exhaust valve placement

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AwfulSmokey
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exhaust valve placement

Post by AwfulSmokey »

I've been working on my 99 KX250 and just about got it done. To make a long story short.. I bought a complete gasket kit, so i wanted to make use for as many as possible. I decided to replace the rubber o-rings on the collar that holds the valve in. (part of kips)

I was following the manual on how to take them out. I was wanting to clean them and replace the rubber o-rings for the collars. i didn't realize it was a timing piece. I know they have one lowered spline for the mark. I sat there and theorized how i think it should work. Please feel free to prove me wrong.


The first picture is how i have it set in position when the rod is all the way in.
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The 2nd picture is out.

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I figure it has to be a catch and chute method for the notches.Should the notches be lined up so they dump at the same time?

Here's where i'm at with the bike. I'm on the home stretch!

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1989 KDX 200
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

With the KIPS activated... the valves are all the way open toward the exhaust.
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Post by AwfulSmokey »

>|QBB<[/url]
Indawoods wrote:With the KIPS activated... the valves are all the way open toward the exhaust.
Is "activated" when the actuator rod is in or out?

And by open is it fully open like so?

Image

Image
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Indawoods
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Post by Indawoods »

That is closed!

Open means to allow flow!

Engaged is open... like when the KIPS is not at rest... Full right.
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AwfulSmokey
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Post by AwfulSmokey »

>|<>QBB<
Indawoods wrote:That is closed!

Open means to allow flow!

Engaged is open... like when the KIPS is not at rest... Full right.
When it's open, should the actuator shaft be in or out?
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

I suppose the 250 is similar...

The 'H' model activates when the rod under the LH slotted cover moves CW. That movement moves the subport drum rods IN (toward the piston).

The both activate, engage, move at the same time, to the same position. They are both closed at the same time (and in the relative same position) and open at the same time.

Re: 'Is "activated" when the actuator rod is in or out?'

Watch the terminology. You are referring to the notched rod that turns the subport drums, right?

The 'E' series is similar...only different..a few more pieces involved.
Last edited by canyncarvr on 04:25 pm Mar 15 2008, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by AwfulSmokey »

Is this right? This is with the rod in.

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and this is when the rod is being pulled out and the kips goes down to make the exhaust flow.

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The way it is now. When it's open it seals itself open and the same for being closed. I think i got it right now.
Last edited by AwfulSmokey on 03:00 pm Mar 15 2008, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by AwfulSmokey »

>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:I suppose the 250 is similar...

The 'H' model activates when the rod under the LH slotted cover moves CW. That movement moves the subport drum rods IN (toward the piston).

The both activate, engage, move at the same time, to the same position. They are both closed at the same time (and in the relative same position) and open at the same time.

Re: 'Is "activated" when the actuator rod is in or out?'

Watch the terminology. You are referring to the notched rod that turns the subport drums, right?
I'm referring to the "governor rod" i had to look it up lol
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Post by canyncarvr »

Not sure from the pics..but, as Inda said..with the KIPS 'activated', the subport drums 'open' to give exhaust a path from the cylinder to the exhaust port (the bottom pics)..at rest, they are closed to REDUCE exhaust port area (the upper two pics in the above post)..they RESTRICT flow from the cylinder to the port. On the LH side, the Helmholtz resonator (under the cover that says KIPS) is 'open' (to pressure waves) when the KIPS is at rest...closed, if you will.

Make sure the subport drum edges are positioned 'the same' relative to the cylinder holes/edges. You can be one tooth 'off' on a drum and it will be 'closed' when it should be, and 'open' when it should be..just not 'as much' as it should be in either circumstance.

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Post by AwfulSmokey »

>|<>QBB<
canyncarvr wrote:Not sure from the pics..but, as Inda said..with the KIPS 'activated', the subport drums 'open' to give exhaust a path from the cylinder to the exhaust port (the bottom pics)..at rest, they are closed to REDUCE exhaust port area (the upper two pics in the above post)..they RESTRICT flow from the cylinder to the port. On the LH side, the Helmholtz resonator (under the cover that says KIPS) is 'open' (to pressure waves) when the KIPS is at rest...closed, if you will.

Make sure the subport drum edges are positioned 'the same' relative to the cylinder holes/edges. You can be one tooth 'off' on a drum and it will be 'closed' when it should be, and 'open' when it should be..just not 'as much' as it should be in either circumstance.
that being said, i'm sure i got it right. thanks for the help. I'm putting the carb on now. :supz: just need to put the exhaust, tank, plastic and chech,double check and triple check everything :mrgreen:
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Post by canyncarvr »

Happy is as happy does! :wink:

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Post by AwfulSmokey »

I finally got it done. It was 10:50 pm. i briefly considered the neighbors might not like the noise. Ah well, they will have to live with it. I fills it up with gas and turned the petcock on. It's pouring gas out pretty quickly from a couple of the over flow tubes. Not just a drip either, it's a pour.

I will try and mess with it tomorrow... Check the float?

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Here she is. I didn't get to wash it yet, so there's oil on the plastic.
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AwfulSmokey
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Post by AwfulSmokey »

Well boys, the time has come to see if i was capable of taking on this task. I have never done such an in depth job. I wasn't expecting it to work.

I finished my bike last night. When i turned the gas on, it was leaking like a siv. I put it down and went into the garage bright and early this morn.

I took off the carb, cleaned it and adjusted the float. Put it back together.. no more leaky. So i go to kick start it(had fingers crossed). The kick starter went caput. The gear is stripped beyond use( :thumbsdn: to the guy on ebay i bought it from. I was pissed and then a lightbulb came on :busted:

I took the kick starter off the KDX and put it on. They are different, but the splines are the same. I held my breathe and gave it one kick.

BooooooooooooooooYah!!
Inda my man, you have no idea how much i appreciate your help! You too Can! Without your help, this wouldn't have been possible.


1989 KDX 200
1999 KX 250
AwfulSmokey
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Post by AwfulSmokey »

Here's what i went through to get it there.

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was worth every knuckle bleed i got.. and there was quite a few. The piston rings got me the worst. Worth every moment when it "actually" starts :supz:

I started thinking.. If you went and searched my posts from when i first joined. I didn't know the first thing about bikes. This was back in October when i bought the KDX. Look at me now! :butthead: You guys have been a great help in getting me to accomplish something like this. Thanks!
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Post by Jeb »

Cool!!
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