Question with EFM auto clutch users

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Little Jeff
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Question with EFM auto clutch users

Post by Little Jeff »

I plan on getting a EFM auto clutch real soon, with in the next couple of days. I was curious as to what everybody is using for gear oil with their EFM auto clutch. I use Shell Rotella T 15-40w in my KTM300, but that has the Rekluse clutch in it and that's what they recomend. I was hoping I could use the same with this auto clutch also.I read somehere that Gary from EFM recomends synthetic ATF. The clutch is going into a '2000 KDX 200. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by fuzzy »

I would go with what they say, but I would think either one would work jsut fine. I know in centrifigully engaged kart clutches (basically a bike-auto clutch, single speed trans) the synthetic ATF greatly increases disc life, and reduces operating temp over motor oil. I generally prefer the motor oil in my trans' but I'm not constantly slipping the clutch either.
'91 KDX 200 Project $300 KDX
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Post by canyncarvr »

Ski will chime in, prolly...

You can check the tranny oil poll of awhile back..but I recall him to have said he tried ATF..didn't like it...now uses Rotella..which IS certified/spec'd for wet clutch use, btw.

It reads like THIS:


I look forward to hearing how you like it in a 2-hunny.


Sounds like you are familiar with the process...including that you cannot keep your manual clutch ops on the KDX? I think with most katooms (don't know about your 300) you CAN keep it with the Rekluse, which is why I bring it up.

Garry (yeah...two 'r's) does have DOT fluid master cylinders (most are mineral oil..and some riders have been told there's no such thing as a DOT fluid MCs) for hand op'd rear brakes.

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Post by rick albert »

hey little jeff......congrats on your decision to make a already fun bike to ride even more fun ! i use reg ATF in mine ( $1.65 per qt at wal-mart)
i just ran a national enduro (76 miles of rock) on july 20th in Blain, PA
no overheating problems! (can't say the same for the guys on the orange bikes) 95degs 80% humid; the little kdx 200 chugged right along ! :wink:
JUST RIDE !!!
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Post by Little Jeff »

Thanks for the info guys. I called garry today and talked to him about the oil thing and what I needed to send him as far as clutch components. He said the Shell works fine. I am going under the knife if Sept. (ACL reconstruction) so i doubt I will have all put together before then, but it will be close. Thanks again
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Post by canyncarvr »

Your OEM basket is in good shape?

It's only money....but if your basket is banged up, now is THE time to replace it. Before you spend a lot of money modifying it!

I wouldn't do it with an OEM basket. Of course...I'm not doing it. I filed my basket twice before I bought a Hinson basket. I wouldn't consider spending that much (autoclutch) on an OEM basket.

I suppose one could argue that an autoclutch is easier on basket fingers than a manual clutch, so maybe finger dents aren't a problem.

EFM might modify a replacement basket to work with an existing modified clutch pack. I don't recall anyone asking EFM that..how much $$ and all.

I was just reading about ACL rehab. It's tough!! It takes a LOT of work to make the surgery successful. All the doc told me was I wasn't worth it..too old!

So....I settle for falling over a lot......... :wink:

Good luck, best wishes and all! Keep after the rehab!!!

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Post by Little Jeff »

So what you are saying is that a brand new OEM clutch basket will not work with the EFM auto clutch, because that is what I have? I can not afford to go and buy a Hinson, If I had known that, I wouldn't have bought the OEM basket. I hope I did not screw myself.
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Post by Indawoods »

You'll be fine....
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Post by skipro3 »

A stock OEM clutch basket is fine.... IF!!!..... It's within specs and not hammered. Plenty of info around to determine that; photos too. Check the basket and hub faces that mate up with the clutch pressure and friction plate fingers for indentations. There should be none. Very slight indents can be filed; two faces at a time. Put a flat file in there and you will see how two opposing faces are on the same plane. That works great to keep the file flat to the clutch. But here's the catch; that filing does two things you don't really want. First, it opens that gap a little wider. A gap wider than the clutch plate fingers is gonna have room to slam the clutch plate fingers against the basket tabs at that mating surface, causing indents to occur quicker. Now, it's been speculated that with an auto clutch, that won't be happening. And it's been my experience that the autoclutch does indeed engage the clutch smoother than someone who drops the hammer frequently. I have observed that my basket is holding up just fine. The second thing that happens to the basket when you file on it is that you loose the hardened surface on that comes from the factory. I can't say it's an anodized finish, although that would be a good idea on that aluminum basket, because I don't KNOW that to be true. I do know that filing what ever surface is on there isn't gonna make it harder and less susceptible to impact dents from the plates.

Now, with ALL that said, I took my stock KX250 basket, filed it and sent it in to Garry at EFM. I've got many miles on it and just recently inspected it this past weekend. It shows zero amount of dents from the clutch plates. Now, I'm not bragging or anything, but I ride extremely hard. I didn't say I ride good. I am hard on equipment. I do not ever ride with the slightest concern that the bike will fail if I don't take it easy. If my bike breaks, then I need either do more routine maintenance on it or beef up what ever broke to the point it won't fail when I'm riding it. At one time I dumped my trailer taking a corner too fast leaving a riding area. The motorcycle came off the trailer and actually passed my truck as I continued to drive. It stopped in front of me. Other than a ground down peg and a bar end, a little plastic, that bike was fine. A testament to my ability to select parts that will hold up and to Kawasaki for a bike that is strong to begin with. That was my KDX220.
But I digress... Ask more questions if you need to. I'd be happy to answer them. I'll see if I can find photos in my gallery but for some reason, theres many that are missing. I don't know why....
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Post by Indawoods »

You will note he said BRAND NEW.... :wink:
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Post by skipro3 »

That'll work too. Just don't listen to CC.. Garry told me he would prefer the stock basket. The thing is; his tooling is set for a stock basket. An aftermarket one might work or it might be enough difference that there isn't enough material where he needs it.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Just don't listen to CC..
What EFM would 'rather' work with isn't necessarily in the best interests of the customer.

No. I said nothing about an OEM basket not working. The OEM basket is soft. Softer than a Hinson, anyway. IF the intent is to sink hundreds of $$ into a clutch mod..and then have the OEM basket crap out sooner than later, great!

I'd rather have the hundreds of $$ in something that worked better to start with.

Certainly not a clapped out to start with piece.

THAT was the point. DON'T bother sending a basket with the fingers all bashed to hell.
Smartypantz wrote:It's within specs and not hammered.

...which is exactly what I already said already...to start with even: 'if your basket is banged up, now is THE time to replace it. '

Or...DON'T bother sending a basket with the fingers all bashed to hell.

And why send in a basket that has been filed twice already?

Sheesh...all ski did was agree with what I already said..and he says don't listen to me!

Hhhmmm... :hmm: Point well taken!!! :roll:

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Post by canyncarvr »

Surreally, a new OEM basket will be just fine. Wonderfull, even!

MUCH to be preferred over sending a basket with the fingers all bashed to hell.

:wink:

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Post by Little Jeff »

C'mon now guys, can't we all just get along :grin: Thanks again for all your input and advice.
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Post by skipro3 »

>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:Ski will chime in, prolly...
I took that as a recommendation/endorsement. I kinda thought that's what I wrote. Now I have hurt feelings and will shun you and all your ilk.....

Just remember Little Jeff; the only one who's replied to your post who ACTUALLY OWNS AN EFM AUTO CLUTCH is... hmmmm, ME!!! HA!!!! I've owned not one, not two, but three. I've also done extensive work on a rider's KX500 autoclutch, so make it 4 different bikes I've had the pleasure of getting familiar with. On that regard; I would argue that the KX500 would be the bike that would work a clutch basket over harder than a KDX200 would. After many hours of operation, that stock KX500 basket looks as good as new on the working surfaces. Meaning that the autoclutch is easier on a basket than most riders are with a lever.

BTW, I use Rotella 30W and will stick with it. I've tried that ATF stuff, fancy made-for-2-stroke-tranny stuff, Mobil1 50w full synth stuff, etc. Rotella has worked the best for me and for the wear. (CLUTCH plate wear, not basket wear. None of the oils seemed to affect the basket material at all.)

And just because we sound like a bunch of bratty kids who don't get along, don't believe it. We truely do like each other....

Carver, I LOVE YOU MAN!!!!!! :partyman: hA!!!!
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

will you two please get a room?
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Post by Little Jeff »

Well when I recieve the auto clutch back from EFM Skipro, I will definately look for you to help me in case I run into any snags. I think if I can install a Rekluse, I should be able to install a EFM, hopefully :mrgreen:
Thanks again
Little Jeff

PS Any of you guys from Washington state? Just curious
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Post by skipro3 »

Just remember; there are washers in your clutch that seem to stick to the basket, then disappear. Be very careful to keep all parts in the correct order. I have a thread on here complete with photos. Tell Garry you want the instructions sent with all the photos. I put an installation guide together for him to send to KDX owners who bought his auto clutch set-up.
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Post by Little Jeff »

Got my EFM auto clutch today. I do have a question though. Those 6 screws with the wave and flat washers under the screw head. Is it supposed to be 1 wave washer, it looks like 3 flat washers and then a nother wave washer. Does that sound right> I haven't taken it apart yet as I am not that far into my build yet. Was just curious
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