Voltage Regulator?

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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

Re: 'I have unplugged the black and yellow wires at the connectors right by the air box and from the yellow wire that goes to the coil to any bolt I get 12ohms.'

Let's stick with this one thing..this one sentence..these wires.

'..black and yellow wires..' You mean two wires?

'..AND from the yellow wire...to the coil'

See the problem? The words say you unplugged two wires at their respective connectors AND unplugged them from the yellow wire...

Whatever happened, I'm sure that's NOT what happened.

I don't have my manual in front of me..but I recall the wires going to the OEM regulator are striped..and one of them is black/yellow (one wire, two colors). That adds some puzzlement. I'll check into that when I get my hands back on my manual.

You have a manual, or not? If not, PM me a fax number, and I will send you a schiz.

Please...put the wires back as they were except for the ONE yellow wire at the airbox. Leave it disconnected.

1. That yellow wire connector at that spot has male and female ends. Which end are you looking at with your meter?

2. Is the headlight good, is it plugged in, is the light switch off?

For now.. if you change from that, say so..otherwise, keep it that way: known good light, plugged in (grounded on one side), switch off.

Measure from EACH of the female/yellow to ground and the male/yellow to ground.

What do you get? Specify the connection with the ohm reading you get.




Re: ' I have not had the cover off yet because I don't have a flywheel puller but it looks like I might need one.'

Yes, you do. About $12. Same puller is used on some Yamaha models, so a KAW or YAM dealer should have it. Usually a MotionPro tool..and MP racks are generally standalones in a lot of dealerships. If you aren't familiar with the use of it...ask, or find out. Already said (somewhere up there...) but an impact tool (not manual...electric, battery operated or pneumatic) makes the removal simple. Otherwise it can be a pain.



Note: 'Leads' are what are plugged into a meter...not 'wires'. One lead is red, one is black. You can connect meter leads TO wires, but you don't connect wires to a meter.

Gotta be 'pacific'! (thassa joke...)

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DMrides220
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Post by DMrides220 »

Problem solved! It turns out that one of the connectors on the red wire had come partially disconnected. When I started to unhook everything I found out it was loose and the connector was all black and shitty. I cleaned it and pushed it back together now I love my bike again!

Thanks again for all of the help. I certainly learned a few things!

Now that I ordered a flywheel puller and don't really need it I might as well use it. So where is the best place to get a better lighting coil? And then what is the best headlight to get?

I can't wait to go night riding again!!!
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canyncarvr
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Post by canyncarvr »

Good deal! Glad you kept after it.

Not a bad idea to use some sort of grease on wire connections..


Best place for a lighting coil? That is somewhat of a long story..people that used to make 'em don't and such.

My $.02..ask FRP (Fredette). I don't recall if they had any more Electrex coils or not.

Ricky Stator (rickystator.com) would be a logical place to ask. They don't list a lighting coil for the 'H' model on their website. I wouldn't take that to mean they don't have one.

'Best headlight' is a matter of preference. I use a UFO twin..it's held up well. Note you're not going to be running a couple of 35W bulbs and a taillight with a commonly used aftermarket coil. You might consider an LED tail to help conserve power. Personally, I've not found an LED replacement that will hold up to the abuse. I've tried a couple...they end up in little pieces.

Something to keep in mind...if you get an aftermarket twin the straps may well be made to fit a USD fork..and if they are, they will be too big to strap onto the conventional KDX forks without some jerry-rigging. Maybe ask before you buy if you have the choice of conventional or USD straps...

Happy trails!

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