typical clutch problem?

gem · Post by **gem** » 07:36 am Sep 24 2007

Yesterday was going to be a glorious day for my son and I for the weather was awseome and he was going to make the jump from KX100 to my KDX220 (2001, my first bike ). The night before I put it back together( after winterizing it the year before) and I was pumped because it fired up on the FIRST kick!!! Well That joy vanished quickly because when I would drop it into gear it would go klunck and the engine would shut off. The clutch lever had no effect, I could not slowly feather in the power. I could see the cable moving on top of the clutch cover. I did this reapetedly hoping the plates would loosen up/break free but it didn't work.
I am wondering if I should order the clutck kit from Rocky Mountain figuering it is an obvious case of stuck /rusted plates. The clutch has never been serviced since I have owned this bike so it is due. Hopefully I can handle the clutch repair. Sorry if this post is a digressive rambling, at the very least it is great to have the KDX back in action and since we are woods riders I really think my son will appreciate being able to crawl around just off of idle instead of the lightswitch powerband of the KX

m0rie · Post by **m0rie** » 12:36 pm Sep 24 2007

Having had the same thing happen to me, i'll bet your plates are stuck together. If nothing else try pulling the side cover off and remove the plates from the basket, seperate them and soak them in some fresh oil overnight and see if that helps. You can check the thickness of the plates and the spec on the springs while it is apart as well.

kawagumby · Post by **kawagumby** » 03:01 pm Sep 24 2007

You might try to rock the bike for and aft, clutch lever pulled (with maximum adjustment) with it in gear with the engine off. Sometimes that'll work. Chances are that there are some areas that have just dried out above the oil.

gem · Post by **gem** » 09:39 pm Sep 30 2007

Since this is the original clutch I have just decided to replace it. I am hoping to buy a new clutch kit, (any suggestions as to where I should go and what type of kit I should get? and should I get a basket also?) undo the clutch cable, take off the clutch cover, back out the screws and springs, pull the plates off, put new ones on new springs and away we go. I am wondering about wether or not this stack of clutch plates will be siezed to the crank or whatever, since the plates are siezed will that mean other problems? Should I stand the bike up then pull it upside down so that oil will hit all of the dry spots? Help !!!

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 10:04 pm Sep 30 2007

I've had this problem several times.

I would not buy a new clutch kit just yet. First, try this; take the bike to the top of a hill or slope. Anything where the bike can roll. It doesn't need to be steep. Start the bike, hop on it and coast. While coasting, pull in the clutch and kick it into 2nd gear. Now, while working the clutch, snap the throttle and release the clutch over and over. Sooner or later, those clutch plates will break loose. My bike did this any time I left it sitting for more than a few weeks. The longer it sat, the longer it took to get the plates to free up.

Another thing; if you have your mind set on replacing clutch parts, take yours apart before buying anything. Measure and inspect and I'll bet you will find that the parts are all within specs.

Again, I think the only problem is that the plates got stuck together and they will come loose of their own accord if you use the bike's power to break them loose. Just use the bike's engine power and the clutch lever. It will start working again.

Colorado Mike · Post by **Colorado Mike** » 10:15 pm Sep 30 2007

I'm not sure I follow your last post. Well, actually I'm sure that I don't follow your last post.

The manual will tell you what the wear limit is on the clutch friction and steel plates. Check for warpage too. You might be surprised to find the things are well withing spec if you're easy on clutches. Anyway, like Morie said, I would just take the clutch apart, and figure out why it stuck. Make sure no coolant got in there and rusted stuff. Check the basket fingers for grooves, and file them if they need it.

If you end up replacing the friction plates, remember to soak them overnight before installing.

Colorado Mike · Post by **Colorado Mike** » 10:18 pm Sep 30 2007

huh,, can't believe it took me 25 minutes to type that.. didn't see Jerry's post. something weird is going on, musta got a subconcious trip in the mother ship.

gem · Post by **gem** » 11:05 pm Sep 30 2007

Well I am afraid I don't have the skills nor the tools to measurs things as a machine shop guy would and I must reiterate that the clutch lever has no effect what so ever. I have rolled this bike down my blacktop driveway( while it idles perfectly) several times and kicked it into second and KLUNCK it stops running. This evening I layed the bike on both sides hoping to get some oil on the entire clutch assembly. I am thinking that because of it's 8 months rest on a bike stand and the clutch being almost 6 yrs old that I should simply get the neccesary parts and just be done with it! Thanks

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 11:29 pm Sep 30 2007

If it was just stuck clutch plates, it would not just KLUNK and stop running. It would be like a broken clutch cable and run without being able to stop without stalling.

Try to bump start it in 3rd or 4th on your driveway. If it still won't go and just locks up and stops running, then there is something broken in there.

I've got a sense that if you don't think you have the skills to measure the warp of a clutch plate, then you are going to find changing out a clutch beyond your skill level. Read the manual, buy a feeler gauge and if you can get the clutch apart, see if you can't figure out how to measure their warp, or lack thereof. For me, it is much more difficult to get the clutch apart in the first place.

Maybe it's not the clutch at all. May be there's something in the tranny.

gem · Post by **gem** » 05:57 am Oct 01 2007

It is puzzling 'cause the bike was fine when I put it last put it away

gem · Post by **gem** » 06:18 am Oct 02 2007

I have taken off the clutch cover removed the springs but that main nut is causing me problems, any tips for taking it off?

skipro3 · Post by **skipro3** » 07:46 am Oct 02 2007

I have a thread in here somewhere about removing the clutch in order to install an auto-clutch. It tells how to remove the nut. I'll link to it, but see if you can do a search first and find it. In the meantime, what you need to do is lock up the transmission assy. I used a large bar that traveled through the rear sprocket and across the swingarm so the motor couldn't move while I loosened the nut. Using an air impact driver will help tremendously.

Jeb · Post by **Jeb** » 10:00 am Oct 02 2007

Put her in gear, depress back brake (hard), and then try it. It helps to have someone to help get the bike to hold still and lock the back wheel . . .

I did it by myself recently and had to get the bike in the corner of the garage so it wouldn't move . . .

keep at it, you'll get it, just try not to muck up the nut!

Colorado Mike · Post by **Colorado Mike** » 09:41 pm Oct 02 2007

put a hunk of oak between the chain and sprocket.

KarlP · Post by **KarlP** » 07:47 am Oct 03 2007

I've used the oak between chain and sprocket method. It worked.
I used a chisel once, too. Busted teeth off the front sprocket.

That big nut holds the clutch basket on. Why remove it? It seems your problem lies with the discs and plates. How'd they look?
Having removed the springs, the plates all slide out, don't they?

gem · Post by **gem** » 05:56 pm Oct 04 2007

Thanks for your help, but I wimped out and took it to a shop.

GS · Post by GS » 11:24 pm Oct 04 2007

OK Gem.....But now, can you tell us what the shop found?

I'm betting the plates are fine....but I'm not betting very much :)

Jeb · Post by **Jeb** » 06:50 am Oct 05 2007

KarlP wrote:Having removed the springs, the plates all slide out, don't they?

For the benefit of anyone reading that hasn't taken the clutch apart - no, the plates don't slide out without removing the nut. The nut secures the pressure plate to the hub, and the pressure plate secures the stack of friction and steel plates into the hub . . .

can't say I wish what you asked were true, that nut is a pain.

Post by **fuzzy** » 09:29 am Oct 05 2007

You need an impact gun or at least a manual impact driver, and a proper fitting socket....God bless you if you round the edges of that nut off. A long pipe will work as well, but I wouldn't risk breaking the output shaft with the lateral force of using a pipe.

Jeb, I believe you are incorrect. I looked in skipro's gallery to double-check as I've never seen a bike clutch where the output-shaft retaining nut held anything else on but the basket. The assembly of pretty much ALL bikes from the output-shaft out goes: Thrust bearing, basket, thrust bearing, hub/plate, retaining nut, friction discs, plate, springs w/ retaining bolts.

Here is a pic of the nut removal from skipro's gallery....showing the discs removed without the nut being removed:

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/modules. ... _photo.php

Jeb · Post by **Jeb** » 10:08 am Oct 05 2007

Fuzzy, I think that pic is part of Ski's autoclutch or his KX250 . . .

Here's a KDX clutch diagram. Note the clutch hub (the online manual calls this the "pressure plate"), part number 13087, and notice the lip at the end where you can normally pull plates out of clutches from other bikes. That keeps the plates from being pulled out of the basket until the clutch hub is removed . . . which requires removal of the nut.

I just got done foolin' with my clutch a few weeks ago and took a few pics that may help as well:

http://www.kdxrider.net/forums/modules. ... _album.php

KDXRIDER.NET

KDXRIDER.NET

typical clutch problem?

typical clutch problem?

what do you know about replacing this clutch?