Whats every ones jetting and altitude? 220 and 200?

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Mr. Wibbens
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

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KDX220PILOT wrote: Just saying what my setup is and didnt want to start an "I know more than you thread,"
Good thing! :supz:

Sounds like you know..... :butthead:
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

This is just plain silly.

Yes. You said what your setup is. You also stated a number of 'facts' that are incorrect. Misleading. Simply wrong.

I corrected some of them.

I did not call you names, call you stupid, threaten violence on your person. Nope. None of that. That was your response to being corrected. Not a bit of, 'I was wrong' or, 'I misread that.'

Where 'I know more than you' becomes necessary is when the stated situation is so far off-base as to be dangerous with the likely result of harm, damage, and co$t...not to mention the spreading of misinformation.

Instead of taking the opportunity to learn something, your reaction was anger. Threats. A state of pissment that should embarrass a four year old.

I regret having wasted your time. I did know exactly where it was headed before it even got started. That was obvious from the gitgo. I gave you the chance to prove me wrong... learn me sumthin'.

So much for great expectations. I didn't learn a thing I didn't already know. Where's the fun in that?

Oh well. :neutral:

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Using a perceived level of knowledge to boost my self worth.
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Post by KarlP »

RB carb and head
150MJ/38 pilot
CEK @ 3
no air box lid

The above information is provided for reference only, and does not in any way constitute a suggestion on my part as to what any one else should do.

I also use Golden Spectro at 40:1. If you don't put oil in your gas like I do you will sieze your engine. :lol:
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KX100 for the boy
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Post by KDX220PILOT »

2. You do not know what you are doing when it comes to jetting this bike. If it runs good on that jetting it's because you have a serious air leak somewhere other than just the lid removed.


I dont mind being corrected but its how the correction is presented, as to not offend respectfully, or as to disrespectfully offend potentially angering and already half pissed Irishman. :rolleyes: Where else could I have an air leak? I have sprayed carb cleaner around the intake boot and the filter side boot without any change in idle, the bike idles perfectly, starts first kick even cold. could this be some rare anomoly? Absolutly no fouling, I tell you the bike runs perfect, crisp, power feels to have nearly doubled, diggs really hard and smooth when I nail the throttle and the plug is not wet at all, slightly brown.
Last edited by KDX220PILOT on 03:47 pm Apr 22 2008, edited 1 time in total.
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skipro3
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Post by skipro3 »

You can have an air leak at your crank shaft.

You said you started rich and worked down to a 160 main? What did you start with? Why? What is a stock 220 main jet? What did the bike's plug look like with the stock jet before you decided to go fatter and jet down?

Sorry for all the questions, but your story doesn't add up. I am not a know-it-all. Mr. or Mrs. You best try and find out why your bike, a 220, runs so well with that jetting. Maybe the previous owner put a different carb on it. May want to check that out; carb body size. A 220 should have a 33mm I think?
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Post by skipro3 »

Here's my 220 plug with a 150 main
Image

Here's my 220 plug with a 145 main
Image

Notice the dark band near the bottom of the insulator. This is a fresh plug with threads cut off so a reading can be done proper. I won't go into how to perform a plug chop, you did say you were skilled with this and I don't wanna piss you off......
Jerry

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Post by skipro3 »

Here's a picture of a plug out of my 220 after about 100 miles of riding. The insulator color doesn't mean crap. That black ring means something.
But, you knew that even though you posted earlier that the color of the insulator meant something in relation to air/fuel mixture.
Image
Jerry

I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
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Post by KDX220PILOT »

Hey, all smart allic comments aside, :wink: I got home a little while ago, and resprayed the carb completely down with starting fluid and carb cleaner, both sides of the intake boot, top and where the boot meets the airbox, no response at all from the motor, kept idleing perfect, when you say a leak at your crank shaft, do you mean where the cylinder meets the block? Or were exactly could the crank shaft be leaking? I once again warmed it up and rode it down threw the neighborhood and it runs awesome, tons of power, runs way harder then I ever thought it could, I cant tell if the carb is stock, its a slide Kehin pwk carb, black screw on top cap, thats all I can tell. The plug is brownish, looks just as it did when I had the airbox lid on with the 145 main, I started with a 162 and then tried a 155 and then a 158, the plug was white as snow with the 155 and 158, and the motor felt starved, started looking like a normal browish color with the 160 and it absolutely started opening up and hauling with the 160. to rich with the 162, I'm at exact sea level here, dont know how much that makes a diffrence, I have always had better running two strokes when Ive jetted them richer, oddly enough.
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Post by m0rie »

Behind the flywheel is where Ski is referring to it possibly leaking. The head or base gasket it another possible leak area.
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Post by KDX220PILOT »

Heres pics of the carb, i'm sure its stock.... The crankcase oil stays like brand new, honey colored wouldnt it get dirty if it was leaking at the crank? the longest I have ever gone without changeing the crankcas oil is 1 month and only riding on the weekends, it still looked new, also I premix 32:1 with Klotz techniplate.
Image
Image
sprayed eather around the flywheel to, no response.
Image
Image
Image

I love this bike!!! :supz: :supz:
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skipro3
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Post by skipro3 »

See? you don't know how to jet. Everything you said was wrong. Did you look at my photos? Jetting by the insulator body color is wrong. Research how to do a plug chop.

You don't know what the crank shaft is? Well, it is not the union of the cylnder to the transmission. I'm going to tell you, then I'm going to ignore this thread since you have proven you not only don't know how to jet a bike properly, you also don't know much more than how to start and put that bike of yours in motion. You need to take some time and do a little research on the forum here. Read up what jetting is, how to do a proper job jetting each of the carb circuits. Also get a factory manual and discover where the basic engine components are located and what the proper terminology is. I don't know if you did the piston swap on your own, but if you did, better get on that new manual fast.....

Oh, yea.... The crankshaft, sometimes casually abbreviated to crank, is the part of an engine which translates reciprocating linear piston motion into rotation.

Image



The red thing is the crankshaft. See where it goes through the "block" on the right side? That is where you can get an air leak.

BTW, what is the bike's response to spraying ether into the air box? Nice start out as a reference. Now everyone keep quiet. Do NOT say what should happen when he adds the fuel into the airbox. It's a test to see if he really does it and if he's got an air leak. m0rie, you hear me? Shhhhh!!!!
Last edited by skipro3 on 06:40 pm Apr 22 2008, edited 1 time in total.
Jerry

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Post by Indawoods »

You don't have crankcase oil....(the premix is your crankcase oiler) you only have clutch oil, so that doesn't mean anything.

You would measure the cylinder side openning on the carb to determine what size your carb is... 33mm... 35mm ....etc. Looks stock.

The only way to tell for sure if your crank is leaking is to do a leakdown test. I have never done one successfully but a dealership should be able to do one.

This is driving me crazy.....
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Post by KDX220PILOT »

>|QBB<[/url]
skipro3 wrote:See? you don't know how to jet. Everything you said was wrong. Did you look at my photos? Jetting by the insulator body color is wrong. Research how to do a plug chop.

You don't know what the crank shaft is? Well, it is not the union of the cylnder to the transmission. I'm going to tell you, then I'm going to ignore this thread since you have proven you not only don't know how to jet a bike properly, you also don't know much more than how to start and put that bike of yours in motion. You need to take some time and do a little research on the forum here. Read up what jetting is, how to do a proper job jetting each of the carb circuits. Also get a factory manual and discover where the basic engine components are located and what the proper terminology is. I don't know if you did the piston swap on your own, but if you did, better get on that new manual fast.....

Oh, yea.... The crankshaft, sometimes casually abbreviated to crank, is the part of an engine which translates reciprocating linear piston motion into rotation.

Image



The red thing is the crankshaft. See where it goes through the "block" on the right side? That is where you can get an air leak.

BTW, what is the bike's response to spraying ether into the air box? Nice start out as a reference. Now everyone keep quiet. Do NOT say what should happen when he adds the fuel into the airbox. It's a test to see if he really does it and if he's got an air leak. m0rie, you hear me? Shhhhh!!!!
Ive read just about enough of the smart ass comments, Ive managed to keep all my **** running all these years doing all my own clutch work, carb work, and piston work, 2 and 4 stroke, NEVER had a bike or quad motor fail me, wrong forum to talk kdx's, as for most of you guys who are $#@&ing know it all's, YOU CAN $#@& OFF!!!!!! You wont be troubled by me again on your sorry ass forum... YOU LOOSE, YOU GET NOTHING, GOOD DAY SIR!!!
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Post by skipro3 »

Now, for anyone interested in my question;
If you add additional fuel into the carbs throat via the air cleaner, the motor should...................... (drum roll please...............)
Stumble and stall due to flooding. See, you can't add additional fuel if there's no air to mix with it without if flooding. If there is an air leak, the bike should rev if there is an air leak ANYWHERE!!! The only reason to spray that ether around is to isolate the air leak. But first, determine IF there is an air leak by adding the spray to the air filter area when the motor is running.

I recommend Mr. KDX220Pilot go visit Jaybird over on DRN. I'm sure Jay would LOVE to hear about how Pilot maintains his sprockets and chains!! HaW!!
Jerry

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Post by Indawoods »

He is now... or he won't be here anymore since this is MY sorry ass forum. :partyman:
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"People ate cows a thousand years ago for the same reason we eat them now. Cause they are easy to catch.We're not savages,we're just lazy. A cheetah could taste like chocolate heroin. But will never know. Those bastards are fast!!! "
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Post by 2001kdx »

That's it! I've had it! You guys are too smart! I'm leaving this sorry ass forum!

:lol: :lol: :lol:
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Post by skipro3 »

Ya know, he says this is a sorry ass forum like that's a bad thing. I kinda thought that was the way this sight was conceived. Now I've actually seen a couple of the asses in person. No, not the face, the real thing; the bum, the butt, the deriere, the tush, the hams, the full moon!!! Ah ha!!! My eyes!!

I love you guys!!! (sniff)
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Jerry

I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
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