Wiseco piston in

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reymund77
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Wiseco piston in

Post by reymund77 »

Just installed the wiseco piston into my 97 KDX220SR.....block looks good....stock piston out...

Dun feel good when I rode it out on the street....the engine felt tight, engine sounds good but can't rev up like before on the stock piston.

Carb is stock (33mm Keihin) with Boyesen Reed, 138mj, 45pj, air screw 1.5 out. FMF gnarly woods pipe...Maxima Castor 927 oil mixture at 18ml per liter.....had a Trail Tech Vapor and engine temp is about 82deg C...before on the stock piston is just 71deg C.

Is it okay?..planning to do hard run in but no confidence after the rebuilt....

Look forward to advise from bro here
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Post by radonc73 »

Air bubbles in the coolant?
Riding is living everything else, is just waiting.
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m0rie
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Post by m0rie »

Did you run thru a full break in cycle before taking it out on the street? Possibly your KIPS isn't opening either if the top end is not there.
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Post by reymund77 »

Coolant looks ok....got new Maxima/Motul coolant in there and did a flush...open up the cap, rev and can see the coolant level drops down and I top it up to the brim....the coolant also seems to be "spinning" and not shooting out when I rev....looks normal rite?

Haven did a full break in cycle?..how u go abt doing it?....its jus new piston in old cylinder...previously did the same(replace new piston on old cylinder in my 99 WR400F)...nvr really break in...took it out from the bikeshop and rode for like 20km on the street to the trail side and racing the next moment....... :supz: ....sold the bike last yr and last known, bike still rocking strong

How to tell if KIPS is opening or working properly?....can feel a pull at around 6000rpm....never really red-line the thing yet...jus pull til 7-8000rpm on the move...and while stationary or in neutral, blip the throttle and vapor shows 9500rpm...not sure if tats max out...but can feel its sorta tight aka virgin... :roll:
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Post by firffighter »

check your owner's manual for break in. I just did top end on my 220 and did 10 minutes idle, then 10 min. cool down. Then 20 min. easy riding, cool down. Then 30 min. moderate riding, cool down. Should be good to go.
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Post by fuzzy »

but can feel its sorta tight
The most important thing here, and ALWAYS with a wiseco for that matter (due to clearance) is to make sure the bike is fully warmed up before giving it the juice. Then you can run the snot out of it. You'll feel the rings seat....When it doesn't feel 'tight' anymore. Try to 'engine brake' as much as you accellerate in random intervals untul you feel this happen. Then it's done.

There are two types of break-ins. Slow as firefighter mentioned, and rapid as I mentiond. Problem with either is missing the window to get perfect ring seal, and I only hope that you didn't quit running it right before that happened. You've already gone past the 'slow' method so just go run it as mentioned above.

Read this:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Post by reymund77 »

thanks for the link Fuzzy....read abt this sometime back while I'm still on the WR4 and ran in exactly the same way...new piston, warm up nicely and next minute, on a race in the woods....its been almost 1.5yrs and tat bike is still strong and no complaint from the current owner...

Wif the vapor, I'll startup the bike and move off only when the vapor records the engine temp >39 deg C....anything less, the water temp don't shows a value, I'll just keep it idle......I'll only wack the bike when water temp >50 or 60 deg C.....how does tat sound?...ok?
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Post by fuzzy »

Yeah, 5-10mins
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Post by reymund77 »

finally...bike is run-in today at a flat track....warm up the bike and did a few short burst, cool.....and repeat.......engine temperature dropped..now stabilise at around 70-75deg C........bike low and mid seems to improved versus stock piston.....the tight feeling is gone and bike is very willing to be rev.......thanks for the tips on wiseco and break in...

Next to be done is getting correct spring rate for my bike front and rear suspension..........anybody got 4.6kg/mm or 4.8kg/mm rear shock spring laying around?...or 0.38/ 0.4kg/mm front fork springs or gold valves?..I'm about 145lb w/o gears
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Post by fuzzy »

:supz:
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Post by kicknrocks »

After reading fuzzy's link above, I decided to take the plunge and hammer it during the break in. I first did a ten minute idle cycle (before reading the article that says not to do this) then second cycle, warmed the bike up and ran it vigorously for just over twenty miles; first five up hill, on and off the throttle, second five back down hill, on and off the throttle, then a few on paved road, and a few laps up and down a small mountain, then back home via roads. I could feel the blow by at high RPMs for the first half of the ride, then felt 'em seat and everything seemed to click just right by the end of the ride. I immediately changed the oil when I stopped.

The article specifically cites this procedure for four strokes, and never mentions two strokes. The logic is sound though; it is the high pressure of compression and combustion that forces the rings agains the contours of the cylinder. It also states that you have only one chance to get this right, and once youpve passed that window you're done. It takes alot of pressure to mold those rings, so higher RPMs are more effective.

I would recommend reading the article for anyone who hasn't, then making your own decision.
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Post by fuzzy »

Yeah, I don't know why he makes the '4-cycle' statement. Most important things are:

Don't heat cycle except for cheking for leaks

Fully warm up

Don't use synthetic oil

Add in a fair amount of engine braking

You don't need to be WOT in high gear....Just under load.
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Post by kicknrocks »

there was plenty of under load going on.
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Post by reymund77 »

****...I've actually break in the bike with Maxima Castor 927 oil......but nothing seems to be wrong....hopefully... :mrgreen:

Noted one thing on the KDX....the seats of the bike makes me hard to shift my body around (sitting upfront when cornering etc) unlike my old WR400F or KTM200EXC....I'm using standard seat foam with gripper seat material....or maybe I've been off-riding for a yr from the femur fracture and I'm just too stiff.... :roll:

Any way to get around it....btw, I'm only 1.71 meter tall.
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Post by kicknrocks »

1.71 metres tall . . . how many mg/L is that?
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Post by fuzzy »

****...I've actually break in the bike with Maxima Castor 927 oil
Nothing fully synthetic about that, but I always go with cheap weedeater oil.
'91 KDX 200 Project $300 KDX
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