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Was wondering if anyone elses front wheels are off center? My front wheel is like a quarter inch closer to the brake side of forks. It does have excel wheels so maybe the guy before me put them on and never centered the wheel right.

Euhhh... I know I guy who did install a KX wheel on a KDX hub slightly off-center. Not me off-course

I was able to help this guy re-center the wheel after reading this article:

http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/a ... ?id=303757

Good luck fixing this problem which was obviously caused by another guy...

Could be something as simple as the spacer falling when uninstalling the wheel..... and never putting it back.... which ALMOST happened to me !

Check the spacer for sure. When I bought my 220, I noticed the front brakes making a huge racket. Found out previous owner had lost spacer and tighten everthing down without one.

What 'centers' the wheel is the brake. Should be, anyway. That's why the centering procedure involves spinning the wheel/hitting the brakes with the axle clamps loose.

Of course...a rim laced up by who-knows-whom doesn't have to be centered on the hub.

IS your rim 'plumb' to the hub? Should be able to see that pretty easily. That would be my guess...a bad lace-up job.

There's an art for 'ya. Lacing...........

BTW...I read through that article. It makes some good points (about opposites, mostly)..but it has a problem or two...too.

In regard to 'tightening between motos...'

Start at any point, say the rim lock, and turn each spoke just ï¿S turn; then do the other side of the rim the same amount.

First off...I don't know if 'the other side' means 180º across...or inners vs: outers, lefts vs: rights. Don't know what ï¿S is either. Suffice to say it's 'a little'.

A couple of things to start with...make sure when you move the nipple that the spoke does NOT move with it. If it does, you are simply twisting the spoke..not tightening it. Do that more than a tad..and it's going to break. The chances of the nipples being stuck to the spoke are perfect. I've loosened every spoke on my wheels..taken them plumb out, cleaned them, put them back in using anti-seize, taped the inside of the wheel to help keep water out. THAT lasted for maybe a few rides.

Anyway..if your spokes are NOT moving with the nipple..and the intent is to generally tighten an already true wheel, DO tighten small bits at a time, but just count by fours and go 'around' the wheel four times. Ha! The spoke you START on is '1'...it's not the NEXT spoke that's '1'. THAT (the latter) just gets you going 'round and 'round doing the same spokes four times!!

Put a piece of tape on the spoke you start with and you will know when you're done.

The basics of the article are good..again..the idea of opposites..AND the idea that if you get wonky..loosen everything up and start over. Do NOT try to 'fix' the wonk by working against yourself, tightening probably the wrong side too much.

Back to the thread at hand...N8...can you verify your rims are centered to the hub? A straight-edge against the hub rim will help sort that out. Keep in mind the rotor thickness on the left side....

cc wrote:

There's an art for 'ya. Lacing

Here's a related article from the same author:

http://dirtbike.off-road.com/dirtbike/a ... l%20lacing

Yea I will try the straight edge on them, Yes I do have the spacer in for whoever asked. I think they are laced up off center. Is everyone elses wheels centered perfectly?

Oh one other question, I have had my wheel trued by a local shop before, when I gave him the wheel I didnt give him the spacer or odometer spacer could this have any kind of effect on the truing? Because it may be centered in his truing stand but then when it goes back on the bike with thoses spacers in may make it not centered in the forks.

Ahem, The correct term you are looking for is "Dish".
You are looking at a wheel that is out of dish. My stock front wheel on my 220 came out of dish. Being new, an catching it right away, the nipples were not siezed. Before you jump on the bandwagon of tightening to pull the wheel over, check the tone the spokes make by tapping them with said spoke wrench in the middle of the spoke. This may not be clear, but it should make a bing of medium high pitch. You know, it should resonate for a second. If it goes Bink!, it is tight. If it goes Bong, it's loose.
So starting with the offending side that is dished towards the brakes, check all your spokes for equal pitch when tapped. Get them all in order first. This can go on way too long. If one spoke is really loose, check the opposing pull spokes on either side of it. They may be super tight. If so, loosen them. Remember, that tightening is not always the first way to go.
This is as brief as I can be. Wheel building is an art but not rocket science, duh. If you can change out a top end with out gronking the KIPS Actuator, then you can dish a wheel. Relax, Moto wheels are no where near as sensitive to minor adjustments as Bicycle wheels.

P.S. You can pretty much do this by eye with the wheel on the bike. NO need to pull it off and throw it in a truing stand. Unless you have one.
Start at the spoke after (or before, your choice) the valve stem as your reminder of where you began.
Good luck. A wheel that is under near perfect tension, dished and somewhat true will last longer and spokes will stay put better.

BINK

BONG

TINK

Is there an update on this wheel sitchiation?

Nope I haven't fooled with it, but I will let you know when I do, Im trying to get the rest of the bike together first then I will see.

I say leave it off center and race like NASCAR. it's gotta favor one direction of turn over the other. If it don't like lefties, head on down to Austria and take advantage of their counter revolutionary culture.






BTW, I axially no ware Glock land is.