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Do you guys use the special tool for getting the steering stem off, or do you just go at it with a punch? I plan on doing my bearing service when I'm changing my fork springs, and would like to avoid buying that tool if possible.

Thanks,

A punch?

What ever for?

If you are trying to just get the stem out of the steering head... just gently tap it with a rubber mallet or what I do is just grab the bottom clamp and work it back and forth pulling down.... it should just drop out.

Are you replacing the bearings or just servicing them? You don't need to remove the stem except from the steering head. If you are replacing the bearings then the bottom one is the only one that is pressed on... and you will ruin it trying to get it off... just a fact. Just split it with a chisel and peel it off, to put a new one on just heat up the bearing in the oven and stick your stem (attached) to the bottom clamp in the freezer for a couple of hours... pull them out using gloves, hurry out to the garage and drop the bearing on the stem... I used a piece of top fence post to drop over the bearing and used a dead blow hammer to gently coax the bearing down to seat it.

To service the bearings... usually all that's needed is clean the bearings well with kerosene and work a good amount of grease into them making sure they move freely without any binding.

To drop the steering stem just remove the upper triple tree clamp nut and remove it and the belvel washer, remove the upper triple tree, remove the bearing adjustment nut and the stem will drop out of the bike's neck.

Can I assume you are referring to getting the bottom bearing off the stem?

That is generally done by pressing the stem out of the bottom clamp which leaves the bearing sitting there. You likely do not have the press required (20-30,000 pounds) to do that.

Do NOT use the 'beat on it' method to 'press' the stem out of the bottom clamp!

Some have had luck using a punch or screwdriver (not your good one!) to push-tap-beat it off. Generally, that will only get you a bottom bearing in pieces all over the place...with the inner race still stuck to the stem.

I used an air cut-off tool. Be vewwy vewwy carfuul if that's your choice of tool. I thought I could easily see the difference in metals when I got past the inner race compared to the stem. Not so. I ended up with a nick in the stem because I went too deep. No big deal...didn't hurt anything, but more care on my part would have been a good thing.

To put your new bearing back on...put the stem/clamp in your deep freeze overnight. Use a piece of steel pipe (1 1/8" I think it is) a bit longer than the stem that is threaded on one end for a cap. Put the cap on to give you something to pound on that won't chip off bits of metal. Place the new freshly cleaned and greased bearing over the stem...install your bearing 'tool'...whack it with a 2 1/2# sledge.

Done.

Oh...don't be holding the stem/clamp assembly on your lap when the 'installation' is done.

One more thing...when installing the new race in the bottom of the neck, using a bit-o-2x4 will work fine for getting the race flush with the frame tube. To recess the race up INside the tube where it needs to be, use the OLD race.

Colorado Mike wrote:Do you guys use the special tool for getting the steering stem off, or do you just go at it with a punch? I plan on doing my bearing service when I'm changing my fork springs, and would like to avoid buying that tool if possible.

Thanks,

I'm not sure of the actual torque setting is for that but it isn't much more than finger tight. That is a bearing you are working against with that nut, so be sure to seat it like the manual says. Don't have a manual? Get one ASAP!

Sheesh...he's talking about loosening the castle nut!! THAT didn't occur to me until I read Ski's post.

Sorry 'bout that.

Sure. A punch or old screwdriver will work fine. As Ski says, the torque isn't much. It's not like whanging on the shock lock/positioning ring(s).

I did look for a socket so I could use my torque wrench on reassy. Never did find one. Didn't bother with the spring guage tool either..cuz I didn't have a spanner wrench that fit it neither.

The tightening procedure is noted in the service manual. It's the same as any other tapered roller bearing assy. You tighten to 'x' to seat, release and retighten to 'snug'. 'X' isn't a whole lot. 15-20lbs is more than adequate. Rotate the stem assy back and forth during the seating procedure. Hold the assy when you do the release part. 'Snug' is a good wrench with your fingers.

I think what CC is calling the castle nut I call the bearing adjustment nut and I seem to recall the aproximate final torque value to be in the neighborhood of 43 inch lbs or 3.5 ft. lbs. The upper triple tree nut should be somewhere around 20 ft. lbs as I recall. I just trying to clarify for COMike.

cas·tel·lat·ed
Means the nut is furnished with turrets. A castellated nut, not a castle nut.

On buykawasaki.com, it has this description: NUT,25MM,T=12
I think T=12 refers to a torque of 12 inch pounds.

(I'm bored 'cause it be snowin' 4 days straight now and my work truck is in the shop getting a new fuel pump, water pump and some electrical drain birddogged down. But I'm up a couple hunderd at the on-line poker site!)

Yeah...it's not a castle nut. A castle nut is what you have on the rear axle. The thing on the stem is a spanner nut.

I used the term loosely to differentiate between the one under the top clamp from the one on top of the top clamp.

....loosely enough to be wrong. How 'bout that!?

The torque numbers for the spanner won't matter in most cases as most folks don't have the ability to measure it with that type of fastener. Still, anyone that wrenches should know 'about' what 20ft/lbs. is...as opposed to 3.5ft/lbs., whether a torque measuring tool is available or not.

I know the term 'castellated' applies....but a search for the term 'castle nut' got me over 6000 hits on google, so I figgered that was good enough.

..and I think the 'T' part refers to thread count...not torque. The description is of the fastener having nothing to do with its application.

Sorry for leaving you all in the dark as to what I was talking about. I was away,busy with something critical to the success of the corporation. Yeah I was just talking about the castle- castellated---er constipated ... uh,, chunky nut. Thanks, I'll just use my caveman tools..

My guess on what T=12 stood for. I was extrapolating from the references in the manual where diagrams indicate torque requirements with a T=A or T=B, then a chart where A or B is defined. (lest ways, thats what I recall. I don't have my manual with me right now)

My old autoshop teacher insisted on the term castellated and not castle. A frustrated english teacher, no doubt. The things we remember from high school after 32 years!

The nut on top of the clamp is defined on buykawasaki as: NUT,STEERING STEM,22MM

I don't think there is another nut on the buykawasaki site that has this T= thing associated with it.

I know!! The 'T' stands for 'thing'!

I'd bet the T-12 means there are 12 spanner notches on the nut.

Yeah!! Notch 'things'!!

Nice save there Brad

TEETH! T=TEETH!!!!!

When I took mine apart... all I used was a big 'ol pair of Channel Locks... no slipping and no marring.

Just use the caveman tools. Get it finger tight on reassembly. You should be able to tell a difference in the too loose / too tight adjustmets.

I have the spanner wrench mentioned in the manual. It is nice, but not really necessary.

It's finger tight on re-tighten after the initial seating and then backing off of the nut. It's not finger tight the first time, only time..you're done time.

I'll just about guarantee that if you put a couple of new bearings (or newly serviced old bearings) together with only a 'finger tight' approach..you will end up with it too loose after a ride.

You can check your manual for verification of the install process.

I have a manual, which is what got me thinking I need the special tool in the first place. I'll just follow it without the tool.

If you can get the front end up and let it swing from side to side, that will give you a great idea of how tight is too tight and how loose is too loose. I have found that I usually set it so it will continue on to the left-right stop in a fluid motion. This is with a little tap to one side. If it stops mid-travel, then that means too tight. If it has too much slack in the bearing, then that is too loose.