KDXRIDER.NET

I'm sure that it's been asked a million times, but I can't seem to find what I'm looking for by using the Search function. Can someone direct me to a link or topic that explains and possibly shows step by step the procedure to replace fork springs in a KDX200? I've been told it is not difficult, but I have never done it before and want to do it right. Just replacing the stock springs with .40's from Jeff Fredette. Not revalving. Thank you!

Try this,
http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=

Thanks, Between that and the online manual I think I can get it done properly. I'm actually fairly competent mechanically, just haven't worked on bikes that much and want it right!

OK... the main things swapping springs is 1... make sure you retrieve the clips on the bottom of the stock springs so you can transfer them to the new springs.... if the stock springs do not have clips attached... you have to go fishing!


And 2.... twist the uppers into the cap keeping the lowers and the cap stationary.


Those are my tips!

Well, I got the first one right. Clips came out with the springs luckily. Didn't know about number 2. What difference will it make? I haven't put the forks back on the bike yet so I could undo the cap and re-do it if it is important.

BTW...My oil was at 110 stock so I just left it there. With the .40 springs from Fredette I needed a 71mm spacer to give me about 12mm preload. Does that sound about right to anyone that has the same set-up?

One more question. To tighten the nut on the rod to the cap the nut had to travel up the threads about 2-3 mm from the bottom as the cap couldn't go down any further. Is that correct?

Thanks for all the help guys!

The main reason for no.2 is that the springs will twist some in the tubes cause an annoying click as the springs hit the sides of the tubes. It will drive you batty!!!!!

I had about 10mm preload in my stockers and CC uses about 5mm I think. If the suspension isn't reactive enough in the beginning of the travel... you might want to reduce the preload. In the woods...sensitivity is a good thing...

DirtDaddy wrote:One more question. To tighten the nut on the rod to the cap the nut had to travel up the threads about 2-3 mm from the bottom as the cap couldn't go down any further. Is that correct?

Is this different than what it was when you disassembled them? It's hard to picture what you are saying....

DirtDaddy wrote:One more question. To tighten the nut on the rod to the cap the nut had to travel up the threads about 2-3 mm from the bottom as the cap couldn't go down any further. Is that correct?

Is this different than what it was when you disassembled them? It's hard to picture what you are saying....[/quote]

Never did have a way with words! I actually didn't notice how it was upon disassembly. When I screwed the cap onto the rod, both to determine the spacer size I needed and during reassembly, the cap threads bottomed out on the rod. This left a bit of thread between the nut (at the bottom of the threads) and the bottom of the cap. Therefore, to tighten the nut to the bottom of the cap the nut would have to run up the threads about 2-3 mm till it hit the bottom of the cap, then torqued to proper spec, about 11 lbs I believe. Then I screwed the cap into the fork tube. Sound right?

I will go back and take the caps off and try turning the fork tube instead of the cap as you suggested. I assume that the tube must be able to spin independently of the bottom or outside tube enough to thread the cap all the way on?