HELP!!! KDX won't idle

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fLyNbYu
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HELP!!! KDX won't idle

Post by fLyNbYu »

2001 kdx220r RB head(pump gas) and carb mod, FMF pipe and S/A. It will idle perfectly for 10 minutes or so then once it's totally warmed up it'll go KAPUT!!! Anytime I pull the clutch in.....dead if I don't blip the throttle constantly. Musta kicked that KDX like a 50 times today, my leg feels like it's gonna fall off. I changed the plug, still died out, but started easier. The bike runs like a bat outta hell so I think the jetting is pretty close. I believe there a 38 pilot and 140 main at the moment. Can anybody help my poor leg?


Edit: Running 40:1 redline racing 2t oil
'01 KDX 220R
'01 XR650R SuperTerd
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

Idle it higher... Mine starts acting like that after an hour or so of riding and I have to idle it a little higher.

Pulling the clutch in should take more load off the motor so I don't know why it would die then.

Make sure your air filter is clean and oiled.
Last edited by Indawoods on 07:41 am Apr 13 2008, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by KDX Butterfly »

As for your leg, kicking it won't fix it (oviously) so quit kicking the bike before you break something on yourself and can't ride it once you get it running right.

(I'll let the "experts" tell ya how to take care of the rest.) :wink:
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Post by 91kdx200 »

Anytime I pull the clutch in.....dead if I don't blip the throttle constantly
So does it only die when it is in gear w/ the clutch pulled in or does it also do it if you have it in neutral?
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Jeb
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Post by Jeb »

Has your bike sat un-ridden for a while? If so, have you cleaned the carb lately?

What size pilot do you have?

What's the impact of adjusting the A/S, i.e. do you adjust this for optimal throttle response, etc?

Do you use/need the choke when starting cold?

Adjusting the idle higher will work (I had to run my idle a little higher) but if you have to adjust it a lot it points to a different problem.

If your bike idles fine while cold then doesn't want to idle when it's warmed (even with lots of idle screw adjustment) consider dropping the pilot one size (and adjust the A/S for best performance as described in another recent thread) to see what happens. If it helps with the idling you'll likely benefit with overall performance at lower throttle openings as well.

Keep us informed on your progress.
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fuzzy
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Post by fuzzy »

Try everything else first, but this could be a sign of a worn top-end. How much time is on it?
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fLyNbYu
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Post by fLyNbYu »

Dies in neutral and in gear with the clutch pulled in and idle is turned all the way up. Uni air filter freshly cleaned and oiled.

Bike is ridden 1-2 times a week and I'm running a 38 pilot with the A/S adjusted for optimal throttle response. Already dropped the pilot from a 40 to the current 38 and choke is used to start the bike when cold.

As far as hours on the top-end, there are alot of hours on it. I should've kept better records ,but didn't. I want to say at least a year and half now since it's been done. When do you know it's time for a top end? What are some of the signs/symptoms?
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Post by fuzzy »

Not idling ;) Can do a compression check (warm motor). A worn top end will still pull decent in the mid-top although you'll be several HP shy of potential. Not saying for certain that's the problem, but it could be.
'91 KDX 200 Project $300 KDX
'95 KDX 200 Project $600 KDX
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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: Kicking yourself silly...

Been there. That's how I got around to an FRP kicker...bending the OEM lever over to the point of not being able to keep my foot on it.

It's most likely one of the two...engine condition (top-end) or jetting. Mine was jetting.

What is your plug gapped to?

You could have a galled idle screw...keeping it from raising the slide as much as it would if it wasn't goobered.

Re: 'When do you know...'

One symptom is what you're experiencing. You know now! :wink:

Besides, if it has an OEM piston in it, yesterday isn't soon enough to get rid of it.

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