Pipe question

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ga4boats
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Pipe question

Post by ga4boats »

First question regarding my new purchase - (1999 KDX200) the bike has a stock pipe and a Pro Circuit 304 silencer. I also have the stock silencer. I am more interested in torque versus top end. Any suggestions on a pipe? Also, which silencer would be best with an aftermarket pipe?

Thank you,
Brent.
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jc7622
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Post by jc7622 »

The most popular pipe for the 200 would be the FMF Gnarly 'Woods/Torque' pipe. If your current silencer is mated up to your stock pipe it should also fit this pipe. Most people who have this pipe use the FMF Turbine Core II silencer or possibly the FMF Q (some in less restrictive states might use the Power Core II).

If you want to stay with Pro Circuit, then the Platinum II is supposed to be close to the FMF Gnarly.
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Post by ga4boats »

Thank you,

I will look to find one of those two brands. Is there a best place to buy for price - I see new ones on Ebay for 199 plus 15 shipping.
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jc7622
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Post by jc7622 »

Around $200 is as good as I have seen for a new pipe. Ebay occasionally has used Gnarly pipes being sold. A few weeks ago there were three on there at once. I bought one of them for about $120.

Try different searches - (fmf kdx) (kdx pipe) (kdx gnarly) (kdx gnarley)
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Post by ga4boats »

I am seeing a bunch of archived posts that suggest the Rev pipe is preferred by some over the Torque pipe. Any rule of thumb here for a 99 200 that will be ridden in the woods primarily?
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jc7622
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Post by jc7622 »

The conventional wisdom seems to be the woods/turque pipe for the 200 and the desert/rev pipe for the 220. I haven't even tried out my FMF pipe yet so obviously I am not speaking from experience.
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Post by scheckaet »

the differnce was huge when I got my fmf wood / torque on my 200 :supz:
The hit was fun, I tamed it a bit after rejetting (jetting was stock when I installed it)
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Post by Jeb »

Try this link - great price (I got mine here)

http://www.motorcycleproshop.com/detail ... d=FMF-KG30

What's shown is the rev pipe, for the 200 many get the woods pipe (and they do sell the woods version).

Which pipe? Either is going to be a marked improvement over the stock pipe.

If you like to "ride the pipe" then the rev pipe would suit your tastes better. If you prefer to lug your bike more often the woods might be a better choice.

Another criteria for selection: if you intend on modifying the bike, specifically the RB mods, you're gonna gain some good low end anyway. I believe I remember comments that the rev pipe brings out more of the benefit of the RB mods . . . I think. Anyway, so some searches and keep prying for answers.

I own a 220 which is a bit of a different animal.

Whichever you choose, you will like!
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Post by ga4boats »

Thank you ! Great prices.
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Post by ga4boats »

I have an FMF Rev pipe ordered and on the way. Does this change from a stock pipe require re-jetting? If so, what changes should be made?

Many thanks,
Brent.
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Jeb
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Post by Jeb »

What was the jetting like before? Which bike? Chances are that jetting won't have to change much, maybe not at all. That stated, if you had stock jetting you'll still be rich most likely.

A plug chop will tell the story. Do some searches and read about it (wide open throttle chop).
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Post by motorhed220 »

well my pulg is stock jetting....and my plug burns a nice hazelnut brown...which is perfect...BUT...the tock jettin is naturally rich, and it gets leaned out with my elevation....i live on the niagra escarpement...so a pipe would require me to RICHEN my jettin. Take elevation into account for you to buddy.
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Post by canyncarvr »

Iteration #1,247...

The color of the spark plug insulator, hazelnut, almond, chestnut or walnut..doesn't tell you diddle about jetting being correct or not.

Jeb wrote:A plug chop will tell the story.

Like HERE!

Note this part:
..find a long straight, and install a fresh plug. Start the engine, and do a full-throttle run down the straight, through all gears. As soon as the bike tops out, pull the clutch in, and kill the engine, coasting to a stop. Remove the plug, and look deep down inside the threads, at the base of the insulator.
A correcting edit: As soon as the bike tops out, pull the clutch in,**chop (let go, drop, release) the throttle** and kill the engine,

Also...it doesn't have to happen as soon as the bike tops out. There needs to be a load on the engine..but you can leave it WOT as long as you have room to run and load to give it.

If you think you're lean..do NOT hold it WOT for an extended time.

As little as 10 seconds or so at the top will leave a mark on the plug (follow the link below to see some pics). The longer you run it, the darker the ring gets.

PLUG PICS

BTW..a torque profile (-35..11") pipe will be richer than a rev (-30..14") profile with the same jet set. In other words, a torque takes a leaner jet set than a rev does.

Mine did anyway.........
Last edited by canyncarvr on 04:59 pm Feb 06 2008, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by motorhed220 »

how does it not???

The leaner the jetting, the less oil on the plug, the lighter the colour, the hotter the burn.

Darker plug= more oil, richer mix, Not lean.
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

Sorry. That is simply incorrect. It is a sophorism.
Last edited by canyncarvr on 05:03 pm Feb 06 2008, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by Indawoods »

Rich or lean is Gas... not oil!
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Post by motorhed220 »

gas to oil ratio....sure....

Now instead of being a miserable old coot like the one in your pic, please explain how it is wrong as i was under the impression plug colour= the how lean or rich the bike was running.

Seeing that the only oil goin into the head (unless im wrong) comes from the oil mixed into the gas, i fail to see any distinction between "Rich or lean is gas...not oil!"
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Post by Indawoods »

Rich... mean it has a high concentration of gas to oxygen = large main

Lean means there is less gas / more oxygen to gas = smaller main



Think of it in 4 stroke terms if you can't wrap you brain around it for a 2 stroke.
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Post by canyncarvr »

How it is wrong: As stated, rich/lean is about air/fuel mixture. It is not air/fuel mixture that puts the 'hazelnut' on your plug. That comes from a few other things..additives in the fuel, temperature of the plug to name a couple.

To complicate the issue, the SAME jet set on the same bike on the same track on the same day will show widely different plug 'color'...because of the RIDER!

So....the 'color' of the plug is NOT a referent of carburetor jetting.

...and I really doubt that Joe is a miserable old coot. I'd bet he's a cool dude!

Try this. Assuming you're running a #8 plug that has that nice nutty color you like. Do nothing to your bike but change to a #10 plug, and I will guarantee that your nice color will be gone.

So...your jet set stayed the same...but the color is WAY different. Your bike might even foul that #10 plug!! It will be pretty black and nasty compared to the #8.

To tell the truth, I don't even know there IS a #10. You could try a #9 if you wanted..wouldn't be so dramatic an effect. I know they make 9s.

Looked it up:

BR10ES NGK Spark plug

NGK Spark plug Part number BR10ES


Try one! :wink:
Last edited by canyncarvr on 05:15 pm Feb 06 2008, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by motorhed220 »

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

NOW i gets It!!!!!!
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