KDXRIDER.NET

Hey guys-

Have been a lurker on the site for a while now, and I've read all I can about what I'm fixing to ask, just need a *little* more help.

I just recently got my hands on a like new '05 KDX220. I have really been enjoying the bike! It's bone stock. I am wanting to tune the bike as far as jetting goes. I want to enjoy and experience the bike stock for now, I'm definetely still a novice and don't need gobs of power, just want it to run the best it can. I've read Inda's post about tuning, and it all makes sense.

My question is, my bike currently has 145 main and 42 pilot stock jetting. I started to tune the pilot circuit, it took 2 1/2 turns out on the airscrew to get to the sweet spot. The bike revs much smoother now, much more linear from bottom.

Should I go one smaller on the pilot jet to get my airscrew setting back into normal range (1 1/2 turns)? Will this make any improvement in how the bike runs in the idle to 1/4 throttle range VS. what I've already done? Thanks in advance, and love the site!

BTW, I know about the stock piston issue, it is soon to be swapped for a Wiseco.
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Swap the piston first... then we will talk!

There 'ya go, Vince! Hold info hostage until he saves himself.

There are some that say a 220 piston is in danger of fragging only if the bike is 'highly modified'.

They are wrong.

There are some that say the whole idea of the 220 having a problem is a web fairly tale.

They are wrong.

Inda's got a good idea. Get your piston replaced. Until then...
NO SOUP FOR YOU!!


Oh..and welcome to the site!!

While you're waiting for a Wiseco piston kit (see link below for a kit with
the pin bearing) and a top end gasket set (Cometic, MooseRacing are
examples), order main jet sizes 142, 140, and 138 as well
as pilot jet sizes 40 and 38. By the time you've replace your piston, it will be reasonably warm outside (high 40's / low 50's)
start out with the 142 MJ and the 40 PJ. A plug chop (search "wide open plug chop" or "WOT") will
guide you from there. A little bit of a chore fiddling with the jetting and doing the plug chops, but you'll notice the difference.

One place to get your jets (there's others, check your local shop)
http://www.sudco.com

Piston kit w/ pin bearing (an example; if you like your local shop and wanna' support them let them get it for you).
And YES replace the piston, there is clear evidence that the
OEM version could fail and ruin your jetting attempts for a while
and thin your wallet really well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAWASAKI ... 18Q2el1247

Thanks for the replies!

Yeah, the piston thing is gonna happen in the next week or two. Gotta get it before it gets me.

The local shop had a 140 main in stock, and I made good friends with the parts guy, he's got a 40 pilot at the house - I will be getting both tomorrow morning. I'm sure the 40 is the next step for the pilot circuit, is the 140 too small to start with for the main? Does anyone out there run a 138 main? That sounds WAY lean to mean, for any bike! Opinions? And thanks again.
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I have had a 138 in mine, but I typically ride at 9000'-14,000', be careful and work from rich down to lean.

I had a 138 two summers ago (pre-RB carb). In the summer. Unless it's cold outside I doubt you'd seize the motor with a 140 but I'd hold off it is cold outside. The best answer is wait until you have the jets to move into the right jetting from the conservative, i.e. rich side like Colorado suggests.

Got it. BTW, I bit the bullet and bought that piston kit Jeb suggested. That's the best deal I've seen yet. Wanted to ride again this weekend, but I guess I'll tear it down and do it right. I'm impatient as hell, but if I trash the top end, won't be able to ride for a LONG time!

Thanks for the help guys, I may have a question or two about the top end when the parts arrive. Got the service manual, and have read it several times. Is the top end pretty straightforward? Anything in particular to watch out for?
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You absolutely want to fully understand the removal of the KIPS linkage coming from the right side crankcase. There is a 6mm flat milled into the shaft that needs to be used in order to remove the reverse thread nut holding it together. If you twist that without support, you will be crying later.

you will also want a suitable wrench to allow you to torque the cylinder bolts. I use the Motion Pro box end wrench with the 3/8 drive hole milled in the center. I found that a 12mm crows foot would not do the job.

Maybe get some Permatex Copper Coat to seal the head gasket.

Also... be very observant of the circlips! Make damn sure they click in and are seated fully!!!! Double and triple check them. Seat them so that the opening is at either 6 or 12 O' clock position.

More than one cylinder has been trashed by a unseated circlip.

Man, that pic is wicked! Yeah, that stuff is trashed!

I'll be sure to let you know how the new top end goes. I'll post pics of the stock piston when I get it out. I estimate it to have about 150 miles on it, not too much. Know more when I pull the jug.
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As far as the circlips go proper seating is most important, and proper seating will be obvious of you look closely enough. The 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock thing is a little debatable IMHO but initially suggested by a well-known engine builder so it won't hurt to get the gap somewhere around those positions if nothing else than to keep you wondering if you did the right thing.

I took a few snaps of the disassembly while I had mine apart this week to check things out and replace the rings. I post later on. I'm no pro (mechanic nor shutter bug) but maybe they'll help.