REVLOC price reduced! $525 for new autoclutch!

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Mr. Wibbens
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Hey Jerr, I posted my negs, when you gonna come back and tell me how mis informed I am? :wink:
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skipro3
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Post by skipro3 »

>|<>QBB<
Mr. Wibbens wrote:Negatives

+$500 for starters, thats more than half what I paid for my bike!

I don't like the idea of not being able to use the motors compression while going down steep ****

No bump starting ??

stalling on a hill, bike goes into free wheel mode ??

The hand operated rear brake would be neat though

I like to run my bike in a higher gear than normal, and sometimes I need to grab some clutch to loft the front end to get over an obstacle. Not sure how well thats gonna work when there aint no clutch there ??

Then other times, since I'm always lugging it, I need to feather the clutch just to clean things out
1. I can't do anything about the price, but I can tell you that, in my opinion, it is worth the money.

2. Engine compression is just fine. The only time you would loose engine braking is if you lock up the rear tire, (don't worry, the bike won't stall) and the rpm's drop to idle, then the bike will behave as if the clutch were pulled in. To retreive engine braking, just goose the gas above idle a bit and the auto clutch will re-engage to give you engine braking again.

3. That is right. No bump starting. But if you don't stall out the bike in the first place, why would you need to bump start the bike? Perhaps you are concerned if you loose your kick starter, or it breaks. There is an override that causes the clutch to stay engaged. This will cause your bike to behave just like a regular clutched bike with a broken clutch cable; the clutch is always hooking up the motor to the rear tire. It's a fail-safe so you can get back to the staging area if you do loose the kick starter when out on the trail.

4. I don't understand how the bike would stall on a hill. If you get into more hill than your bike can pull, the auto clutch goes to work and you don't stall. If you are going down hill, the engine stays in gear with the rear tire, no stalling there. If you are going down hill at idle and the engine is not engaged via clutch to rear tire and you stall, then you would need to kick-start the bike. That is easy to do while rolling though.

5. Hand operated rear brake is very nice, but does take getting your muscles used to. At first you grab a clutch and skid with every shift. Ha!! But rather quickly, you learn to use the rear brake and it's much finer control. I would say that the hand operated rear brake is really important on steep hills. Here's why: I crash a lot on climbing steep hills. Even if it's because I loose my forward momentum and my toes don't reach the ground and I tip over. If the bike dies, (does that sometimes when I'm upside down and pinned under the bike), then it can be difficult to hold a bike on a steep hill without it being in gear and using the engine/transmission to hold it there. Imagine your bike in neutral on a steep hill. Can you hold the bike there with just the front brake while trying to kick start it? Several times my bike's front brake isn't enough to hold the bike on a steep hill. I can't hold a foot operated rear brake AND kickstart the bike at the same time, so the hand operated rear brake saves me. With the auto clutch bike, I can hold the bike using front and rear brakes, kick start it in gear, and just gas it as I release the brakes; all the while having both feet out to dogpaddle my way up the hill. Pretty cool!!!!

6. Fanning the clutch to POP it so you can loft the front wheel doesn't seem to be a problem for me. I just goose the gas, throw some body english into it, ( butt back and tug the bars) and up the front end comes. Tap the rear brake, even locking the rear brake, and the bike comes back down without any fear of stalling. Auto clutch saves the day.

In fact, the auto clutch saves the day on a regular basis. I'd say that it makes me a better rider, but it would more accurate to say that it saves me from the dumb and unskilled riding technique I use.
Jerry

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Post by canyncarvr »

I haven't heard from them yet.

Guess I'll call them..leave a message...wait for days...call 'em again...leave more messages.........
:neutral:

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Post by rick albert »

Hey guys. i just talked to DAVE at REVLOC last night and he told me that the PRICE IS $725.00 for the KDX autoclutch .....Sooooo who ever got the price of $525.00 got some BUM info......thanks for reading !!!
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Post by kawagumby »

Engine braking by a two-stoke? :?
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Post by canyncarvr »

Somebody's wrong.

Who is it?

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Post by Indawoods »

At $725... I will just buy a spare KDX to use in case the clutch fails. :roll:
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Post by canyncarvr »

Ha!

$525 didn't add up to me..not with 'all new bolt in' stuff. They couldn't MAKE the thing for that price...I don't think.

...doesn't mean I think right.......

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Post by Ondatrail »

>|<>QBB<
kawagumby wrote:Engine braking by a two-stoke? :?
Have you ever ridden down a hill without holding the clutch in? That resistance and high RPM sound is engine braking :wink:
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Post by canyncarvr »

He knows what it is...he's saying it don't amount to diddle on a 2-smoke.

Agreed. It doesn't amount to much when compared to..say..a 4-smoke.

But whatever it is..it's considerably more than nothing at all...which is what you get with an un-hooked autoclutch.

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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

>|<>QBB<
skipro3 wrote:>|<>QBB<]

4. I don't understand how the bike would stall on a hill. If you get into more hill than your bike can pull, the auto clutch goes to work and you don't stall.
I don't understand that either but then again I DID hear it from a credible source I had thought

>|<>QBB<
skipro3 wrote: Plus, if you stall on a hill, there's no engine to rear wheel transmission locking up to hold you. If your front brake isn't enough to hold the hill, you slide. It's hard to start an autoclutch bike on a hill: How do you hold the front brake, hold the rear brake and kickstart? You can't. But if you have a hand operated rear brake, you can hold front and rear brake and still kick the bike over, in gear, and blast out of there.
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Post by skipro3 »

Crap. Can't you read. It says IF you stall. You won't so the rest of the story is all fiction anyways.

Definition of stall: bike falls down and spits rider on his head. Bike at an angle that the engine won't run due to fuel not making it to the motor.

It's Friday and I just drank the last beer in the fridge; a Sam Adams Lite. After the first Sams Lite, after 2 Corona lites, and before the half bottle of wine left over from Christmas. How many does that make? I don't know, I can't count any better than I can define STALL.
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Sam Adams Lite?

It aint really BEER if I can see through it
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Post by firffighter »

I dont know why Dave told you $725 when he specifically told me $525. I called him yesterday and left a message for clarification. I know they have just recently lowered their prices, so maybe there is confusion on their part. They also just updated their website this week. Also, I have a KDX220 and maybe the price is different for a 200. Dave did mention that the 220 did not have a lot of sales, so maybe they are lower in price to get them out the door.
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Post by skipro3 »

The only difference in the 220 from a 200 is the top end. The bottom end and clutch are completely interchangeable.
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Post by firffighter »

I know that, but for some reason Revloc has a different listing for the 200 and 220.
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Post by rick albert »

Maybe its a EAST COAST - WEST COAST thing (ie;) being DAVES more partial to WEST COAST RIDERS..........ha,ha :lol:
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Post by firffighter »

Well we all know West Coast riders are much better riders, so I'm sure Dave does favor us. :wink:
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Post by rick albert »

Hey firffighter, i think you need to pack the family up and come to PA for a week or two and i be more than glad to show you around, theres lots of GOOD riding here .........MY DOOR IS ALWAYS OPEN !!!! :wink:
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Post by firffighter »

Right back at ya Rick. Remember, here in Oreegun we still wear cowboy hats and pack six shooters. :razz:

Just kiddin' . I'll bet our terrain is very similar from what I have seen of the tight Eastern terrain. I would love to ride in that tight rocky stuff you guys have.

Oregon is split into 2 riding regions. West of the Cascade Mts. is steep, wet, rocky, highly technical woods riding. East of the Mts. is desert like. I ride mostly on the West side. A guy needs a very versitile bike to ride all the terrain Oregon has to offer. Unfortunately, we have not been able to ride any of it due to a crazy winter (Global warming has brought us record snow falls).

Anyway, I wonder why Dave has told us two different things? I did leave a message and e-mailed for verification. I was going to put my order in next week, so I hope things did not change.
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