What is the best way to assure the rings getting seated during break-in? Did I also read that you are not suppose to use a ball hone on these cylinders? If not (not use the hone that is - not, not read that) then what do you do to the cylinder prior to putting it back together?A good bit of blow-by on the piston...a sign of rings not seated very well. You might consider an alternate break-in procedure... Rings have to be loaded to seat...it takes pressure to do the job. Old hat, but it's combustion pressure getting behind the ring, forcing it against the cylinder that mates the surfaces. Any escaping gas is lost power. If it (mating) doesn't happen right off (break-in) it's not going to happen.
Rings Seating
- jc7622
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Rings Seating
I was reading some older posts about re-doing the top end. I came across a post made by canyncarvr:
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I just use a bit of scotch-brite. No ball hone use. I think the balls will bang into the edges of the ports and goober them (the edges of the ports) up.
I had one that looked terrible; the guy ran without oil and siezed it. I used 600 grit emory cloth to get the worst of it off and put it back together with new rings and piston as a "temporary" ride, almost a year ago. Runs good.
My take on break in is to run a couple or three thermal cycles- run it 10 to 15 minutes and let it cool. When running it I push it pretty hard. It usually won't want to rev out at first and I won't push that, but after a couple of cycles it'll take off and be good to go.
I sure wouldn't let it idle for 10 minutes and then treat it "gently"
There are about as many opinions on this topic as there is what kind of 2-stroke oil to use. The above is my opinion and experience only.
By the way, if you don't use Golden Spectro at 40:1 your motor will blow up
I had one that looked terrible; the guy ran without oil and siezed it. I used 600 grit emory cloth to get the worst of it off and put it back together with new rings and piston as a "temporary" ride, almost a year ago. Runs good.
My take on break in is to run a couple or three thermal cycles- run it 10 to 15 minutes and let it cool. When running it I push it pretty hard. It usually won't want to rev out at first and I won't push that, but after a couple of cycles it'll take off and be good to go.
I sure wouldn't let it idle for 10 minutes and then treat it "gently"
There are about as many opinions on this topic as there is what kind of 2-stroke oil to use. The above is my opinion and experience only.
By the way, if you don't use Golden Spectro at 40:1 your motor will blow up
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'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
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- scheckaet
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- kawagumby
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I break mine in very similarly to what KarlP does and I've never had a problem. The only difference is that in the hilly terrain where I ride, I won't go more than about 5 minutes or so at first - even then the cyl can get pretty warm. I spit on the cyl to check how hot it gets. I try not to let it get hot enough to sizzle (even through the water jacket). After about 20-30 minutes worth of cycles it stays cooler. No blowby or galling issues ever.
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- canyncarvr
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I think that canyincarver guy had it right. He's one fart smeller, he is.What is the best way to assure the rings getting seated during break-in?
Of course, it wasn't HIS idea...but I think had a link to a write-up about the 'fast' break-in process where you got the quote from.
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..and anyone that's anyone knows Golden Scrotum oil sucketh most large.
btw...EG has said he uses a ball hone. What's important is the ball hone diameter. The hone to NOT use is your one-each 3-bar hone. Well...unless the stones are about 8" long. That would be good.
Dress the port edges by hand.
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