fork cap size

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THill
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fork cap size

Post by THill »

Can someone tell me what mm size is the fork caps are on a 220 ?
Thanks...
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

A clarification, pour your flavor?

What year 220?

..and you're referring to the hex size...the overall diameter..?? ..what exactly?


And howcome no one answeared this already....??

BTW...if you're looking to loosen them..loosen the top clamp pinch bolts first.

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Post by THill »

Sorry ...
It's a 05 model..
The caps at the top of the forks , going to replace my springs
with some from FRP..
I got metric sockets and wrenchs up close to that size but not
big enough....
Did you other guys just us a adj. wrench ?
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Post by canyncarvr »

Adjustable works fine..a socket is better due to the tank being close by. Also, when re-installing it's nice to be able to apply force directly 'down' as opposed to wrenching off to the side.

You got back quicker than I thought you might. I don't recall what the size is..planned on measuring it when I got home (west coast time). Seems like something like 1 1/4 works. The largest metric socket I have is around 26mm..not big enough (if the 1 1/4 is right).

If it's an '05 and you haven't replaced the fork oil..now's a good time! The stuff the bike comes with is junk.

There's always sumthin' needs doin'...and usually someone telling you to do it, 'eh? :wink:

If someone doesn't post a knowledgeable answer, I'll get back here later today.


If this is a gnu-2-ewe procedure..take a look at THIS (click here)

..might be helpful....the 'speshul tool' part and all.


Oh...don't use the OEM preload spacers. They're stupid. No reason you need (or want) any more than 10mm preload.

Have fun!!

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Post by Ondatrail »

I'm pretty sure it's a 29mm but I didn't want to take my handlebars off in my cold shed to be absolutely sure :mrgreen: . A socket sure made it easier but unless you already have it it's not worth the $ when an adjustable wrench can work too.
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Post by THill »

The largest wrench i've got is a 27, to small..
Got some friends that have a large set of metric's, just need to kinda get in the ballpark as to what size..Like canyancarvr i'd rather be pushing down to get them loose instead pulling on the sides with a adj. wrench..

Fork oil was also going to be changed. Even tho this bike may have about 6 tanks of fuel run threw it i was going to do it while i was in the forks,
going back with about the same weight oil...

Stock the forks feel good but just to soft on hard impact stuff even with me at around 165 to 170 lbs..Started to order the 40kg springs but the guys at FRP talked me into the 38's..not going to be mx her...

Matt article had some good tips about his fork spring change..
Anymore info about the stock preloaders or FRP fancy pvc spacers is welcomed, want to try and get it right the first time....

Thanks for the help and info.....
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Post by canyncarvr »

I measured my KDX forks...30mm...1.180" 1 3/16 will do..a tad on the loose side so a 6pt will work better than a 12pt.

The PVC you want to use is schedule40..the thicker stuff. Again...a preload of 10mm (not a spacer of 10mm) will work fine.

You know how to figure that spacer length?

Cut the pipe on a miter saw..or by hand. Square and deburr the edges with a file.

FRP has always been on the lower side of spring rates..but I recall him thinking the OEM spacers were fine, too. That's too low a spring with too much compression for me. In years gone by I remember fighting fork problems that ended up being all related to too much preload. A change at that time (with that fork setup) from 12mm to 5mm preload made all the difference in the world. One'a those, 'IT'S A NEW BIKE!' epiphanies.

An oil level of 100mm is considered 'standard'. I liked 110-115mm better.

Get yourself some bleeders. MotionPro makes them. They simply screw into the fork caps. Considerable pressure builds up in the OEM forks..and bleeding that pressure off a few times during a ride (pushing a button) will make a huge difference in the way your bike handles. Adding bleeders was yet another of those 'NEW BIKE!' moments. A very worthwhile upgrade.

There've been quite a few of those......... :wink:

Oh...Matt Disher is still around! Thanks Matt!

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Post by Rick »

If you cant find a 30mm, get the 1 3/16, and put a rag or somthing over the nut, if its too loose. Works almost every time! :wink:
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Post by THill »

How do you measure the pvc for 10mm preload ?
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Post by canyncarvr »

Understanding the intent of the spacer makes the measurement simple.

As the word implies, 'preload' is the amount the spring is squeezed in the fork before there is any fork movement...with the fork fully extended. You check for your preload requirement before you put the oil in.

Basically:
☻Place the spring in the fork (make sure the OEM spring clip is firmly clipped to the bottom of the spring).

☻Thread the cap fully onto the rod.

☻With the fork fully extended (not the TUBES fully extended..the inner tube will drop, extend the rod by holding the cap), measure the distance from the top of the spring to the bottom of the cap.

What's left out of that distance is the two formed washers you took out. Measure the flange thickness of the two and you'll find them to be 3mm.


For example: Consider the distance you measured above to be 35mm. Subtract the washer thickness (3mm) to get 32mm (what you'll have with the washers installed). So...if the space you have is 32mm, to preload the spring 10mm you would need a 42mm piece of PVC.

☻Put it all together with your spacers..measuring each fork individually and cutting a spacer to suit. The spacers may not be exactly the same size.

A couple of notes: On disassembly, when you have wrenches on the rod jam nut and the cap, a fair amount of force will be required to UNjam the rod nut. Once that happens and you begin turning the cap..you are NOT unthreading the cap (UP), but threading the jam nut DOWN. When that nut reaches the end of the rod threads you will feel the force required to UNstick the cap from the rod. THEN the cap threads off.

The opposite, 'natch, when you put it all back together.

The point being there are two 'sticking' points to getting the cap off..and putting it back on.

Pay attention to the specified torque values if you don't have a 'trained' (experienced) torque arm.

Keep in mind when you thread the cap back into the tube that the cap is very soft....the tube ain't...and the threads are FINE.

Once the cap is started into the tube, HOLD the cap and turn the TUBE to complete the assembly. Do NOT hold the tube and turn the cap. The latter will get you some irritating clicking/rubbing/klacking noise out of the fork leg during compression.


How's that?

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Post by THill »

OK...hope to give it a try this weekend...
Thanks for all the info...
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Post by THill »

Well thanks for all the info guys..
Got the springs replaced with new oil and the forks feel alot better with just the little bit of riding i got to do today...
Hopefully i'll give it a better work out soon....
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