KDXRIDER.NET

Today I went for a ride and my bike would not shift into neutral if I was not moving and had the clutch pulled in w/ the bike running. It would just go back and forth between 1st and 2nd. The clutch doesn't seem to be dragging and I can click it into neutral when it isn't running or when im moving with the engine running w/ the clutch pulled in, but if I stop moving it won't. It shifts fine through the gears and only seems to have the problem when it is fully warmed up. I have fresh oil in the tranny and I can kick it in gear w/ the clutch pulled in and roll it when it is in gear with the clutch pulled in without any drag on the rear wheel. It also makes noise when I shift into first gear from neutral. What could this be and is it a big problem? It has never done this before until today.

It's actually a common thing. When was the last time you changed the oil in the tranny? If i were you i would let the bike warm up, change the oil. Put 1 qt back in and see if it goes away.

It's important to warm the bike up so you get most of the residue mixed in the oil and not sitting on the parts.

Sometimes after a long ride it gets tough to find neutral. When my oil gets dirty it gets tough,changing the oil makes it perfect.

When was the last time you changed the oil in the tranny

I have fresh oil in the tranny

Different oil?
Is it HARD to find neutral in gear, or IMPOSSIBLE?
Mine is hard to get to neutral, but it's normal.

Neutral can't be found at all and the oil was just changed. I warmed it up before I changed it too.

Different oil?

I did put a different brand of oil in it, could that make a difference?. (Valvoline instead of Mobile 1)

Re: Could that make a difference?

Yep.

The reason you cannot 'find' neutral is exactly due to what doesn't 'seem' to be happening...the clutch is dragging...not fully engaging.

Check your clutch cable..adjusted correctly? Too much free play? Even at the best of times..the KDX clutch is less than stellar when it comes to engagement (unhooking the engine from the tranny).

Not something that shows up quick..but worn clutch plates get you less clutch 'movement', too. There is a procedure for proper 'alignment' of the clutch assy that involves placing shims at the throwout bearing. What you're after is for the actuating lever to move through a 90º angle to the cable when the clutch is actuated. That positioning gives the clutchpack the most movement..engagement (unhook).

All of that is general btw...as your situation came about with an oil change.

You will be better off using an oil that is designed for wet clutch use. If Valvoline is your choice, use their motorcycle oil..which is..you guessed it..designed for wet clutch use. One each motor oils will work..just not as well.

You will be better served sticking with a particular oil, too. Mobil1 is synthetic..Valvoline (one each) isn't. Find what works...stick with it.

Another btw...NEVER use any oil that has friction modifiers in it..anything that claims to increase mileage due to reduced friction. That oil don't work in wet clutch situations.

The previous owner used 80w Golden Spectro gear oil and thats what was in the bike when I got it. It seemed to work pretty darn good. Should I be running that even though the manual calls for 10w-30 or 10w-40. Is it okay to use heavy gear oil like that?

I run cheap 10 w 40 in mine, well, not real cheap! Change it every other ride. Heavier oils produce stiction. Stiction, hence the word, can make the clutch plates stick together, resulting in a lot of problems. Try running 10W40 for a bit, then change it, and run it some more. Works great for me

I'm a cheapy, too.

A while back (last spring?) it was suggested to run 2 parts "F" Type ATF w/ 1 part GTX 10w40. I believe the idea with the mix is low cost and good viscosity for the application.

I've used this ever since and performance is just fine, costs about $2.20 per quart. I change it frequently. FWIW.

91kdx200 wrote: . . . I can kick it in gear w/ the clutch pulled in and roll it when it is in gear with the clutch pulled in without any drag on the rear wheel . . .

I would like to be able to roll my bike with no drag when in gear, clutch engaged. Mine drags a bit, a bit being a lot when I'm tired! Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but your ability to do this is a bit unusual. Perhaps it points to the problem somehow??

91kdx200 wrote:
. . . I can kick it in gear w/ the clutch pulled in and roll it when it is in gear with the clutch pulled in without any drag on the rear wheel . . .


I would like to be able to roll my bike with no drag when in gear, clutch engaged. Mine drags a bit, a bit being a lot when I'm tired! Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but your ability to do this is a bit unusual. Perhaps it points to the problem somehow??

I thought you were supposed to be able to do that. I should have added that I can only roll or kick it in gear w/ clutch engaged when it is fully warmed up. If it is not warmed up I can't do that.

With a clutch basket that isn't too worn with clean oil you should be able to kick start it in gear. Won't start quite as easily as when in neutral is all.

It sound like the problem is the new oil you put in.

Gear oil (the GearSaver mentioned) weights are not the same as motor oil weights. An 80W gear oil isn't..like...yanno...twice as thick as 40W motor oil.

BTW...the 'W' doesn't stand for 'Weight'.

Starting in gear works..like KawaG said...it won't be as easy as neutral.

With the engine NOT running, in gear, clutch pulled...chances of pushing it without the back tire skidding are slim-to-none. Not until the 'stiction' is broken loose.

A large part of what separates the plates is the FORCE of the tranny oil against them when the basket is spinning.

While it may be 'OK' to run what is NOT spec'd...there is likely some reason there IS a spec in the first place. Why not use it?

That said...most nobody runs the spec'd premix ratio.......

Your problem is likely from changing oil types. That problem may go away after you use the 'new' oil a bit..maybe will take a few changes.

The specified oil (motor oil, NOT energy saving, 10-30 10-40...stick 'W's where you wanna) is relatively inexpensive and works. Change it often.

Problem solved.

I just noticed this and thought I would throw in a thought.

My shift lever worked itself loose. Shifting got sloppy but I'm so sloppy I didn't really notice. I started to think my whole tranny was coming apart, even changed the oil for once.

Tightened up the shifter and now I got a slick shifting tranny!

Hmmmm, simple **** always kills me.

It's amazing MY bike runs AT ALL