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Sloppy linkage bearings...

Posted: 08:45 am Dec 14 2007
by KarlP
.....on the Hybrid.

I've got a '99 CR250 frame with a KDX 220 motor in it.

Really cool ride and all that, I'm still working on some suspension issues.

I've got slop in two places in the rear suspension linkage: lower shock bearing, and the forward pull bar pivot.

All bearings are new. I bought a complete set from All Balls or Pivot Works or somebody. I installed them very carefully and all went well with the installation. This was just a couple of months ago, and there was a bit of slop then, I guess just as much now. It comes up as an issue because as the suspension tuning is progressing this is becoming a factor. The slop translates into about 3/16" of free play at the wheel axle.

I've pulled the offending joints apart and as far as I can tell the play is between the inner race and the needles; the bearings are just that way.

My question is has anybody else experienced this with non-OEM replacement bearings?

My plan is to buy OEM replacements for those two joints.

Thanks for any experience and help

Posted: 08:54 am Dec 14 2007
by skipro3
No experience, but I'm wondering if you could run a sleeve over the pivoting bolt involved? If that was a larger diameter, would that take care of the slop?

Posted: 10:41 am Dec 14 2007
by GS
No experience here either, except that I usually buy bearings by number.

Well, most of the time, some Kawa wheel bearings (KX100, I think) were only found at the Kawa dealer.

Using bearing part numbers, contact a bearing supplier and find out about what else is available and of better quality?

I think that you can often get better quality for less $....?

Anybody with more experience??

Posted: 12:21 pm Dec 14 2007
by KarlP
I appreciate the replies.

The whole set was pretty low dollar, in my opinion. You get what you pay for, huh?

The sloppiness does not seem to be coming between the bolt and the inner sleeve, all that clamps together rigidly. It seems like it can only be between the sleeve and the needles.


Hmmmm......
"Pivot works, All Balls and most others I've seen use lower grade bearings than factory stuff."

Tuition payment?

Posted: 12:47 pm Dec 14 2007
by GS
I would not assume that factory stuff is better quality. Of course ANY sloppiness in a bearing would produce some movement at the wheel.

Bearings are pretty CHEAP to buy, just need to get the *right* ones from the right source!

Posted: 03:34 pm Dec 14 2007
by IdahoCharley
>|<>QBB<
GS wrote:I would not assume that factory stuff is better quality. Of course ANY sloppiness in a bearing would produce some movement at the wheel.

Bearings are pretty CHEAP to buy, just need to get the *right* ones from the right source!
Good Advice IMO. :wink: Sounds like the wrong needle bearings to me - if I understand your description correctly. Ought to be able to have a bearing house fix you right up. Take the applicable linkage joint into the bearing house and they will measure the internal diameter of the linkage housing and measure the outer diameter of the sleeve and measure the distance available between seals and come up with a caged roller needle bearing for you.

Posted: 04:19 pm Dec 14 2007
by KarlP
Thanks guys.
I think I'll try the OEM route for now.

Posted: 07:30 pm Dec 14 2007
by GS
From what I've heard, the OEM aren't very good either ( although not through direct/PERSONAL experience.)

FWIW: Where do you think the OEMs get their bearings?

Good luck and please let us know how this works out, if you don't mind!

Posted: 10:44 am Dec 18 2007
by TRXCR
How did you come up with that engine/frame combo? i have a '99 cr250 and love the motor. What have you done to the suspension? are you trying to make it more trail friendly?

Posted: 09:16 am Dec 19 2007
by KarlP
I happened to get a complete '99 CR frame through some horse trading.
I had a spare KDX220 motor.

Too much free time.

We ride a lot of tight ST and all the local Enduros have the points taking sections in the really tight trails.

I don't want to make the CR suspension TOO trail friendly, or I might as well ride the KDX. I gave the forks to a local guy for rework. They turned out perfect for now. resprung and revalve, low speed compression damping controlled in the left leg and high speed in the right, I understand. The forks work really well so far.
The shock has to go back. It doesn't work well, yet. One issue was slop in the linkage; I can't really tune the shock untill that is fixed.

Any pointers on the CR suspension?

Posted: 10:28 am Dec 19 2007
by TRXCR
I haven't did anything to the CR other than soften up the dampening, my son rides it most of the time. When I hop on it after riding the KDX it seems harsh.

Posted: 11:49 am Dec 19 2007
by KarlP
Harsh it is.

The shock currently seems to have a real spike in compression dampening starting at about 1/2 stroke. This seems to compounded by the fact that I can't get any rebound dampening until the clicker is about two clicks from full in, then it is maybe too much. Add a bit of bearing sloppiness and the rear will rattle the lenses out of my goggles at speed over roots and braking bumps.

The shock is going back after I fix the bearings and play with the settings some more

Posted: 08:22 am Jan 03 2008
by KarlP
What I found was that the inner races for both the lower shock bearing and the forward pivot of the pull rods was undersized. I replaced the inner races with OEM and the slop is no more.
The aftermarket races measured about .004" smaller than the OEM.