from the factory. Talk to the coater about which powders hold up the best, some powders hold up much better than others.
As CC said get references!
A good job will last a long time on a bike frame!
As CC said get references!
A good job will last a long time on a bike frame!
Dewey
02 -KDX220
02 -KDX220
- barryadam
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Did you get the powdercoating done yet?
If not, select a shop that has experience doing m/c parts and frames.
As Dewey said, before you take your frame in, or between the blasting and coating, inspect thoroughly. Now is the time to weld up and re-thread those loose fastener points. Like the seat hold-down bolt holes. Mine were stripped from the PO. I also did the sub-frame mount holes on my KX and re-welded on the pipe mount bracket. I welded on tabs to bolt a skid plate to the frame. Now would also be the time to straighten out anything that isn't aligned.
I removed the steering head races and put new ones in to match the new bearings once the frame coating was done.
The powder shop I use plugs the thread holes with silicone plugs before coating, and when I get the frame back, there is a bit of flash to clean up including the swingarm and steering bearing locations. I run a thread chaser (not a tap) through all the frame holes after coating as well.
The shop masks off the VIN as SOP and then clear coats over it. They claim it can be unreadable if not masked, but I have had other shops NOT mask it and it was fine. You might want to discuss with the shop before he starts.
Inspect the painted parts before you leave the shop for runs, drips, etc. Powdercoating is pretty good, but many times, there are problems, especially if they don't get the frame 100% clean after blasting. If grease leaks out of the steering tube or other places after blasting, it ruins the powder application.
There's nothing like assembly day with everything plated, coated and cleaned up!!!
If not, select a shop that has experience doing m/c parts and frames.
As Dewey said, before you take your frame in, or between the blasting and coating, inspect thoroughly. Now is the time to weld up and re-thread those loose fastener points. Like the seat hold-down bolt holes. Mine were stripped from the PO. I also did the sub-frame mount holes on my KX and re-welded on the pipe mount bracket. I welded on tabs to bolt a skid plate to the frame. Now would also be the time to straighten out anything that isn't aligned.
I removed the steering head races and put new ones in to match the new bearings once the frame coating was done.
The powder shop I use plugs the thread holes with silicone plugs before coating, and when I get the frame back, there is a bit of flash to clean up including the swingarm and steering bearing locations. I run a thread chaser (not a tap) through all the frame holes after coating as well.
The shop masks off the VIN as SOP and then clear coats over it. They claim it can be unreadable if not masked, but I have had other shops NOT mask it and it was fine. You might want to discuss with the shop before he starts.
Inspect the painted parts before you leave the shop for runs, drips, etc. Powdercoating is pretty good, but many times, there are problems, especially if they don't get the frame 100% clean after blasting. If grease leaks out of the steering tube or other places after blasting, it ruins the powder application.
There's nothing like assembly day with everything plated, coated and cleaned up!!!
Last edited by barryadam on 12:15 am Dec 05 2008, edited 1 time in total.
- Jeb
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- Julien D
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- canyncarvr
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VERY purdy!!
New plastics? ..as in number plates?
What did you do to the engine?
I want one!
New plastics? ..as in number plates?
What did you do to the engine?
I want one!
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!