Hinged or Quick release skid plates?

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johnkdx220
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Hinged or Quick release skid plates?

Post by johnkdx220 »

Well... with more than 3 feet of snow around here, its time to find another little kdx projet (or move down south!!!):

I wish to find a way to set-up a quick release for my skid plate (Devol). It is currently mounted with 2 bolts in the front, 1 in the back.

Anyone out there who did a similar modification and willing to share ideas? I thought of welding a heavy duty hinge on the back side of the frame and, somehow, puting quick release pins in the front. That way, I could simply tilt the skid plat downward whenever I wash the bike. With the current set-up, the dirt and clay are trapped and its hard to remove, even with the pressure washer.

Pictures would be nice.

PS1: I don't want to put mousse under the engine. Tried it, don't like it.
PS2: Engine head and carb sent RB :grin: :grin: :grin:

Thanks.
KDX220 (RB'd, EFM Autoclutch, FMF Rev, KX front end... Crash proofed and crash tested tOO often !)
IdahoCharley
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Post by IdahoCharley »

I've never done it but I always thought the ideal skid plate would have the mounting hardward welded to the bike frame and you would remove the plate by unscrewing three or four countersunk bolts. Biggest problem in my experience is getting the mounts into the correct location and then carefully getting the fasteners started in the mounting holes.

Since I'am basically lazy - if I was taken off my skid plates all the time - likely would just mount the plate then carefully tack weld the mounts to the frame and call it good. Unscrew the countersunk bolts dropping the plate - reverse process to remount: major associated hassle gone because the mounts stay in the correct location and orientation.
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Rick
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Post by Rick »

Hmm... Maybe make some sort of bracket on the bike and the guard, so the guard has to slide into a slot or something in the back. Then, find some clip pins, or pins that have those self locking things on them for the front. Either small enough for the existing holes, or drill out the stock threads so bigger ones will fit. I dont know. I'll think about it. How about Zip-Ties?
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IdahoCharley
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Post by IdahoCharley »

I think your on the right track except for the zip-ties!

It would be easy enough to make brackets with self-locking pins if you were welling to drill through the frame tubes. I would not want to drill the frame tubes. :oops:

The addition of a fixed plate or slot on the rear of the skid plate seems doable - at least while I'am on the computer and the bikes are in the shed. :grin: Maybe a set of brackets mounted on the front of the skid plate - which grab/cradle the front tubes with quick disconnect brackets encircling the back half of the frame tubes. Once again in the house on the computer and have forgotten how much clearance or access may be availble for this. :lol:
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Post by Rick »

No Zip-ties? Geesh. How about duct tape? Bungee cords?
Yes, they really do let me drive the Train!
1991 KDX 250 $Sold but not forgotten....
1996 Suzuki DR 350 $Sold!
2002 Honda CR 250 worth more than my house at this point........ :-)
2004 DR 650se Road Warrior
2002 DL1000 V-STROM
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Rick
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Post by Rick »

Zip ties are stronger than u think................
Yes, they really do let me drive the Train!
1991 KDX 250 $Sold but not forgotten....
1996 Suzuki DR 350 $Sold!
2002 Honda CR 250 worth more than my house at this point........ :-)
2004 DR 650se Road Warrior
2002 DL1000 V-STROM
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Rick
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Post by Rick »

I got it! You said something about welding a hinge on the back? Well, what if you did that, but replaced the pin with a longer one that you could put a cotter key or ring clip in? Then, for the front. Since u said welding, weld a couple of race car hood pins to the frame. Drill holes in the guard to match up with the pins. Pin it! You could swing it down to clean it, or pull the rear pin also, and totaly remove it!
Yes, they really do let me drive the Train!
1991 KDX 250 $Sold but not forgotten....
1996 Suzuki DR 350 $Sold!
2002 Honda CR 250 worth more than my house at this point........ :-)
2004 DR 650se Road Warrior
2002 DL1000 V-STROM
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Rick
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Post by Rick »

oh crap. then the excess pins would be hanging down................Unless, they are on the side...
Yes, they really do let me drive the Train!
1991 KDX 250 $Sold but not forgotten....
1996 Suzuki DR 350 $Sold!
2002 Honda CR 250 worth more than my house at this point........ :-)
2004 DR 650se Road Warrior
2002 DL1000 V-STROM
KarlP
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Post by KarlP »

I hear a skid plate rattling in the future............ :lol:

If it ain't bolted on tight, it's not bolted on tight

How about hinge in the front or rear, some kind of cam lock at the other end.

I'd put the hinge at the front. Ever have a driveshaft bust at the front and hit the ground?
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johnkdx220
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Post by johnkdx220 »

Zip ties... Nahhh. Too easy. Not strong enough.


How about this? Installing 2 or 3 heavy duty stainless steel pipe clamps on the rear cross frame and HD exhaust clamps in the front. To eliminate vibration, I would install fuel line type ruber material around the subframe. The front could be held in place with HD exhaust springs. Perhaps the pipe clamps in the back over rubber material would allow a slight rotation movement dowward when the exhaust springs are unhooked.

This is a good brainstorming ... but we are not there yet.
KDX220 (RB'd, EFM Autoclutch, FMF Rev, KX front end... Crash proofed and crash tested tOO often !)
KarlP
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Post by KarlP »

I kind of like the hinge in front and a clamp in the rear. The clamp in the rear can be made from a shaft the runs across a bit forward and below the swingarm pivot. The handle would be in that space below the clutch cover but inward from the brake lever.
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'99 CR/KDX Hybrid with that RB stuff done to it
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Post by Rick »

Uh, the Zip-ties was a joke.........and the Duct Tape, Bungees.........
Yes, they really do let me drive the Train!
1991 KDX 250 $Sold but not forgotten....
1996 Suzuki DR 350 $Sold!
2002 Honda CR 250 worth more than my house at this point........ :-)
2004 DR 650se Road Warrior
2002 DL1000 V-STROM
johnkdx220
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Post by johnkdx220 »

How about going back to basics and finding a way that dirt can escape faster without having to weld or bolt any quick release gizmos...

Here is an idea: create a 1/8'' gap between the frame and skid plate by adding rubber mounted pieces. This Devol plate used to be snug against the frame, thus trapping all the dirt between the side and rear frame tubes .

I know, I know... less ground clearance!

The zip ties aren't really necessary...

Image
KDX220 (RB'd, EFM Autoclutch, FMF Rev, KX front end... Crash proofed and crash tested tOO often !)
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