Need help making headlight work
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Need help making headlight work
I have a 98 KDX 220. It has an aftermarket UFO headlight assembly. The main headlamp does not work, only the small running light works which is useless. I have tried putting a new bulb in which did nothing. I'm not too knowledgeable about electrical stuff but I do have a multimeter which I can use.
What should I test?
Could i hook up the wires from the running light bulb to the main bulb to see if that works? Or are they different voltages?
Could the lighting coil be bad if the running light still works?
What should I test?
Could i hook up the wires from the running light bulb to the main bulb to see if that works? Or are they different voltages?
Could the lighting coil be bad if the running light still works?
- canyncarvr
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You use the term 'running light'. That has the sound of 'Non-US' to it.
Where be 'ya?
The point being, if you are UK, NZ or AU..your bike will be an SR model..and they aren't like US models.......
Here's a basic rundown of the light wiring (US):
Wire from the lighting coil (yellow) goes to the light switch. The light switch output side feeds the voltage regulator (it's AC..not DC!) and the lights. The wire that carries current to the lights and is regulated is red. The VR is under the seat..the two-wire device bolted to the frame (not the multi-lead device attached to the filter box cover).
If 'running light' means 'taillight', and that light works correctly (doesn't vary with rpm as long as the bike is running at a moderate engine speed..it doesn't get WAY bright as revs go up), you are correct: You can run a wire from the running light bulb to the main bulb. They are not different voltages.
You can check that voltage with your meter. Again..AC..and look for 12-14VAC or so.
Likely the wiring is intact..just not hooked up.
Is it a twin UFO shell? The KDX will not run both lights with the standard (45W) lighting coil. You will need an aftermarket coil. That may be hard to find as Electrex (through Moose) doesn't make them anymore. Seems FRP didn't have any last I checked. Check RickyStator.
If it is a single lamp..wire one side of the lamp to a frame ground, the other side to the OUTput of the light switch..as long as that output DOES connect to the regulator (red wire).
Where be 'ya?
The point being, if you are UK, NZ or AU..your bike will be an SR model..and they aren't like US models.......
Here's a basic rundown of the light wiring (US):
Wire from the lighting coil (yellow) goes to the light switch. The light switch output side feeds the voltage regulator (it's AC..not DC!) and the lights. The wire that carries current to the lights and is regulated is red. The VR is under the seat..the two-wire device bolted to the frame (not the multi-lead device attached to the filter box cover).
If 'running light' means 'taillight', and that light works correctly (doesn't vary with rpm as long as the bike is running at a moderate engine speed..it doesn't get WAY bright as revs go up), you are correct: You can run a wire from the running light bulb to the main bulb. They are not different voltages.
You can check that voltage with your meter. Again..AC..and look for 12-14VAC or so.
Likely the wiring is intact..just not hooked up.
Is it a twin UFO shell? The KDX will not run both lights with the standard (45W) lighting coil. You will need an aftermarket coil. That may be hard to find as Electrex (through Moose) doesn't make them anymore. Seems FRP didn't have any last I checked. Check RickyStator.
If it is a single lamp..wire one side of the lamp to a frame ground, the other side to the OUTput of the light switch..as long as that output DOES connect to the regulator (red wire).
Consider the source
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- canyncarvr
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Well?
What's the deal Lucille?
What's the deal Lucille?
Consider the source
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It is a US version. Here is a picture of what I am talking about. Only the small bulb works but it puts out very little light so is useless. I tried connecting the leads from the small bulb to the larger bulb but it didn't do anything
This is the way the bike was when I got it. I have come to realize that it is an aftermarket headlight assembly, I am trying to get it to work with my limited knowledge.
This is the way the bike was when I got it. I have come to realize that it is an aftermarket headlight assembly, I am trying to get it to work with my limited knowledge.
- canyncarvr
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If you try to light up too much light (for example..a 100w bulb) with too little juice..what you get is nothing..and I expect that's what's happening. There should be some wattage/voltage numbers on at least the roundy bulb. What are they?
Take your meter and with the bulbs disconnected, measure what you get on the AC scale from the bike (the wires the bulbs connect to).
If you have a spare 12Vbattery (automotive/motorcycle) lying around, hook IT up to the light assy (no wires attached from the bike!), see if they light up.
IF you have a 20 amp (current) scale on your meter..hook your meter in series with one of the battery leads (thats' how you measure current..in series..makes no matter if it's the positive or negative side). What's the draw from the battery?
Don't try it with less than a 20 amp capable meter. Hook up one'a those bulbs to a 200ma (milliamp) range and you will blow a fuse in the meter. MOST 20 amp meter circuits are NOT FUSED..so be careful to not let wires/leads touch. An automotive battery will put out hundreds of amps if you cross things up.
A battery may not have the voltage to bother you if you grap ahold of the terminals with both hands...but don't try crossing the terminals with anything metal. If you do, things are going to get very hot, very fast..and that's before they catch on fire!
..and lots of arcy sparky!!
Point: If you know the current the bulbs take (from measuring it), that will tell you the wattage. If either/both of them are anything over 40W and you have the OEM lighting coil...they won't work. May be just dim...may be deader'n a doornail.
Take your meter and with the bulbs disconnected, measure what you get on the AC scale from the bike (the wires the bulbs connect to).
If you have a spare 12Vbattery (automotive/motorcycle) lying around, hook IT up to the light assy (no wires attached from the bike!), see if they light up.
IF you have a 20 amp (current) scale on your meter..hook your meter in series with one of the battery leads (thats' how you measure current..in series..makes no matter if it's the positive or negative side). What's the draw from the battery?
Don't try it with less than a 20 amp capable meter. Hook up one'a those bulbs to a 200ma (milliamp) range and you will blow a fuse in the meter. MOST 20 amp meter circuits are NOT FUSED..so be careful to not let wires/leads touch. An automotive battery will put out hundreds of amps if you cross things up.
A battery may not have the voltage to bother you if you grap ahold of the terminals with both hands...but don't try crossing the terminals with anything metal. If you do, things are going to get very hot, very fast..and that's before they catch on fire!
..and lots of arcy sparky!!
Point: If you know the current the bulbs take (from measuring it), that will tell you the wattage. If either/both of them are anything over 40W and you have the OEM lighting coil...they won't work. May be just dim...may be deader'n a doornail.
Consider the source
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- canyncarvr
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Except....the OEM Kawasaki bulb is a twin filament job. The one in your pic is not. So...it not being the SAME bulb..maybe it's not the same WATTAGE either?
The OEM light coil should power a 30W bulb.
Do you have the two wire thing (VR) screwed to the frame behind the airbox lid?
You mentioned having a multimeter...unhook the bulbs..connect your meter + to one of the lamp leads, the other to ground (frame ground..not paint). If you see nothing on the AC scale with the bike running (you're looking for 12-12VAC) try the OTHER lamp lead. What's there?
On the lead that you see NO voltage (assuming one has some volts, one does not), check THAT lead to frame ground on the ohms (resistance) scale, bike NOT running!!
What you got?
The OEM light coil should power a 30W bulb.
Do you have the two wire thing (VR) screwed to the frame behind the airbox lid?
You mentioned having a multimeter...unhook the bulbs..connect your meter + to one of the lamp leads, the other to ground (frame ground..not paint). If you see nothing on the AC scale with the bike running (you're looking for 12-12VAC) try the OTHER lamp lead. What's there?
On the lead that you see NO voltage (assuming one has some volts, one does not), check THAT lead to frame ground on the ohms (resistance) scale, bike NOT running!!
What you got?
Consider the source
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Well I played a littler more with it, I have come to the conclusion that the socket is bad or the bulb is bad.
Anybody see a reason why this would not work? Same wattage as stock
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0254483154
Anybody see a reason why this would not work? Same wattage as stock
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0254483154
- canyncarvr
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35W should work with your OEM coil. It won't work too good with an incandescent tail (1156/1157), but it would with and LED substitute.
As mentioned earlier..hook the light up to a 12V battery. Using a couple of clip cords or relatively small wire (not #12 Romex for example), connect the battery leads to the contact tabs on the shell. It should light just fine.
Disconnect any wiring from/to the shell when you hook up the battery. Size of the battery doesn't matter as long as it's 12 volts. Use a car battery (don't have to even take it out of your rig), a motorcycle, lawnmower..whatever. Check with your meter to make sure it's charged up (should be 12.6V or higher if it's fully charged).
You can use a battery charger as a source, too.
BTW...that socket configuration isn't too good. Not mechanically hardy enough to suit dirtbiking conditions. But..it should light up!
As mentioned earlier..hook the light up to a 12V battery. Using a couple of clip cords or relatively small wire (not #12 Romex for example), connect the battery leads to the contact tabs on the shell. It should light just fine.
Disconnect any wiring from/to the shell when you hook up the battery. Size of the battery doesn't matter as long as it's 12 volts. Use a car battery (don't have to even take it out of your rig), a motorcycle, lawnmower..whatever. Check with your meter to make sure it's charged up (should be 12.6V or higher if it's fully charged).
You can use a battery charger as a source, too.
BTW...that socket configuration isn't too good. Not mechanically hardy enough to suit dirtbiking conditions. But..it should light up!
Consider the source
Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
bike profile: !clicky!