Lowering Links

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AtomicKDX

Lowering Links

Post by AtomicKDX »

Need to lower my '03 KDX220, now how much should I expect lowering links to lower seat height? How do I accommodate the front? Do I push the forks up in the clamps too?
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

Need to lower....

!. Why?

If it's a matter of 'comfort' and being able to dab at the ground with your feet as you ride...get over it. Dabbing is a good way to break your leg..also a great way to lose traction and get hung up in places you shouldn't. You will be far better served learning to ride with your feet on the pegs.

I know guys that started riding as little kids..on bikes they couldn't possibly do anything other than sit on. Their Dad would start it...they would ride until the either ran out of gas, or came back to the staging area to negotiate a stop right next to a tree so they wouldn't fall over.

That said, in answer to your questions.............

Kouba Links will get you the most 'down', because they offer the longest links for the KDX. They have three different lengths (if memory serves)...pick your poison. They lower in terms of INCHES.

Yes, to balance the bike you will raise the front forks in the clamps. Obviously, you won't be getting any 3" out of that...so you will be at a disadvantage level-wise if you drop the back probably over an inch or so.

FWIW, the proper way to shorten a bike is internally in the suspension components. That's not cheap..which is why it generally isn't done.

Devol makes lowering links for the KDX..but they are nowhere near the length of the Koubas. At 'max' length on the Devols (+1.5mm or so), seat heighth is lowered less than 1/2".

Good luck!

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Post by scheckaet »

how about cuting the foam of your seat a bit?
AtomicKDX

Post by AtomicKDX »

Your opinions and advice are well taken. Right now, I can tippy-toe on both sides at the same time. Some of the knarly rock hill climbs that I've seen others do, are riders that put their legs down to help them keep their balance as they work the clutch to get up the hill while they lose their momentum. I, on the other hand, can't put my feet down firm enough to do this. I suppose your first suggestion is to practice enough to not lose momentum and get up the hill w/o "dabbing". Hmmm, I keep trying this and I keep laying the bike down...not fun, plenty sweating, and fighting it all the time. Another problem I am finding out is that the front end wants to go other places than I am wanting to steer it....something is not right and it is not tuned in. I was just thinking that even an small 1-inch lowering would make a big difference to help me control it....not true?


>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:Need to lower....

!. Why?

If it's a matter of 'comfort' and being able to dab at the ground with your feet as you ride...get over it. Dabbing is a good way to break your leg..also a great way to lose traction and get hung up in places you shouldn't. You will be far better served learning to ride with your feet on the pegs.

I know guys that started riding as little kids..on bikes they couldn't possibly do anything other than sit on. Their Dad would start it...they would ride until the either ran out of gas, or came back to the staging area to negotiate a stop right next to a tree so they wouldn't fall over.

That said, in answer to your questions.............

Kouba Links will get you the most 'down', because they offer the longest links for the KDX. They have three different lengths (if memory serves)...pick your poison. They lower in terms of INCHES.

Yes, to balance the bike you will raise the front forks in the clamps. Obviously, you won't be getting any 3" out of that...so you will be at a disadvantage level-wise if you drop the back probably over an inch or so.

FWIW, the proper way to shorten a bike is internally in the suspension components. That's not cheap..which is why it generally isn't done.

Devol makes lowering links for the KDX..but they are nowhere near the length of the Koubas. At 'max' length on the Devols (+1.5mm or so), seat heighth is lowered less than 1/2".

Good luck!
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Post by scheckaet »

How tall are you, and what's your inseam?
Is your suspension setup right FOR YOUR weight and riding style? When was the last service on it?
This could also make a huge difference especially on hill rocky climb. I had my shock redone and revalved by fredette not long ago and was amazed at how much of a difference it made.
I use to never seat on the bike cuz it would beat me up like a ragdoll in a washing machine on a spinnig cycle. Now I can seat when I want and don't get beat up, (i.e bounce alll over the place on the trail)
I'm not very tall (5'7) and can also tip toe my feet on both side but htis was never really an issue to me, always been use to keep both feet on the pegs (learn riding on a trial bike)
good luck
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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: 'I am finding out is that the front end wants to go other places than I am wanting to steer it....'

Note what scheckaet said...'compliance' of the shock has a whole lot to do with where the front goes.

A good number of other things do, too. Fork springs that don't 'fit' you (not the correct rate for your weight/riding style/proficiency), too high a preload, too fast a rebound setting (if you have one..OEM forks don't)...

Scheckaet already asked...but what ARE your shock settings? Have you set your race sag? A properly maintained (serviced at least once in awhile) and setup shock will make a BIG difference in how your front-end acts.

I realize it can be aggravating to ask a simple question and get way too much 'irrelevant' response...but lots of things do figure into the sorts of things you asked about.

Kouba links are not that spendy..look'em up on the web..buy a set..see how you like them. Lowering may well help you 'control' the situation..but it is likely a situation that can be remedied by directly addressing the root of it...not its effect.

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AtomicKDX

Post by AtomicKDX »

I am 5'9" w/ 31" inseam, weight is 175 lbs. Not tuned in as the bike is completely stock. When I get home, I'll see what the sag setting is...


>|<>QBB<
scheckaet wrote:How tall are you, and what's your inseam?
Is your suspension setup right FOR YOUR weight and riding style? When was the last service on it?
This could also make a huge difference especially on hill rocky climb. I had my shock redone and revalved by fredette not long ago and was amazed at how much of a difference it made.
I use to never seat on the bike cuz it would beat me up like a ragdoll in a washing machine on a spinnig cycle. Now I can seat when I want and don't get beat up, (i.e bounce alll over the place on the trail)
I'm not very tall (5'7) and can also tip toe my feet on both side but htis was never really an issue to me, always been use to keep both feet on the pegs (learn riding on a trial bike)
good luck
AtomicKDX

Post by AtomicKDX »

Ok, thanks, I'll check and report back my sag setting on the shock. As for the forks, I have OEM forks, but should the springs be changed out based on my weight?



>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:Re: 'I am finding out is that the front end wants to go other places than I am wanting to steer it....'

Note what scheckaet said...'compliance' of the shock has a whole lot to do with where the front goes.

A good number of other things do, too. Fork springs that don't 'fit' you (not the correct rate for your weight/riding style/proficiency), too high a preload, too fast a rebound setting (if you have one..OEM forks don't)...

Scheckaet already asked...but what ARE your shock settings? Have you set your race sag? A properly maintained (serviced at least once in awhile) and setup shock will make a BIG difference in how your front-end acts.

I realize it can be aggravating to ask a simple question and get way too much 'irrelevant' response...but lots of things do figure into the sorts of things you asked about.

Kouba links are not that spendy..look'em up on the web..buy a set..see how you like them. Lowering may well help you 'control' the situation..but it is likely a situation that can be remedied by directly addressing the root of it...not its effect.
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Post by scheckaet »

5'9" w/ 31" inseam, weight is 175 lbs
then lowering the bike shouldn't be your priority IMHO, suspension should.
If I remember correctly, the stock set up is for a 150 lb rider, way too soft.
Check racetech for springs rate, or think about doing a USD conversion. There's a bunch of close to free mods you can do to improve the stock front end. Check your sag, then play with your clickers, you'll get there eventually. :wink:
Also, try to ride with faster riders, you'll learn a lot from them too. Swap bike and get their feedback on your setup (going over the same section at the same speed also help a lot), will make the process easier too.
my .000000002 :wink:
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Post by canyncarvr »

Agreed. 5'9" and 31" is an easy fit for the OEM seat heighth. I'm neither of those...and I don't mean taller!

At 175#, the front forks are considerably underspring for you. A set of .38 or .40s will work much better!

An easy re-do for the OEM fork is to take out a handful of the large shims (22 or 24mm diameter) in the base valve. You can do that with or without an oil change in the forks. Take out (a guess number) four of them, and with a correctly installed and closer to correct spring rate, you will be surprised at how much better the bike handles!

You're familiar with race sag setting? That's the distance of 'drop' in the suspension (rear in this case) from its fully extended extent to where it ends up with you on the bike, with gear, in riding position. 100mm (call it 4 inches) is a good place to start. More will increase the bike stability at speed, slow its handling. Less will, conversely, DEcrease the bike stability at speed, make its handling quicker.

Exaggerate the idea for effect. Think of turning the front wheel of a push scooter (pretty much straight up and down) compared to a chopper with a 12" extended front end.

Effective sag setting is going to take two people..measuring the back end drop while you're sitting on the bike in riding postion (no toes touching, 'natch. Support the bike with a couple of tie straps loosely tied to maybe garage door tracks) is kind'a tough. There are gauges that make it feasible..but all you need is a tape measure.

Measure vertically...say from the axle to a corresponding mark on the fender.


Has the suspension been serviced? The lower shock bearing on the KDX generally needs a good cleaning and re-greasing often. I found mine failed more often than not with a four month maintenance schedule.

That (a stuck suspension bearing) doesn't do anything good for your bike's handling......

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