Getting new bike 220?

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Rick
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Post by Rick »

Gonna share that KX Jim? :wink:
Yes, they really do let me drive the Train!
1991 KDX 250 $Sold but not forgotten....
1996 Suzuki DR 350 $Sold!
2002 Honda CR 250 worth more than my house at this point........ :-)
2004 DR 650se Road Warrior
2002 DL1000 V-STROM
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skipro3
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Post by skipro3 »

YOU DOG!!!!

You are going to love that KK250. I do recommend getting a fly wheel weight for it if you don't plan on an auto clutch any time soon though. The light weight mass will give you a big hit when it comes on the pipe and it will stall easily when lugging it around. The fly wheel weight will help both those things. Also get a 12 tooth counter shaft sprocket. The 2001's were geared a little tall in 1st, unlike the earlier ones, 1998 and earlier.

Is that red bike street licensed?

Anyways, congrats. You have an awesome bike for you, a bike to tweak on for the street, a boss who rides dirt bikes. What else do you need?
Jerry

I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
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Jeb
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Post by Jeb »

>|<>QBB<
Rick wrote:Gonna share that KX Jim? :wink:
If I spring for it, we'll have an xtra ready for deployment !!
"No farmer ever plowed a field by turning it over in his mind" -George E. Woodbury

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AwfulSmokey
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Post by AwfulSmokey »

>|<>QBB<
skipro3 wrote:YOU DOG!!!!

You are going to love that KK250. I do recommend getting a fly wheel weight for it if you don't plan on an auto clutch any time soon though. The light weight mass will give you a big hit when it comes on the pipe and it will stall easily when lugging it around. The fly wheel weight will help both those things. Also get a 12 tooth counter shaft sprocket. The 2001's were geared a little tall in 1st, unlike the earlier ones, 1998 and earlier.

Is that red bike street licensed?

Anyways, congrats. You have an awesome bike for you, a bike to tweak on for the street, a boss who rides dirt bikes. What else do you need?
This is from KTP's website:
2005 KPX Z-150. This KPX Motorcycle represents form and function at their very best. This high quality enduro is comparable to any of the big brand bikes. Solid suspension, easy shifting (4 up, 1 down), and excellent maneuverability make the KPX Z-150 motorcycle the ultimate off (and on) road ride. The KPX Z-150 will pull a 250 pound rider up a 30 degree incline without missing a beat!

Worst case scenerio if i can't get it running is.. i can part it out on ebay. I did a search and there aren't any on there. Should make the parts worth something?

On another note. I only putted on the 250 when looking at it. I think im gonna be nervous taking it out the first time. It is the biggest bike i have ever rode. I can't wait for the adrenaline rush! I'm going to start jetting it tomorrow, then a Bigger tank and a change to the gearing is next.

The very first thing i noticed when sitting on the 250 is man the bike is narrow compared to my 89 200 and then when i sat on the seat and the suspension laughed at me as it didnt even creek, let alone move. Man the suspension is hard.
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Rick
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Post by Rick »

Yep, a totaly different beast. Get use to standing up more. That seat will start to hurt! Just go easy, and the smiles will start showing up!
Yes, they really do let me drive the Train!
1991 KDX 250 $Sold but not forgotten....
1996 Suzuki DR 350 $Sold!
2002 Honda CR 250 worth more than my house at this point........ :-)
2004 DR 650se Road Warrior
2002 DL1000 V-STROM
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scheckaet
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Post by scheckaet »

dang! :supz: NICE!
WOO OOO!
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skipro3
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Post by skipro3 »

Your suspension doesn't move?

That is not good.

By grabbing the built in handle where the rear number/side plate is, you should be able to lift the sag from the suspension about 3 inches. Then you should be able to just rest your hand on the rear seat and bounce the rear suspension up and down a few inches. Standing next to the bike and without holding the front brake, you should be able to bounce the front and rear suspension up and down. Front and rear should travel at the same time. If not, then you have too much preload on the rear shock for little or no rear suspension movement and too much stiction in the fork for the front suspension movement. Get this taken care of before you ride a trail or you WILL find yourself on your butt in a hurry.
Jerry

I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
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Post by AwfulSmokey »

>|<>QBB<
skipro3 wrote:Your suspension doesn't move?

That is not good.

By grabbing the built in handle where the rear number/side plate is, you should be able to lift the sag from the suspension about 3 inches. Then you should be able to just rest your hand on the rear seat and bounce the rear suspension up and down a few inches. Standing next to the bike and without holding the front brake, you should be able to bounce the front and rear suspension up and down. Front and rear should travel at the same time. If not, then you have too much preload on the rear shock for little or no rear suspension movement and too much stiction in the fork for the front suspension movement. Get this taken care of before you ride a trail or you WILL find yourself on your butt in a hurry.
It moves. I was comparing what happens when i sit on the KDX vs KX. The KDX can bounce up and down alot. The KX barely sinks.
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skipro3
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Post by skipro3 »

Sounds like it's time to set the sag. start with about 100mm. Adjust the lock rings on the shock's spring with a drift and hammer. You will really appreciate the suspension.
Jerry

I'd rather be a smartass like carvr, than a dumbass like.... well, you fill in the blank!
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