Turbine Core 2 disassembly

dave04kdx · Post by **dave04kdx** » 03:16 pm Apr 05 2005

It's time to repack my silencer for the first time. From the FMF instructions it sounds like the silencer has to be taken off the bike, held with stinger pointing down, strike the canister mounting tab on a board to remove the outer canister. Has any one figured out a better way to disassemble the unit? Taking the silencer off the bike isnt a big deal. I dont like the idea of "striking the tab on a board in a downward motion".

Thanks

David

bradf · Post by **bradf** » 07:19 pm Apr 05 2005

I heard the TC II must have the rivets drilled out. Is that true? If so, it will need stainless rivets to put back together.

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 08:12 pm Apr 05 2005

Mine has screws in one end and rivets in the other end. I just remove the screws and give the tab a few light blows with a rubber mallet whilst holding the outer casing and Voila its out...

IdahoCharley · Post by **IdahoCharley** » 09:10 pm Apr 05 2005

KAY DEE EXER does it the same way I do. Sometimes you have to work the inlet cap back and forth a little. The silicone sealant has a good hold of it.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 10:04 pm Apr 05 2005

Are you all talking about an FMF silencer or spark arrestor? I am going to help wsjkawasaki repack his FMF silencer on his '97 KDX220. Can someone give a more detailed answer? I don't have a 95 and newer bike, and the '97 is two hours away, so I have nothing to look at and think about while reading the current posts. I am not familiar with the silencer, and we won't have the internet there where we are working on the bike.

Thanks a lot!

Post by **Indawoods** » 10:15 pm Apr 05 2005

Jason wrote:I don't have a 95 and newer bike, and the '97 is two hours away, so I have nothing to look at and think about while reading the current posts. I am not familiar with the silencer, and we won't have the internet there where we are working on the bike.

Thanks a lot!

Why not?

Have you checked their site Jason?

http://www.fmfracing.com/product_instructions.asp

Post by **KDXGarage** » 10:37 pm Apr 05 2005

Thanks for the link. I e-mailed the instructions as an attachment. Maybe he will print them out. If not, maybe one of us will remember how to do it. I get what you guys are saying now.

Thanks!

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 11:41 pm Apr 05 2005

Mine is a silencer only, no spark arrester.
When its pulled apart you have two parts (what I will call), the cannister thingy with the end cap attached and the silencer pipe that you wrap with packing.
I little trick I do when putting the silencer back together after packing is;

Put your finger inside the end cap hole and as you slide the freshly packed silencer pipe thingy into the cannister you will feel the pipe and you can centre it and slide it straight in.

If both ends are "factory" riveted make sure you DON'T drill out the end cap side, it all slides out from the other end.

I don't know if you guys even have a problem getting it to line back up, but I do every time and this method makes it painless. Cheers Trev

Post by **KDXGarage** » 11:58 pm Apr 05 2005

KAY DEE EXER, do you have screws or rivets to remove for a simple repacking? You take the asteners off in the front of the silencer (not spark arrestor), then hold the pipe and tap the body downward, to separate the two, right?

The instructions on the FMF site said 4mm screws, but I am just worried.

That finger centering method is what I have used. It works well for me.

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 12:25 am Apr 06 2005

I'm pretty certain they are allen head screws.

I actually hold the body or cannister thingy and hit the tab on the pipe thingy. In other words I hit the steel mounting tab rather than the aluminium one. You with me ??

Post by **KDXGarage** » 12:54 am Apr 06 2005

No, but I will be on Friday or Saturday, whenever we work on his silencer. It is a PowerCore II. I think I am straightened out enough. Thanks everyone for the help.

Sorry to bumrush your thread, Diamond Dave.

dave04kdx · Post by **dave04kdx** » 10:23 am Apr 06 2005

Hey Guys

Thanks for the input. No problem Jason, having you hijack my thread is probably the only excitement I will get today until I get home from work!

It is correct you DON'T have to drill the rivets to dissassemble the silencer. I did however drill the rivets and remove the rear stinger piece of mine. I had a big rock jump out of nowhere and crush it.

A brass drift, sandbag and some choice words and it is looking ok now.

The screws that hold in the inner part of the turbine core 2 spark arrestor are a round head machine type that accept a 4mm allen wrench for removal and installation.
(The correct name for the screws that need to be removed to take out inner core of silencer is, "Button Head Socket screws".)

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 02:14 pm Apr 06 2005

The TCII repack instructions are a bit different from others (say..from the PC SA).

After you take out the 'button head socket screws', the outer cannister can be removed from the perforated core. It might need to be tapped some..especially if it was put together with silicon (as is normal practice).

The instructions included with my TCII are a bit different from the .pdf web set. The instructions I have say to place some packing around the arrestor (inside the cannister) in addition to wrapping the preforated core. I didn't do that. I did wrap the core such that 'some' packing extended from the core itself. Have done that several times. Bike runs fine...checked at close to 90db last event..so I guess it worked out OK.

Time to repack mine, too.... Thanks for the reminder!

dave04kdx · Post by **dave04kdx** » 09:38 am Apr 07 2005

I got the silencer rear cap riveted back on last night, got the silencer packed and reassembled. Thanks for all the input.

I will know when it is time to repack again by the exhaust sound. My bike sounds crisp again, not muffled.

We had a thread going a while back about the type of packing everyone uses. I am going to pay the extra 7 bucks next time and get the good packing. The cheapo Home Depot bag-0-glass is harder to work with. The original FMF packing I took out was shot , but it was still in nice layered sheets.

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 10:20 am Apr 07 2005

If you need pics Jason I'll repack mine tomorrow and take pics? Mine is a PC2.

Post by **KDXGarage** » 10:30 am Apr 07 2005

No need to worry. I am leaving today and working on it tomorrow.

Thanks for the offer though!

KDXer · Post by **KDXer** » 10:52 am Apr 07 2005

No Problem !!

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 11:23 am Apr 15 2005

Dave!

You mentioned removing the stinger.

Just the end cap, or the arrestor part, too?

I took my TCII apart last night. Thought I'd do it up right, take the arrestor out to get the packing out that's pretty well stuck in it.

I ended up with the whole mess in the garbage can!

I didn't see any tag weld joints anyplace, but the arrestor came out pretty tweaked! No way I was going to get it back in.

Maybe mine was just stuck in the cannister real bad. Well...or real good, depending on how you look at it!

So...you got yours out?

Thanks!

dave04kdx · Post by **dave04kdx** » 12:56 pm Apr 15 2005

Hey Carver

Mine came apart fairly easy. I rode the last half of the ride a couple of weekends ago with the end cap smashed, top rivet missing and whole thing rattling something fierce. Anyway, I drilled the remaining rivet out, pulled the end cap. I removed the inner core and packing. I then took off outer canister. When I took the packing off the inner core the end of the drilled core was bent pretty bad on the end cap side. I trued everything back the best I could riveted the end cap back on and did a test fit before assembly with the packing. I had a HARD time with assembly when using the packing. I had to take some of the packing off the inner core to get the silencer back together. I am going to go ahead and buy the good packing instead of the home depot insulation next time I think having the packing in the laminated form will help because of the slight tweak in my silencer I am going to have to deal with from now on.

I had to make sure the end cap mated correctly with the inner core before trying to assemble the whole unit. I noticed any misalignment of the inner core to end cap made it impossible to get the whole mess back in the canister.

Hope this helps

David

canyncarvr · Post by **canyncarvr** » 01:21 pm Apr 15 2005

Well, not exactly. I don't read any reference to the arrestor part....

What rivets did you remove? Just the three on the end? That WILL get the end cap off, but not the arrestor.

The subject of this thread is 'Turbine Core II...'...but you refer to it as a 'silencer'.

And this: 'The screws that hold in the inner part of the turbine core 2 spark arrestor are a round head machine type that accept a 4mm allen wrench for removal and installation.' doesn't fit, either.

The 4mm button screws hold the silencer core (the part that is wrapped) in the cannister, but NOT the spark arrestor.

The arrestor has an inverted cone on the input side and what looks like fan blades (thus the 'turbine' part of the name) on the other. It sits between the end cap and the silencer core.

The whole thing is made of four pieces..the silencer core, the end cap, the arrestor and the cannister.

Maybe I'm being unclear...or just failing to understand the simple...but I see nothing said that refers to the spark arrestor part.

FmF's instructions make no reference to it, either.

How about this...if you took out the silencer core and took off the end cap; looked into the cannister and could see all the way through it...you don't have a TCII.

...or someone else modified it.

KDXRIDER.NET

KDXRIDER.NET

Turbine Core 2 disassembly

Turbine Core 2 disassembly