Darn Spokes!

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IdahoCharley
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Post by IdahoCharley »

For those with spoke nipple rusting/binding issues. When ever I replace a rim or spokes I put a little antisieze or water proof grease in the nipples. Seems that you can then adjust the spoke tension for 2-3 years without problems. If you do use grease or antisieze you do need to reduce the in. lb. torque settings. I use 45-50 in. Lbs. for dry and 35-40 in. Lbs for lubed spokes.

EDIT - Service manual for the kdx calls out a 13-18 in. lb tightness for the spoke nipples. Checking a new KDX bike rear wheel indicates that this value (13-18) is what is applied at the assembly plant.

For serious wobbles in wheel - I found it easiest for me to reduce spoke tension on all the spokes and then start from scratch bring the spoke tension up to maybe 10 in. Lbs or so making sure you have the correct hub offset THEN adjusting the spoke tension to remove the wobble. If it takes more than about 15 inch lbs force difference in relative spoke tension to pull the wheel straight the rim is tweaked bad. Many times you can restraighten the rim out by loosening up the spokes and manually tweaking the rim with larger wood blocks and a BFH. :cool:
Last edited by IdahoCharley on 06:32 pm Mar 20 2005, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by KDXer »

UMMMM A friend of a friend of mine just went around his 03 KX 250 rim and tightened all the spokes by going all the way around one side and then he turned it over and did the other side....

Did he more than likely throw the wheel out of balance ???

I knew I,,, oops I mean HE knew HE should have researched it but he didn't and is probably going to pay for it now :oops:

HELP....
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Post by KDXGarage »

Good advice Idaho Charley, thanks!

KDee, it depends on how much he tightened them. I hope he didn't go for the gusto in one fell swoop. If he tightened one side too much, it would pull it all over to that side.
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Post by Indawoods »

Thanks Charley and welcome to the forums!

This issue won't be an issue when I get new Excel rims next season and I will follow the advice on the anti-seize.
I will get new spokes and new rims to reverse the neglect of the past owner. :razz:
I think this issue is overlooked by many and only becomes an issue when you notice your spokes are loose.
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Post by Mr. Wibbens »

Back at that "other" website, there was a great thread on on respoking a wheel, you might want to look it up
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IdahoCharley
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Post by IdahoCharley »

Thanks Indawoods - Nice site BTW. KDX Quebec told me about it!!

Sure - First post and I'll have to put a disclaimer of sorts on it BECAUSE - I did take a look in the KDX OEM service manual on spoke tightness. It states 13-18 inch Lbs. I don't know if this is a misprint or whether there is some reason the KDX rims cannot take a more 'normal' spoke tightness. This is way less than what I've been using over the years. Buchann (sp?) spokes are what I've used to rebuild dirt bike wheels and they are the ones who recommended a 45-50 inch Lb (dry) tightness. The orange, red, blue, and yellow bikes all work with this 45-50 value from my experience. Also the spokes on Harley's are suppose to be tightned up to 55 -60 in. lbs..

KAYDEEEXER- easy to tighten spokes and keep things in check in general spoke tightning maintenance. Start at the valve stem area and tighten the first spoke no more than a quarter turn: then count three additional spokes and tighten the third one the same amount as the first one: then starting at the next spoke count three more tightening the third spoke - etc. After you have come to the valve stem the third time you should have tightened all the spokes the same amount. Repeat as necessary. Generally speaking I've read that you are better off with the spokes being a little bit on the low side of tightness verses the upper end of tightness on a dirt bike. i.e. the wheel is stronger and able to take more abuse with spokes tightned in the neighborhood of 45 in. Lbs. verses 60 in. Lbs. although I really don't know why. :roll: Someone who more famaliar with stress analysis can answer the reason why.
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Post by Indawoods »

Charley... It may be due to the purpose of the bike. A motocross type bike doesn't take much side or off center impact compared to a KDX in it's given environment. I can see where a KDX's rims would have to be more forgiving (flex). Low speed hits can be alot more damaging than high speed hits considering duration of the flexing.
I really don't know and just thinking out loud. Anyone have any insight to this?
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Post by IdahoCharley »

Indawoods - you may be correct but 13-18 in. lbs is not very tight.

I just put my little inch lb wrench on four of the boy's KDX 200 spokes and ALL OF THEM MOVED in the neighborhood of 15 in. lbs. So I tried it on my KTM and none moved even at 60 in. lbs. FWIW the KDX 200 is new with about 12 miles on it and has not even been washed yet. The KTM is a '00 year model which I bought used in late 03 and rode this last summer without any wheel issues so I haven't touched the spokes.

Just grabbing the spokes near where they cross and applying side pressure to them caused the KDX spokes to deflect while the EXC spokes are much more taunt. I'm now under the assumption that the service manual is correct for the KDX spokes as set-up by the factory. :supz: :wink: Live and learn something everyday!!
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Post by canyncarvr »

re: spokes spinning

Vise grips on the spoke, close to the nipple..and use a Rowe spoke wrench. It's at least twice as thick as the 6mm wrench you have...more like 3X thick.

Spokes are made of tough stuff. You can get a real good bite (about as much as you can clamp with the vise-grip) and STILL spin the spoke in the plier if the nipple is stuck good. When it slips in the plier, it doesn't leave a mark on the spoke!

It took me several days of cycling heat (propane torch) and WD-40 in the nipple before I got all of mine loose. One of 'em never DID loosen up. Broke that one.

If they're stuck, simply getting them UNstuck isn't doing much. Take the nipple completely off, clean the threads of the spoke with a wire brush, put it back together with never-seize.

I torqued all mine to spec. Got an idea of what sort of 'ting' that made. With the wheel on the bike (that means tire on the wheel, natch) I go by sound.

Good luck on truing a wheel. The process can give you a headache.

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