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how do you know for sure if the power valve is sticking without removing the top end?

there Is a plug that I removed from the left side of the engine, just below the head. (left side if you are setting on the bike)

I started up the engine and rev'd it up and I can see the shaft moving, but the bike has no bottom end.

Does the part that strips off when the valves stick actually connected to the valves?

Is there any adjustment to the valves?

To me it seams like the shaft is moving to soon in the rpm range.

The bike screams up top, from about mid range on, but anything below that and its a turd. I even have to rev the crap out of it to get it rolling in 1st gear.

any ideas?

here is my list of mods and jetting specs.

no airbox lid.
fmf woods pipe and silencer

42 pilot 160 main.

Too big main.... little pilot.

Start with a 155 main if this is a 200.

yeah its a 200, ok I will try that. what pilot should I use?

that was what was in the bike when I got it last week.

I usually start at a 155/45 combo... but usually end up at 152 /42... just depends on the weather. A 155/45 is always safe... I go down one on each usually in the hot summer months and back up when it gets cooler.

Might want to check the condition of your reeds too... get some Boysen Power Reeds, or a DFIII reeds/cage combo if you got some money.... but I think someone has a DFIII for sale in the For sale section....

*EDIT* They sold it ....sorry.

Probably by the way...but to answer your questions:


1. Does the part that strips off when the valves stick actually connected to the valves?

Yes.

2. Is there any adjustment to the valves?

No. There is a timing situation, but no adjustment per se.

3. To me it seams like the shaft is moving to soon in the rpm range.

What RPM do you expect? The specified range is 6000RPM. While that may be a screaming meemee V-8, it's not a lot in a small bore engine. It won't sound like it's about ready to blow up or anything.