Posted: 10:41 am Nov 02 2007
'bout an hour and a half.... pretty simple.
for reals? Wow. Terrific!
Now the manual (online one through this site) says the cylinder can't be honed, should i do it anyways or just skip this step?
Page 2 of 2
Posted: 11:05 am Nov 02 2007
Posted: 11:32 am Nov 02 2007
Inda:
Well here goes: 'The plating is thin'.....just as it's supposed to be, fercrisakes. Mine was in pretty good shape.....but not perfect.
KDXQuebec:
can't say I agree with that particular theory. Piston I took out was crap casting-wise. Looked so bad, that it looked as if I made it at home, while drinking!
Cleoent:
If you can do that re and re, PROPERLY, in 1.5 hours ....WOW!....Why? cause might as well clean up the KIPS while you're in there, and do a general dusting of everything else.
DON'T take the KIPS actuating shaft off the cylinder until you have read all the 'gotchas' about supporting the shaft and the fact that the threading is reversed, etc.
Lots of info hereabouts in that regard!
Honing: Gentle Scotchbrite pad seems to be the recommended procedure. That coating/plating is thin, but hard. However it does need a little de-glazing to get the rings to seat.
There I am all wordy AGAIN.
Sorry!
Well here goes: 'The plating is thin'.....just as it's supposed to be, fercrisakes. Mine was in pretty good shape.....but not perfect.
KDXQuebec:
can't say I agree with that particular theory. Piston I took out was crap casting-wise. Looked so bad, that it looked as if I made it at home, while drinking!
Cleoent:
If you can do that re and re, PROPERLY, in 1.5 hours ....WOW!....Why? cause might as well clean up the KIPS while you're in there, and do a general dusting of everything else.
DON'T take the KIPS actuating shaft off the cylinder until you have read all the 'gotchas' about supporting the shaft and the fact that the threading is reversed, etc.
Lots of info hereabouts in that regard!
Honing: Gentle Scotchbrite pad seems to be the recommended procedure. That coating/plating is thin, but hard. However it does need a little de-glazing to get the rings to seat.
There I am all wordy AGAIN.
Sorry!
Posted: 11:43 am Nov 02 2007
Got it, thanks.
I have read and reread about the KIPS shaft, i'll probably still break it though
I have read and reread about the KIPS shaft, i'll probably still break it though
Posted: 04:15 pm Nov 02 2007
A little heating with a propane torch will loosen the loctite used by the factory on that LH nut.
Posted: 06:59 pm Nov 02 2007
Cleoent - Since you're gonna replace the piston, take the opportunity to replace the stock reeds with some power reeds ($30). Gives you a little more snap. And when you get her going again get the jetting dialed in.
But the RB mods others have brought up are something to certainly consider in the future (the nearer the better) and will bring about quite a "step change" in the motor's performance. Both the head mod and carb mod will not only give you power throughout but will extend that top end. It'll be like riding a different bike.
But the RB mods others have brought up are something to certainly consider in the future (the nearer the better) and will bring about quite a "step change" in the motor's performance. Both the head mod and carb mod will not only give you power throughout but will extend that top end. It'll be like riding a different bike.